So last night as I reviewed my pictures for the day I realized I may have removed the wrong nuts. I took this picture before removing the upper left side nut (which was the hardest one by the way.) When I reviewed this picture later I noticed that I completely overlooked the lower left nut. Tonight I'm going to get that nut off and see if that does the trick. I guess I need to put the two right nuts from the picture back on.
68 Cadillac MM Combo (Restore thread)
- Thread starter Blake Sherwin
- Start date
Yep that was it, it was just that one nut I missed. It was a successful delivery
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
In all my endeavors I have discovered you got to take all the right nuts off. Something you struggle every time.
I've got my booster in a box ready to ship to Dewey Booster. While its off I figured I'd look into the master cylinder rebuild too, called Apple Hydraulics in New York and they charge $245. That will have to wait unfortunately. This booster rebuild will probably be my birthday present.
For now I have the master cylinder sitting partway into a gallon ziplock bag in my garage to keep the openings mostly safe from dirt. I may try to do a simple cleaning of the cylinder while the booster is being rebuilt.
For now I have the master cylinder sitting partway into a gallon ziplock bag in my garage to keep the openings mostly safe from dirt. I may try to do a simple cleaning of the cylinder while the booster is being rebuilt.
They have two different prices for the rebuild. With just having the cylinder sleeved, you save big. I will check to see if a kit is available for your car, and if it is, I will put the kit into it for you. Will check to get back to you. The last 1968 that I did was for Shaun Blyler, and it took a while to find the kit.
Thank you, let me know what you find and what your cost is. May as well get it done, better safe than careening down the road in a land yacht
Spoke to NAPA today, and they have a remanufactured master cylinder available for the commercial chassis. Price depends on what brand brake booster your car has. The core charge was $11, so I suggest that if you go this route, you keep your old master cylinder as a back up for the future. The remanufactured master might not be an OEM (original equipment manufactured unit), but an aftermarket unit that was available many years ago as a replacement. This will be less money than having yours sleeved, and buying a kit, if you can find one. Rock Auto lists a kit, but I don't know if it is correct for the application. They have mistakes in some of the listings.
Thanks alot, do you have that NAPA part number? I will look into that
This is what I can find:
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMBP1879
Let me know if that is the one. I would need to get new brake lines if so, since the ports are on the opposite side. Well I need at least one new brake line either way, since I twisted one.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMBP1879
Let me know if that is the one. I would need to get new brake lines if so, since the ports are on the opposite side. Well I need at least one new brake line either way, since I twisted one.
Go into a NAPA store, and make sure that the lines come off the same side as your original master cylinder. If the lines come off the opposite side, then it isn't the correct master cylinder. Shopping on line for this type of part, just doesn't work, since many times, they will use a stock photo, instead of the actual part. In 1968, there were a few variables that you will need to know to get the correct part. You need to know who made the brake booster, and that is determined by it either being painted black, or having a gold iridite plated finish. Does your car have drum brakes all around, or is it disc front, and drum rears? This will also make a difference in the correct master cylinder.
I just called NAPA to get the part number. Their part number for the master cylinder, based on the black painted booster, and 4 wheel drum brakes for the commercial chassis is P1879, with a mechanics discounted price of $55.89, plus $11.00 core charge. I would definitely hold onto the core, rather than turning it in, in the event that you should ever need another rebuild, and they are not available. Take a picture of your master cylinder or take it with you to make sure that you get the correct item.
Thanks, I will do exactly that. Getting a replacement will also mean I can leisurely work on cleaning the old one myself and maybe learn something in the process.
I went to NAPA today on my lunchbreak, took my master cylinder with me. Referenced the part number and he pulled it up, and looked at mine a bit. He then pulled out a brush and cleaned the underside and lookup the number on the bottom, then he measured the bore size which impressed me. He then found a completely different part for me. Said the part I currently have is listed as being for a 71-76 AMC.
So he said this is likely NOT the original part and someone has replaced it down the line, but he said the part he found for me, if I was using this, will definitely be a fit and work.
I ordered the part and am waiting on it. It even has the lines on the correct side.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM2042
Part number: M2042
NAPA was way helpful than any of the people at O'Reillys or AutoZone have been in the past. I was pretty amazed at their service
So he said this is likely NOT the original part and someone has replaced it down the line, but he said the part he found for me, if I was using this, will definitely be a fit and work.
I ordered the part and am waiting on it. It even has the lines on the correct side.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NMAM2042
Part number: M2042
NAPA was way helpful than any of the people at O'Reillys or AutoZone have been in the past. I was pretty amazed at their service
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
it pays to shop around. the clue was the brass fittings. it should not have them on the master with the lines going into the fitting. but the lines will go right into the master. as Bendex made them for both they would fit on, all most.
you may need both lines from the junction to the master. the hardest part of getting the old car up to speed is fixing what everyone else cobbled. see carborater
you may need both lines from the junction to the master. the hardest part of getting the old car up to speed is fixing what everyone else cobbled. see carborater
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While I wait for the booster and master to arrive I still need to fix this broken brake line. The nut on the junction box will not loosen no matter what and its already starting to get rounded. As far as I can see I have two options:
1. Cut the damaged end of the line somehow and continue using it.
2. Use a propane torch to heat the nut and try to remove it.
# 2 concerns me a little as I dont really like the idea of using fire down near the engine. And when it comes to cutting the line I am not sure how I would get it back into the fitting if there are no threads, unless they are self threading.
Any recommendation on the best option to repair the line? Also was looking into flaring kits
1. Cut the damaged end of the line somehow and continue using it.
2. Use a propane torch to heat the nut and try to remove it.
# 2 concerns me a little as I dont really like the idea of using fire down near the engine. And when it comes to cutting the line I am not sure how I would get it back into the fitting if there are no threads, unless they are self threading.
Any recommendation on the best option to repair the line? Also was looking into flaring kits
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John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
cut it in two. use a pair of vice gripes. as once you have damaged the fitting it's toast. if the block is not stable you will need to hold it also as you take the line off. as I said that not factory they night have used some lock tight on it who can say. but never use heat brake fluid is highly flammable. you be lucky not to loose the car.
I've already been using a small pair of vice grips with no success, this is how I have rounded it. But cutting the line would give me more room to work with. I will cut it down to the nut and keep at it, and keep putting PB on there.
Skip the PB Blaster, and go to Deep Creep by Seafoam. You will run into problems unless you use a good quality tubing wrench.
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
biger vice grip might help. if you rounded it with them you were not tight enough
Peter Grave - Deceased - 1938 - 2022
PCS Member
brake line
If you have cut the line try using a good quality not China six point socket I would assume 3/8 there may be enough left of the fitting to get it loose this way. Good luck.
If you have cut the line try using a good quality not China six point socket I would assume 3/8 there may be enough left of the fitting to get it loose this way. Good luck.