Warm up transmission

Well it drove great for awhile. Drove it to work today and almost didnt make it.

About the time I got into Tulsa the hesitation/cutting came back worse than ever. Drives fine until about 15 or 20mph if I feather it. Try to go past that though and it fights.

I'm not sure I will be able to make it home from work today, unless I can work a miracle during my lunch hour. We will see.
 
the fuel filter would be more of a constant problem. but I would not hurt to change it and see if there was any rust coming out of the suction side. the cutting out at a consent rpm under load maybe electrical. you haven't said anything about the condition of the cap, rotor or points. I could not tell if it was back firing or not. but a bad wire connection will do it also. a vibration could wiggle it. one way to test that would be to run a jumper wire from the positive battery post to the ignition side of the coil the drive it and see if it stops. this set of cars are known for problems with the switch.
 
Years ago i drove an 88 dakota that would stall completely sometimes when i would hit the gas. It was injected though. If i recall it was an ignition coil or something that was severed.

This issue is a bit similar but not quite the same.
 
Feeding 12 volts to the ignition coil for more than a minute or two, will burn the points, leading to them failing. That should only be done to determine if there is a problem with wiring. I am betting on the problem being a clogged fuel filter sock on the pick up tube. Problem is that most times you need to drop the tank to check / replace it. On the Miller Meteors, some have a access panel under the rear compartment that allows access. It can also be a clogged fuel line, and if you want to check this, remove the line from the tank, and at the fuel pump, and blow high pressure air from the rear of the car to the front. One other possibility, is that either or both of the rubber lines from the tank to the fuel pump, might be failing from old age. They are easy to change, and relatively inexpensive. If the clamps are old and tired, buy new clamps also.
 
I dont have access to high pressure air at the moment, but I may be able to ask some friends.

Whats strange to me is that replacing and/or cleaning my spark plugs seems to remedy the issue for a day or two, which seems odd if its fuel related. But it does make sense if its fuel related, especially if it got worse after seafoam.

I ended up having it towed home last night. Wasnt about to try driving it home in freezing rain when all I can do is sputter along. After the tow truck dropped me down into the street I got in to pull it into the driveway and the thing wouldnt turn over. I thought "are you kidding me?"

Lights on dash would come on and battery gauge was showing fully charged, but turned the key and nothing happened. We put it in neutral and pushed it back, then tried to push forward (in neutral) but it wouldnt push forward, almost like it was in gear still.

I got in at that point and turned the key and it started right up. And I cringed as I drove it up into my driveway after cold starting, It whined all the way up.
 
Wait for warmer weather, and then go through all the systems methodically, until you know it is going to be a reliable car. Paying for unnecessary towing services, could go a long way to fixing the problems.
 
Thankfully several weeks ago I signed up for AAA, so I used up one of my 4 free tows this year. My wife told me im no longer allowed to take my toys to work
 
You problem is the switch is bad. Not the tumbler but the switch its self. They are a bake o lit cri ped onto a pot metal housing. The pot metal looses its tension after awhile this lets the contacts arc. This give you these intermittent problems. I can think of a 68 that went threw about 3 of us before the problem was found and fixed now the forth owner is happy as a clam with it.
You can't gind a factory switch any more. You will have to go with a aftermarket one.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
You problem is the switch is bad. Not the tumbler but the switch its self. They are a bake o lit cri ped onto a pot metal housing. The pot metal looses its tension after awhile this lets the contacts arc. This give you these intermittent problems. I can think of a 68 that went threw about 3 of us before the problem was found and fixed now the forth owner is happy as a clam with it.
You can't gind a factory switch any more. You will have to go with a aftermarket one.
Click to expand...

Would I be looking for something like this? An ignition switch?

https://www.carid.com/american-auto...c4HuT1iakOPX-7N-4-sn172sCp6Si2PYaAl11EALw_wcB
 
Avoid the universal one if you can its installation is way beyond your skills. I just checked ebay and nothing there; I have a 68 Sedan Deville in the yard. I will have to check it. It will be a couple of days as its raining here and swampy where the car is standby/
 
Just did some checking this switch must be troublesome as its rare and expensive on the parts market. Perhaps someone else on this site knows of one as I said I will check the one I have. Problem here is your original switch plugs in with a large multi wire plug. The universal being offered has lugs so all your switch wires would have to be cut from plug matched up to correct lug on aftermarket switch and lugs installed on each wire. NOT A FUN JOB. Oh yeah also it appears a 1967 switch is different.
 
Switch

Here ya go . Ouch :eek::eek:

Nos Gm Delco Cadillac Ignition Switch 1968 Original Eldorado Oem New Rare 68 on 2040-parts.com
US $465.00

Up for sale is a new old stock, GM Cadillac ignition switch. It is in excellent, unused new old stock condition and is complete with the original GM box! The GM part number is 1116701, please do your homework on the part number and your application. This is correct for all 1968 Cadillac models. These are getting hard to find, especially in such nice, NOS condition.
 
Although I don't believe that it is an ignition switch problem, and that you should properly diagnose the problem, rather than throwing $$$$ and parts at it hoping that you will resolve the problem.
Here are the pictures of the ignition switch.
 

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Thanks, its good to know what im looking for if I need one. I need to address my fuel lines first anyways. I'll check my filter first and see where that leads me.
 
I got about a year doing that with one Tony did it first It took Bill about 8 months to brake down and chang the switch so Gorge could have a car that would run and start. You want to test it. Run a hot wire from the battery to a line drop resister the to the switched side of the coil. Drive the car. It runs good you found it. A used switch like the one i have on the wall might or might not work any better. The new old one the same. The problem is the back gets lose from the housing and once you burn the contacts it's toast.
 
OK here is the problem with the switches. you can see off this harness were the arcing had gotten so bad that it melted the wire holder. it is also the accessory wire that had the melt down. I don't remember what the holder is of from it was this switch just put it on here for protection.

the problem is they held the rear fixed contacts on to the housing with the 3 folds of the base metal. one or two will get loose over time. opening up the gap.

causing the current to jump the gap. the wider it gets the hotter it gets. till things burn up. now of course this can accrue anywhere between the switch and the points so all those wire ends and connections should be checked also. but in a 68 my money is on the switch. this one came out of a 67 car. not sure it's the same as the 68 and I have no idea if it is any good.

you ever heard the expression don't stand near the high wall
 

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