Why does it crank so slow...

Richard the resistance built up with corrosion in the JUNK gypsy terminal ends is the issue. If you take them apart you are going to find I am sure white powder mixed in with the copper cable strands. The Ford truck mentioned in the earlier post had a burned melt spot in one place where it arced trying to make contact with the gypsy terminal end. Your problem is the gypsy terminal ends THEY ARE JUNK!!!! There is no other way to put it. Find a heavy truck repair shop in your area that makes battery cables for big rigs have them put proper ends on your cables the problem will leave. DON'T pull the starter the chances of it being the issue are VERY SMALL. The fact that you have gypsy terminal ends on EVERY CABLE to the batteries it is a wonder you have not had a fire. You have a beautiful rig make you battery cables match the rest of the rig. Over the years I have had more Triple A calls for dead battery where the battery was not dead but the JUNK gypsy terminal ends were corroded.
 
Batteries are big enough. You connections​ are poor. I'll bet you coffee that if you go out and buy 4 new battery ends like the ones you have clean up the wire ends and replace the terminology ends with the new ones it will work better for a time.

That is just the nature of them. If you go out and buy the compression ones as suggested they will last longer. If you have ends soldered on it will be a perment repair.

As for the wires coming off the positive post of the batteries . The cable is most likely your mechanical siren. The black one on the other post a charge wire. The red one with the fuse I'm betting is the relay for the blower on the AC unit. None of these would work untell they were energised with power to do that coming off the ignation Which gets it's power from the machanical switch.

The question I would have is the red wire should go off with the switch and if the other is the charge wire it only direct to one battery. This gives the other on a round about way to receive o the charge.

The car should start easily on one battery. Either one. And run on that battery all day long. From what I see if you have it on the left battery. It would not charge . That one will only get a charge if the switch is in the dule position.

The task of the Cole hearse switch is to be able to shut off all power to the car. There is a tap in the back that will allow you to bypass it for power to the clock. If you bypass the switch to supply power you defeat this purpose
 
Thank you guys and appreciate all the in put. I will work on replacing the cables with the proper ones. Today I go out to test start her and it fires right up on Battery #1. No drag just crank right up. :eek:

Thanks again.
 
DISCLAIMER: The opinions posted to this thread may include information from sources that may or may not be reliable and facts that don’t necessarily exist. All comments should be considered satirical and any and all quotes attributed to actual experts are complete and total nonsense. Pictures that represent actual car batteries should be considered altered and not in any way real.
 
I had both batteries tested and they are strong. Turns out it is my battery switch. Took switch apart and jiggled wires and played with switch and got a good connection therefore it cranked right up on Battery #1. So I think I'll switch out the switch. Will this switch work on the Lifeliner? The last switch I purchased was a used one for $15 off eBay.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Cole-Hersee...ash=item4b1a2aa61c:g:7ScAAOSwwvZZQZfz&vxp=mtr
 

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If it looks like your original switch, then yes. If different, then you might have to deal with mounting holes, etc..
 
Stick with a period-correct switch. The switch in the photo is not. You will get points deducted!! ;)
 
Kurt Arends said:
Stick with a period-correct switch. The switch in the photo is not. You will get points deducted!! ;)
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Only thing I can locate are used ones. Not sure why they go bad. Turns out it is a simple wiring process. Hot side in from each battery then a single hot cable to the starter. :thumbsup: Since I've always left this up to someone else to repair replacing the cables is not such a big deal after all. Just need the proper length, next project. But in the mean time I did replace the cables ends and cleaned up the cables adding protective gel as well.
 
If nothing else it just cleans up the car. Now if you change the battery switch. Move the charge wire from the alternator to the wire out that way it will charge the battery in Either position. The same for that fused wire. eBay has a lot of sellers that will but ends on fore you and sell cable by the foot. You should not have a need for anything bigger then a #2 wire for the positive and ground. The ground wire should go from the terminal to the frame on the out side. You may have to flip on of the batteries to do that. The a ground cable from the engine to the frame.

My guess is going from the rust belt. As the rust built up things got moved. A neater routing of cables and wire not only looks better it works better.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
If nothing else it just cleans up the car. Now if you change the battery switch. Move the charge wire from the alternator to the wire out that way it will charge the battery in Either position. The same for that fused wire. eBay has a lot of sellers that will but ends on fore you and sell cable by the foot. You should not have a need for anything bigger then a #2 wire for the positive and ground. The ground wire should go from the terminal to the frame on the out side. You may have to flip on of the batteries to do that. The a ground cable from the engine to the frame.

My guess is going from the rust belt. As the rust built up things got moved. A neater routing of cables and wire not only looks better it works better.
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Great information that comes in handy. Thanks for everyone's in-put
 
Well guys got the new switch installed and same old thing. Got a little mad and grabbed the battery cables coming to the switch and pulled on them and wouldn't you know it, it cranked. Get this, ALWAYS double check all your cable connections before ramping up for a project. As I discovered the battery cable to the starter was very VERY loose on the starter. Tightened the cable up and now it cranks like a new one. It cranks on Battery #1, or Battery #2, or on both batteries with no slow cranking whatsoever. I don't have a mechanic on this side of the state therefore have to figure this stuff on my own with the help of the PCS crew.:applause:
 
If you do it methodigall with out anger one can normally have a easer out come. But what ever works. Hint is when you start having troubles go to the last thing you fix and fix it again.

But congratulations you can now add mechanic to you list
 
Mechanic I know swears he's never made a buck finding a problem the first time. He's paid for a couple nice boats on the same problem coming up again from other cars though.

Education costs.
 
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