68 Cadillac MM Combo (Restore thread)

you only make that mistake once. Next time use a bush and a coffee can. My guess is the light spots are were the material got absorbed into the top. That paint they used was put on thick over bare metal. It will soak up like a sponge. The rustoliem takes a month to dry. If it doesn't even out by then recoat it. But it is a day and night difference in appearance. Don't worry about the drive way it will ware off.

As soon as I spilled it I ran in asking my wife for a bucket of water. I was looking for something to cut the paint and I grabbed some charcoal lighter fluid (not my safest moment). The paint was already sticky and wouldnt come off. so sprayed some lighter fluid on it and I was able to wipe it away. Later I went and bought another can of acetone and applied it indirectly via a terry towel and was able to get the rest of the paint smears/smudges off.

So I saved her paint. Now I just have to get her rim clean.
 
My wife Sandy dropped a can of water based paint in the driveway, and came inside to tell me about it. I immediately poured clay kitty litter onto it, and around it to keep it from spreading. Using my rubber gloved hand, I pushed the kitty litter into the paint to absorb it, and then scooped it up with a broom and dust pan, and put the kitty litter into plastic bags, so to contain it. Then I poured dishwashing liquid onto the remaining paint spot, added a little water, and finally washed the mess off the driveway. Retreated with the dishwashing liquid and one more scrubbing, and most of it was gone. When it rained the following week, the rain removed the remaining traces of the paint. The important thing to do is to clean it up before it dries, because once dried, it is next to impossible to remove. You just have to wait for it to wear off, or go over the entire driveway with driveway sealer to camouflage it.

PS... you top looks great! :thumbsup:
 
PS... you top looks great! :thumbsup:

Thanks!

I also developed a tapping sound from the engine and I need to trace that. I have a feeling its steering related as it seems to happen more when the wheel is turned. I am hoping to have some time here soon to idle and listen to track down exactly where its coming from.

Although it seems more pronounced when im turning the wheel I DID open the hood for a moment Friday and noticed that if I place my hand on the top of the engine and apply pressure the tapping seems to stop, so the sound could be connected to the shaking of the engine.

I am not driving it around until I at least figure out what the sound is and if it poses a hazard. I will post when I have more information. If all else fails and I cannot tell anything I can record a video as well. I have my first local meet in weeks so hopefully I can figure out what this is and determine if its safe to drive or not.
 
Sounds like a loose air cleaner. Also, with the engine off, check the fan and water pump, by grabbing each side of the fan blade, and try rocking it up and down, and side to side. Then look for a loose fan belt pulley.
 
Sounds like a loose air cleaner. Also, with the engine off, check the fan and water pump, by grabbing each side of the fan blade, and try rocking it up and down, and side to side. Then look for a loose fan belt pulley.

I will take a look. The sound seems to be coming from the rear end of the engine, when I followed the sound yesterday I could tell it was coming from the back but I couldnt see anything back there that should be making noise. One person suggested that the oil pan could be bouncing on top of the steering, and that the "center link" is about an inch from it.

Thats also on my list to check, if chubby me can get under there enough without a jack to see.
 
It could be sway bar bushings, or even upper control arm bushings. If you haven't had the front end professionally inspected for loose or worn parts you should. Even check the lug nuts for tightness. Since the brakes were worked on, you have no idea how sloppy they were in their work, based on what you have previously posted. Time to give the car a through inspection, as if your life depended on it! Enough said.......... :Exclamation:
 
Thats not a bad idea at all. There is one shop in my town that will work on classics. Have not been down there yet. May see if they can inspect it for me, and while they are at it check those mounts.

I'm told all i need to do it myself other than the parts is a floor jack. I've never used a floor jack, so my main concern is if its safe to use on an inclined driveway, since I dont really have a flat surface available to me.

I'd like to do it myself if I can, but I'd also like to avoid being crushed to death
 
Exhaust pipe is from manifold to muffler; tailpipe is aft of the muffler.

Thanks, I have scheduled to have the mounts looked at and quoted only this Friday. No work will be done, but will find out for sure if mounts are bad and what it would cost if I were to have someone do this. My wife has told me no to jacking it up myself given my tendency for clumsy mistakes.

I appreciate the pointers and I will report back.
 
You cannot jack up a car on an inclined driveway safely. It needs to be flat and level, and you also need jack stands to support the car, once you have it up to the height that you want for working under the car. If you don't heed this advise, and the car falls on you, it will squash you like a bug. Don't make your next ride in your hearse, your last... :eek:
 
I chanced upon the cause today and its fixed now. So the sound was caused by my AC relay switch. It doesnt work and i had previously unplugged it. However the connector had managed to shimmy its way back onto the contact barely, so as the engine shook it intermittently contacted and clicked.

I have a video uploading now, because this is something i couldnt find on youtube, and i hope the video will help someone else diagnose in the future. I will post it later just for posterity
 
If you listen to your video it is not a steady sound. That sounds more like a exhaust rattle to me. But I'm not.sitting in the car.

If your blower motor is not working. There can be a number of reasons for that. Once again the service Manuel is your best friend to repair it. But simple test help. Unplug the wire on the motor. Use a jumper wire from the plus side of the battery to the terminal. If it runs plug it back in. Then make sure that there is power to the switch. And power going out of the switch. Your test light is your buddy here. You know that the motor is good and the switch is good. Then it's just two relays,a resister pack and a thermal delay from working. One hint is if it doesn't work on the high or low side it's usaly on one end or yhe other of the circuit not in the middle.
 
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