Jean-Marc Dugas
PCS Member
Many 75 and 76 Superior also had that feature. I have not seen it as an option in the brochures, but I have seen a number of pictures of Superiors with the roof storage box.
1976 Superior 54XL Restoration Log
- Thread starter Jean-Marc Dugas
- Start date
Jean-Marc Dugas
PCS Member
The transformation has started. The Mars 888 have been replaced by a pair of CP100s like the original ones. Next the CJ184s will be replaced by a pair of 184H.
Jean-Marc Dugas
PCS Member
The CJ184 are off, replaced by a pair of 184Hs (Thanks Jeremy L).
This was a nerve wrecking experience. The skirts for both these 184Hs were original and had both lights tilted outbound so I had to trim them so that they would sit level on the car. I never done this, but there was no better time than this afternoon to get learning.
First I made sure that the car was leveled from side to side. I could not rely on the roof for this since the middle of the roof is slightly higher than the sides so I used the tunnel lights as a reference. I did not worry about having the car leveled from front to back since the roof is flat in this direction.
I had one new skirt and for the second one, I took the light mechanism out of it so it was easier to handle. I made a template to line-up the new mounting holes through the roof, measured everything twice and went to town with the drill. I wanted the mounting bolts in place when I leveled the skirts so that the skirts would stay in place lined-up properly. I did not bolt them down.
Because I have to remove the lights to park the car in the garage I moved them back 2 1/2 from where the CJ184 were mounted. This way I will have full access to the three mounting bolts that I secure with wing nuts for easy installation and removal.
In order to level the skirts, the passenger side one had to be lifted 5/8" and the driver side one four popsicle stick thick.
I warped the bottom of the skirts with masking tape and used this nifty tool to scribe the cut line around each skirts.
Once the scribe line was complete with the tool, I marked it with a sharpy so that it was easier to see.
Next steep was to take the Dremel tool with a cutting blade and follow the line.
As you can see, one skirt required a little mor trimming than the other.
At the end, both skirts ended up to be perfect!
I reassembled both lights, wrapped the bottom gasket and voila! Job done.
This was a nerve wrecking experience. The skirts for both these 184Hs were original and had both lights tilted outbound so I had to trim them so that they would sit level on the car. I never done this, but there was no better time than this afternoon to get learning.
First I made sure that the car was leveled from side to side. I could not rely on the roof for this since the middle of the roof is slightly higher than the sides so I used the tunnel lights as a reference. I did not worry about having the car leveled from front to back since the roof is flat in this direction.
I had one new skirt and for the second one, I took the light mechanism out of it so it was easier to handle. I made a template to line-up the new mounting holes through the roof, measured everything twice and went to town with the drill. I wanted the mounting bolts in place when I leveled the skirts so that the skirts would stay in place lined-up properly. I did not bolt them down.
Because I have to remove the lights to park the car in the garage I moved them back 2 1/2 from where the CJ184 were mounted. This way I will have full access to the three mounting bolts that I secure with wing nuts for easy installation and removal.
In order to level the skirts, the passenger side one had to be lifted 5/8" and the driver side one four popsicle stick thick.
I warped the bottom of the skirts with masking tape and used this nifty tool to scribe the cut line around each skirts.
Once the scribe line was complete with the tool, I marked it with a sharpy so that it was easier to see.
Next steep was to take the Dremel tool with a cutting blade and follow the line.
As you can see, one skirt required a little mor trimming than the other.
At the end, both skirts ended up to be perfect!
I reassembled both lights, wrapped the bottom gasket and voila! Job done.
Attachments
Jean-Marc Dugas
PCS Member
The 184H data plates will be going back on a little later.
A door stop work will for leveling the lights. Pretty fancy with that scribe tool i would just lay the sharpie flat on the roof at a right angle and drag it around. one may end up doing it twice that way. Don't forget to toss all that scrap brass in a bucket. It suprising how it adds up on a car.
Jean-Marc Dugas
PCS Member
I'll be picking up the 54XL from storage the first weekend of April, and it will be going to the upholstery shop on the first of May to get the new headliner installed. That will give me 3 weeks to get some of the dirty work finished. I still need to sand, prep, and paint the floor in the cab area as well as install the new carpet and sound deadener. This will lift a lot of dust, so I want that done before the nice clean white headliner is installed.
This boy is getting excited!
This boy is getting excited!
Let the fun began.
Jean-Marc Dugas
PCS Member
Now that the car is back home it is time to roll up our sleeve and get going again.
Yesterday was cab area floor prep day.
Yesterday was cab area floor prep day.
Just a heads up that seam sealer goes on before the primer. I use either SEM or Delco seam sealer. Put it on and brush it into the cracks. Then allow it to set up for a day and put the primer on top of the seam sealer. You want to close the seams before painting, not afterward. This is how GM did it at the factory.
Jean-Marc Dugas
PCS Member
I decided to go with POR 15 anty rust paint. It is still a little chilly here, so I hope that the POR 15 will be dry by morning so I can apply the seam sealer.
I decided to go with the paint first because since this is not a new built and there are many instances of various panels welded on top of each other, I would have a better chance to get product o to as much metal as possible this way instead of going with sealer first.
I decided to go with the paint first because since this is not a new built and there are many instances of various panels welded on top of each other, I would have a better chance to get product o to as much metal as possible this way instead of going with sealer first.
Look at all those wires.....
The drain hole in the right side of the cowl may be pluged letting water build up and come in the vent. Check the boot on the brake booster make sure the oil you see is not brake flued. Looks like you have that floor under control. Nice to see only a little surface rust.
As for the wires that 's how you can tell its a superior.