Warm up transmission

Ed you jogged my memory I have seen what you showed many years ago. If I remember the connector was melted the same way. The issue was the connector was a little loose on the blade on the switch this made a slightly loose (read that resistive connection)to the switch this makes heat heat increases the resistance and makes more heat. The next step is meltdown. The mistake is GMs the load is too heavy for the type connector used sort of like trying to run your air conditioner and tv off the Harbor Freight free extention cord. I think Blake could take the bottom cover off the steering column and look up and see the back of the switch (with a light) and check for melt damage. One thing is for sure with the cost of a new switch you need to be very sure thats the problem. The problem could be the plug not the switch. Remember the following year GM went to the locking column switch and I do not remember any trouble with them
 
Nor trouble with the 64 and down they used the stud and bolt. As i recall this wire bundle was out of the 68 i had. i got the switch out of the yard and did the replace the conductors thing Bill still ended up replacing the switch shortly after getting the car.

But fore my experience you better off going the aftermarket rout if you want to drive the car. No since replacing a damaged weak link with a new one. Just be sure you solder the connectors after you crimp them on.
 
I appreciate the information. Once I check into this possible fuel problem I will do as Peter mentioned and look at the steering column. If it does seem to be the problem maybe I can take it out and take it to O'reillys and see what kind of similar aftermarket ones I can find.
 
Well I never did change that fuel filter. Tried over this past weekend but someone has put some sort of glue on the nut attaching the metal fuel line to the carburetor. Could not get that thing off no matter how hard I tried. I did drive it though and it drove perfectly fine.

Will have to try this again soon, the fuel line is positioned right up against where the timing belt starts so theres about an inch of room to fit a wrench in there, making it quite a difficult thing to get at.

Makes me wonder if when the shop that put this carburetor in told me "we had to use a few parts off the old carburetor" maybe they meant this glued piece because they couldnt get it off. I dont know

But whether they re-used the part or put the glue on themselves, I'm still a little annoyed about it.
 
The fuel lines can be s wrestling match. You will have to remove a few things to replace that filter. But think about it you drove it again with no problems. Fuel problems vary seldom are intermediate. You may have knocked a few big pieces down off the filter to get fuel flowing enough to run it. But i never got that luckly.

To change that one you will most likely need to pull the belts and the shroud at least. One can remove the line from the fuel pump and the carb and possibly work it down enough to remove it. But once you bend a steel line it's a fight.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
The fuel lines can be s wrestling match. You will have to remove a few things to replace that filter. But think about it you drove it again with no problems. Fuel problems vary seldom are intermediate. You may have knocked a few big pieces down off the filter to get fuel flowing enough to run it. But i never got that luckly.

To change that one you will most likely need to pull the belts and the shroud at least. One can remove the line from the fuel pump and the carb and possibly work it down enough to remove it. But once you bend a steel line it's a fight.
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Thats one thing that worries me, everyone tells me NOT to touch the timing belt unless I know what im doing, so im a little hesitant to take that off.

I need to change my oil after that seafoam, I changed it in January but its now almost solid black. So I am considering getting oil done and asking for an estimate on replacing the filter if I supply the part.

Then again if they are going to be removing stuff it will likely be more than I want to pay in any case. I want to do it myself but im also worried im going to screw something up even more by removing the timing belt
 
68

This does not have a timing belt are you refereeing to the fan belt? If you have not gotten one a factory shop is invaluable for working on the vehicle.
 
I had no idea about it not having a timing belt. I had just assumed it did. Glad to know that. I still dont have a shop manual yet. I am going to get one here eventually
 
Peter Grave said:
Dude: The 68 Cadillac DOES NOT HAVE A TIMING BELT it has a chain and I have NEVER known a chain to go bad on one.
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my 1969 had a bad chain, and it jumped 2 teeth before I got to fixing it. The first tooth, just made it run bad. The second time it barely ran at all. Started great, but just no power. New timing chain and gears fixed the problem. Also had to remove the heads because of bad exhaust leak and manifold bolts breaking.
 
68 is the only one that has that filter between the pump and the carburetor. and as I recall at the time I had that 68 the only filter I could get was a none AC one. the AC one had a return line going from it, the non AC one did not. just glanced threw my pictures of it and I don't have one of that set up . I'm recalling I blew it out and added a inline one in the jumper from the fuel line to the fuel pump. the 69 did not use it either as we replace all the lined on it. 68 was the first year for the 472 and has a few things different then the other years.

did you get that shop Manuel off e-bay yet? that will give you step by step direction on how to do things.
 
I believe the mystery is solved. I polled some friends and most of them said this is thread tape/teflon tape
 

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So your thinking of changing the filter off the new carburetor,which would have had a new filter on it. Don't mess with that. Vary easy to have problems.
The 68 should have a inline filter just above the fuel pump it was the only year the did that. Trace that fuel line to were it goes down in front of the engine. Some were just under the power steering pump there should be a canister in the fuel line. If it not there some one has removed it all ready. As i said they are an discontinued item. Then keep tracing the line back to see if they put a aftermarket one inline. Normal place to splice it in would be the rubber jumpers. At the tank to the frame the frame to the engine.

Leave that new carburetor alone it looks to me like they glued the first fitting on it. That is the point were you can destroy your investment in a hurry.
 
Thanks, will try tracing the line this weekend. Another goal of mine is to use up all the ethanol gas and try putting non-ethanol gas to see if it shows any improvements. I know ethanol gas has a shorter shelf life, so its possible i still have some bad gas mixed in since this wasnt drive often previously
 
Well yesterday i drove my 4 year old son to the park and back. It sat a few hours at home and i went to start it and it started rough and hisses and whined loud then died.

Turns over real good just never fires up, but sometimes tries to fire up.

Im guessing the hiss was a vacuum leak so im going to look for hose breaks today
 
Sounds like a jumped timing chain to me. Take out the left front spark plug, and with the assistance of a helper, put a socket and breaker bar on the crankshaft pullet. Have the helper pull the breaker bar towards the right, while you observe the timing mark. When you see it coming up to the "0" mark, hold your finger over the spark plug hole. You should hear or feel the air pressure. Then when it gets to the "0", remove the distributor cap and push the breaker bar toward the drivers side. Observe if the rotor tip moves. If it doesn't move immediately, then that indicates a worn timing chain. Then when it does move, go in the opposite direction to see if it takes a few degrees of pulling, before the rotor moves again. This will indicate the amount of looseness that there is in the chain. I had to replace mine at about 75,000 miles. Worn timing chains are what causes the crankshaft and the camshaft to move out of sync, when the chain jumps a tooth. This requires the services of a professional to repair.
 
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