Thanks, next payday i may get a bigger vise wrench and a 6 point socket. I sprayed some more PB on it this morning before work, didnt try to turn it, just sprayed some to soak while im at work. I may hold off on deep creep, since I already spent money on PB, i may as well use it.
68 Cadillac MM Combo (Restore thread)
- Thread starter Blake Sherwin
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Thanks, next payday i may get a bigger vise wrench and a 6 point socket. I sprayed some more PB on it this morning before work, didnt try to turn it, just sprayed some to soak while im at work. I may hold off on deep creep, since I already spent money on PB, i may as well use it.
Well actually now that I look into it, it looks like what I have is Locking pliers. So maybe thats part of my problem
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
Are you trying to get the line off the master cylinder or out of the junction block on the frame?
You are not going to use that line again as it will be to short if you cut it back and re flair it. Lines are fairly cheap and you can get them in the proper lenght.
You are not going to use that line again as it will be to short if you cut it back and re flair it. Lines are fairly cheap and you can get them in the proper lenght.
I'm trying to get the other end of the broken line off the junction block, its not on the frame though, its suspended, held up by the lines that connect to it it seems.
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
Do as Peter said. Cut it short put a socket on it hold the block with the locking pliers. The way to brake it lose is position the ratchet handle and the pliers about 2 inches apart and squeeze the two of them togather. All you need to do is get a quarter turn on it. You will double your power that way and you can use both hands to squeeze it.
I didnt get to do much this past weekend. I did get out there and try to move it each day and put some PB Blaster on before stopping. No sign of budging yet. I havent cut the line yet, but I'm probably going to cut it Wednesday.
I did find a slightly larger pair of vice grips with rubber grips over the weekend that I forgot we had. So Wednesday I may try using the bigger pair of grips to clamp the smaller one on tight and give that one more try.
If all else fails, I have considered checking if all the other lines on the block can loosen, if so then I could remove all the lines, and remove the junction block itself so I can get at it a bit easier, then maybe I can have better success with more leverage. I havent started the engine in 2 weeks now, so I need to get out there and start it again. I dont like letting it sit
I did find a slightly larger pair of vice grips with rubber grips over the weekend that I forgot we had. So Wednesday I may try using the bigger pair of grips to clamp the smaller one on tight and give that one more try.
If all else fails, I have considered checking if all the other lines on the block can loosen, if so then I could remove all the lines, and remove the junction block itself so I can get at it a bit easier, then maybe I can have better success with more leverage. I havent started the engine in 2 weeks now, so I need to get out there and start it again. I dont like letting it sit
Unless you have some good tools, you are doomed to having problems removing parts. A good quality open end wrench and a good quality box wrench on the tubing nut, holding them the way that Ed has described will lead to success in removing the broken piece. The problem with a Vice Grip Wrench, is that it will crush the tubing nut, and distort the threads, which may make it worse. DO NOT purchase Harbor Freight wrenches in the smaller sizes, since they are extremely poor quality wrenches. They are not machined to close tolerances, and they are made of inferior metal. I have seen many examples of them breaking, which in some instances has led to hand injuries, when the hand hits another object in the engine compartment as a result of the wrench slipping or breaking. A good place to find quality tools at a good price is your local pawn broker. I would suggest a tool by Bonney, New Britten, Mac, Snap On, Williams, Cornwall, etc.. All of these were made in the USA out of quality steel. If you think that buying quality tools is expensive, then consider what would happen at your regular job, if you couldn't work because of a hand injury from working on your car.
Here are a few on eBay Mac , Snap On . Use this as a price guide for when you go searching locally. Many pawn shops have high prices, but will negotiate a better price if you make an offer. They don't make any money until they sell the item, and many times they will sell it for a small profit over what they paid just to keep the merchandise moving out the door.
Here are a few on eBay Mac , Snap On . Use this as a price guide for when you go searching locally. Many pawn shops have high prices, but will negotiate a better price if you make an offer. They don't make any money until they sell the item, and many times they will sell it for a small profit over what they paid just to keep the merchandise moving out the door.
A friend came out last night and helped me remove that nut. He ended up taking a socket that was a little too small and hammering it onto the rounded nut. He was then able to loosen it and remove it without damaging the inner threads.
Booster and Master Cylinder are on, I just have to tighten all the nuts. Then all I need to do is bleed the new master, and have him assist me with bleeding all my lines and I am ready to go.
But heres the little guy that gave me so much trouble.
Booster and Master Cylinder are on, I just have to tighten all the nuts. Then all I need to do is bleed the new master, and have him assist me with bleeding all my lines and I am ready to go.
But heres the little guy that gave me so much trouble.
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John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
Best way to do the master is take a pair of old lines and bend the in a circle so that the curve up and into the reservoir . Then work the master till you get all the air out. That way you dont have to push it all the way threw the lines.
You should have gotten a bleeder kit with the new master cylinder. If you didn't, go back to the store, and ask them if they have a spare. It is 2 nuts with a small barbed fitting on the end, and 2 plastic tubes. You install the nuts into the line ports, and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid. Insert the 2 plastic lines into the reservoir, and the lines are held to the master with two small metal clips. Then gently depress the pedal to bleed the air out of the master. Add fluid as necessary, and keep pushing the pedal until no more air bubble appear. You must depress the brake pedal slowly, otherwise you will blow brake fluid all over the engine compartment and the fenders, doing great damage. Once the master is bled, you can go to the furthers rear wheel cylinder, and put a piece of hose on the bleeder after you open it. Put the other end of the hose into a car with a small amount of brake fluid in the bottom, enough to keep the bottom of the hose immersed. Then over the next hour, the line will self bleed. Just check it periodically, to make sure that the reservoir is kept full, and that no more air is coming out of the line. Then close that bleeder and do the next furthers one from the master cylinder, the same way. Do all 4 wheels this way, and you are done.
Thanks, it did not come with a bleed kit, but I was planning on doing the master bleed the way Ed mentioned, by buying 2 extra lines and bending them. Going to try to arrange a friend to come over soon to help me with the wheel bleeds
Well its back on the road again!
I do have a funny story though:
Monday night i picked up the hearse from the local Tate Boys shop after they bled the brakes and changed oil. On the drive home once i got up to about 40-45 I heard a loud banging and metal clanking that SEEMED to be coming from under the car. So I was worried my transmission was starting to fail or something, so i was scared i had another big repair coming up thinking "I hope I can get it home"
So yesterday...I drive it again and get it nice and warmed up, take it on the highway and get it to 65 mph and the noise starts up again real fast and loud. But this time I am more mentally collected and realize its not coming from underneath, it sounds like the roof.
I look around and try to think "what could be making that noise", then it dawns on my what it was. My window mounted reindeer antlers have plastic pieces that were banging on the roof with the wind. I got home and ripped those plastic pieces off.
Not ready to remove the antlers just yet. I still need to drive it a bit and make some smiles.
I do have a funny story though:
Monday night i picked up the hearse from the local Tate Boys shop after they bled the brakes and changed oil. On the drive home once i got up to about 40-45 I heard a loud banging and metal clanking that SEEMED to be coming from under the car. So I was worried my transmission was starting to fail or something, so i was scared i had another big repair coming up thinking "I hope I can get it home"
So yesterday...I drive it again and get it nice and warmed up, take it on the highway and get it to 65 mph and the noise starts up again real fast and loud. But this time I am more mentally collected and realize its not coming from underneath, it sounds like the roof.
I look around and try to think "what could be making that noise", then it dawns on my what it was. My window mounted reindeer antlers have plastic pieces that were banging on the roof with the wind. I got home and ripped those plastic pieces off.
Not ready to remove the antlers just yet. I still need to drive it a bit and make some smiles.
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I am sorry to jump in here, but that problem sounds like the choke and the carb is not working right.
Have that dialed in before chasing anything else.
Thats what the shop told me, but it turned out to be the fuel filter. I solved this problem for now by removing the fuel filter with a return line, and installing a new filter with no return line.
For some reason using the return line results in bogging. I do plan on eventually trying to figure out what other underlying problem is causing the return line to be problematic but at the moment I have more important things above it.
Over the weekend i tested the coolant and its good to only 5 degrees, so thats moved to the top of the list. Going to get that done this weekend whether i do it myself or end up taking it in. One way or another that has to be done urgently. It got down to 18 degrees over the weekend, so cutting it close.
Then 2nd on my list right now is researching regarding a seatbelt or tether to properly secure my sons booster seat.
Earlier this month, after letting it sit 2 months, and getting the oil changed it started to run quite poorly. While idling and warming up in the driveway it would sputter randomly while idling and while giving it throttle. But I've been giving it lengthy drive time each weekend and its been getting better every week, and its back to running as it was before it sat for 2 months. Maybe the cleaner oil played a role? I dont know.
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
Now to but that buster seat in. Is the spare tire behind the passengers side or drivers on that car? If its passengers take it out. Get you the combination out of a car. put the cross belt were yours is and the shoulder strap were the tie down for the tire is. Bring it up over the top of the seat. Use a hard bolt to fasten it in. If the tire is on the drivers side the you could use the upper mounting hardware for the jump seat it is bolted threw the divider.just use a hard bolt In about the same place. This would be your best possible choices to have the buster seat up front.
Me of course i think of my first born ridding up and down the hills in the 50 jeep i had in one of the hook over the back of the seat car seats we got at some second hand store. So one had replaced the right bucket with a bus seat so it had one of the first 20-80 seats put in a rig. Bounced over a lot of rocks that way. Hard to beleve she is all most 50 now.
Me of course i think of my first born ridding up and down the hills in the 50 jeep i had in one of the hook over the back of the seat car seats we got at some second hand store. So one had replaced the right bucket with a bus seat so it had one of the first 20-80 seats put in a rig. Bounced over a lot of rocks that way. Hard to beleve she is all most 50 now.
Actually i see no spare tire on either side. I better take care of that. Here are two pictures of the jump seat latch, and a beam behind the seat. Is this beam where the spare mounts?
Also excuse the dust. Its from when i sanded and painted one of the floor pans, i need to give it a wipe down.
Also excuse the dust. Its from when i sanded and painted one of the floor pans, i need to give it a wipe down.
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John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
Thats it. But I would not hook it to that strap. Go to the brace were the strap is welded on and drill down hook the chest strap on the bottom . That way you go threw 3 layers of tin in the most reinforced spot.
Thanks, I am sending these pictures to the contact i have been talking to at SeatBelt Planet here in OK to get his thoughts. The other option of just taking him with me around the neighborhood only is also an acceptable option, as i dont want to go wild with modifications either.
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I got my antifreeze taken care of Saturday. So now I'm good for -40 degrees. I think the guys at the shop accidentally left my fuel filter on though when they parked it, as the battery was too low to start when I picked it up. Easy mistake though.
They jumped me with a portable jumper thing and I drove it home, but strangely after i picked up the car none of the turn signals were working. I gave it a good charge after i got home but havent tested since then. I dont know if it had to do with the low battery or what, but I found it very strange.
They jumped me with a portable jumper thing and I drove it home, but strangely after i picked up the car none of the turn signals were working. I gave it a good charge after i got home but havent tested since then. I dont know if it had to do with the low battery or what, but I found it very strange.