68 Cadillac MM Combo (Restore thread)

You need to have the hoses clamped, and the best clamps for this are the type that you squeeze the two ears together to spread it. They are made of flat spring steel. To get the hose onto the nipples without difficulty, use some lubricant, such as KY jelly or silicone spray. Do not use oil, since it will deteriorate the rubber. Once clamped over the bump at the end of the nipple, it won't come off.
The best wire connections are those that are soldered together after crimping, and the solder and terminal need to be hot enough that it flows, and isn't what is called a cold solder joint. Check youtube for videos of how to do this.
 
Paul Steinberg said:
You need to have the hoses clamped, and the best clamps for this are the type that you squeeze the two ears together to spread it. They are made of flat spring steel. To get the hose onto the nipples without difficulty, use some lubricant, such as KY jelly or silicone spray. Do not use oil, since it will deteriorate the rubber. Once clamped over the bump at the end of the nipple, it won't come off.
The best wire connections are those that are soldered together after crimping, and the solder and terminal need to be hot enough that it flows, and isn't what is called a cold solder joint. Check youtube for videos of how to do this.
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Yeah this return like has one of those style clamps on it already. I spent long time trying to get my needle-nose down there to squeeze those ears enough to move it, never could get it to into the tight space between the two hoses.

This morning I took one of the screw type hose clamps and was able to get it on farther down the line where its easier to access, and pushed it all the way down the line to where it needs to be. Only to realize I did it backwards (screw facing away from me). So I will need to redo that tonight and attempt to tighten it.
 
You MUST get that line secured the danger of it coming off and fire is real. I don't share Pauls like for spring clamps. There are special pliers to install the spring clamps makes the job way easier. My vote goes with stainless gear drive clamps with a 1/4 inch -8mm bolt not the kind with a slot screw. they accept a 1/4 inch socket with rachet making it easy to tighten in a tight place. My thoughts keep plugging. For a novice you are doing great!
 
Peter Grave said:
You MUST get that line secured the danger of it coming off and fire is real. I don't share Pauls like for spring clamps. There are special pliers to install the spring clamps makes the job way easier. My vote goes with stainless gear drive clamps with a 1/4 inch -8mm bolt not the kind with a slot screw. they accept a 1/4 inch socket with rachet making it easy to tighten in a tight place. My thoughts keep plugging. For a novice you are doing great!
Click to expand...

Thanks, im trying and certainly learning as I go. Paul's KY idea is something I hadnt thought of too, may possibly give that a try
 
Pete... I was referring to using the flat spring clamp on the smaller line that is the return back to the tank. I don't believe that they make a worm gear clamp that small.
 
Perhaps not I thought they did make them that small. As I said if you have the pliers the jobs not bad but trying to get in the space alotted is no fun with any other tool. I do seem to remember a small one narrower band than the ones you are thinking of with a 1/4 inch nut drive.
 
So to my surprise once i got the lines squared away and tested it on a drive, with this brand new fuel filter witg the return properly secured i am back to the bogging problems. Got it good and hot then took it on the highway. Tries to bog when you give it too much gas or when you try to get to 60.

I have no idea why this is happening. It runs perfect with the old filter that has no return line (minus the vaporlock). Inspected and no leaks. If the return line is clogged would this happen?

Trying to make sense out of this. I am scheduled to be in a parade saturday morning. This filter seems fine at slow speeds, so if i dont figure this out i may use this filter for the parade, and switch to the old one for the car show saturday.
 
And heres the picture of the return line in place. If anyone has any ideas why this brought back the bog please share
 

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Lets start with a couple of assumptions.. You change the filter, and it worked well with the old one, but not with the new one? You immediately assume that it is the filter, however, you have never had any diagnostics done to the car, is that correct? What you are describing to me, indicates a possible problem with the engines electrical system. You previously said that you had the points and condenser replaced, along with the spark plugs. Did they install points that were made in China? If so, you need to reset them every 1500 - 2000 miles (personal experience), since the rubbing block wears, unlike the old Delco Remy points that were good for 10000 miles without checking. Have you ever had the timing chain assessed for wear? With 70,000 miles on the engine, it is a possibility. I had to have mine changed on my 1969 for this very reason. A worn timing chain will effect both timing and valve opening / closing at the proper time. You will need to find a competent mechanic that has knowledge of older engines, and the tools to properly diagnose the engine condition, so you are not replacing parts attempting to fix problems with the shot gun method. You can't just assume that something is defective without first confirming it by proper evaluation. Anything less is wasting money. We are here to help and guide you, however, without putting our hands and eyes on the problem, we, like you are just guessing. We can ask you lots of questions that might help to narrow down the problem, but can't say with certainty that our long distance diagnosis is correct.
If you have the desire to learn, then see if there is a local adult education center that has courses in basic automotive. The second suggestion, would be to go to some local cruise nights, and see if you can strike up a friendship with someone that might be willing to help you with the diagnosis. Carburetor engine basics are the same across all brands of automobiles. Sure it would be best if you were to find someone with Cadillac experience, but that isn't always possible. Also, be ready to help that person with his car, should he need a second pair of hands to do some operation.
 
Thanks, to rule out the filter as the problem first I may swap back the old filter and see if the issue persists. It just seems very suspicious that as soon as a new filter is introduced this problem begins again. Same problem I had in the beginning with my original filter, which was remedied by installing my non-return filter.

If the issue repeats with the old filter I will at least know that the fuel filter is not a factor this time.
 
Paul Steinberg said:
Lets start with a couple of assumptions.. You change the filter, and it worked well with the old one, but not with the new one? You immediately assume that it is the filter, however, you have never had any diagnostics done to the car, is that correct? What you are describing to me, indicates a possible problem with the engines electrical system. You previously said that you had the points and condenser replaced, along with the spark plugs. Did they install points that were made in China? If so, you need to reset them every 1500 - 2000 miles (personal experience), since the rubbing block wears, unlike the old Delco Remy points that were good for 10000 miles without checking. Have you ever had the timing chain assessed for wear? With 70,000 miles on the engine, it is a possibility. I had to have mine changed on my 1969 for this very reason. A worn timing chain will effect both timing and valve opening / closing at the proper time. You will need to find a competent mechanic that has knowledge of older engines, and the tools to properly diagnose the engine condition, so you are not replacing parts attempting to fix problems with the shot gun method. You can't just assume that something is defective without first confirming it by proper evaluation. Anything less is wasting money. We are here to help and guide you, however, without putting our hands and eyes on the problem, we, like you are just guessing. We can ask you lots of questions that might help to narrow down the problem, but can't say with certainty that our long distance diagnosis is correct.
If you have the desire to learn, then see if there is a local adult education center that has courses in basic automotive. The second suggestion, would be to go to some local cruise nights, and see if you can strike up a friendship with someone that might be willing to help you with the diagnosis. Carburetor engine basics are the same across all brands of automobiles. Sure it would be best if you were to find someone with Cadillac experience, but that isn't always possible. Also, be ready to help that person with his car, should he need a second pair of hands to do some operation.
Click to expand...

And no I havent had timing done and points have not been touched. After I troubleshoot this filter I will see. Like an idiot I threw out the old filter. Luckily it was a $5 filter, so I may go buy another similar filter. If it does work I will compare the size of the inlet/outlets, maybe the small difference could be making all the difference on fuel delivery
 
Richard Vyse said:
Filter, who needs a filter. :eek:
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Yeah at the time I had no reason to think this new one would work worse, so i tossed it. The inlet of the old filter was getting bent though so probably shouldnt have re-used it anyway. Who knows how long that cheap plastic would have held out.
 

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the bog may be just a extension of the vape locking. now with the return line in place it will not stall only not get enough fuel for the full throttle run. this 67 is doing the same thing. it has the glass bowl filter up by the carb. you can look and see if it is full or not it should be full all the time. when I took it off to change that filter it was like I pulled the trigger on the air hose. I could not believe how much presser was in that line. took it out for a run and it pulled the hill at 60 in second gear with out surging but when I got back the bowl was only half full. left it idling while I checked the temp of the engine and it dropped down to 1/4. now it had half a tank of gas in when I put it away last winter. this is still that gas. i'm going to try a can of sea foam and fill it with a good grade of fuel. find one that doesn't have a ETOH blend. hint is if it's one hose it's all 10%
 
John ED Renstrom said:
the bog may be just a extension of the vape locking. now with the return line in place it will not stall only not get enough fuel for the full throttle run. this 67 is doing the same thing. it has the glass bowl filter up by the carb. you can look and see if it is full or not it should be full all the time. when I took it off to change that filter it was like I pulled the trigger on the air hose. I could not believe how much presser was in that line. took it out for a run and it pulled the hill at 60 in second gear with out surging but when I got back the bowl was only half full. left it idling while I checked the temp of the engine and it dropped down to 1/4. now it had half a tank of gas in when I put it away last winter. this is still that gas. i'm going to try a can of sea foam and fill it with a good grade of fuel. find one that doesn't have a ETOH blend. hint is if it's one hose it's all 10%
Click to expand...

When first starting, and backing out of the driveway, as soon as I put it in drive, the moment I would hit the gas it would stall. Started about 4 times and eventually after revving a bit I was able to get going. After that and after driving a bit it didnt stall anymore, just bogged.
 
Blake Sherwin said:
When first starting, and backing out of the driveway, as soon as I put it in drive, the moment I would hit the gas it would stall. Started about 4 times and eventually after revving a bit I was able to get going. After that and after driving a bit it didnt stall anymore, just bogged.
Click to expand...

To me, it sounds more like a carburetor choke problem than anything else. Also, if the timing is retarded, you will get the same type of throttle response as you have described.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
the bog may be just a extension of the vape locking. now with the return line in place it will not stall only not get enough fuel for the full throttle run. this 67 is doing the same thing. it has the glass bowl filter up by the carb. you can look and see if it is full or not it should be full all the time. when I took it off to change that filter it was like I pulled the trigger on the air hose. I could not believe how much presser was in that line. took it out for a run and it pulled the hill at 60 in second gear with out surging but when I got back the bowl was only half full. left it idling while I checked the temp of the engine and it dropped down to 1/4. now it had half a tank of gas in when I put it away last winter. this is still that gas. i'm going to try a can of sea foam and fill it with a good grade of fuel. find one that doesn't have a ETOH blend. hint is if it's one hose it's all 10%
Click to expand...

Ed.. the glass fuel filter bowl on my 1962 Chevrolet never appears to be full, but the car never runs out of fuel until the fuel tank is empty.
 
One more question. I was reading elsewhere on the internet that the return line should be positioned higher than the line out to the carb, in which case the filter would be positioned horizontally longways with the return above the carb line. Is this true for our cars?

The reason I wonder is because ever since I got the vehicle the fuel filter has been positioned vertically with the inlet being on the bottom and the outlet/return both on TOP, which to me seems like the fuel pump would be fighting against gravity to get the fuel up through the filter and into the engine. its possible this is irrelevant but I wanted to mention it in case this is considered a poor setup.

Image I was referencing (from a jeep):

IMG_0885.jpg
 
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