The Rim Reaper - 1953 Pontiac Hearse by Barnette

After calling around town and finding prices all over $120 to steam my tank, I have decided to go the vinegar route. It will be the method that best matches my "budget" or lack - there - of, and looking at the tank it should do just fine.

Happy Good Friday everybody!
 
save the money were you can with out short changing your self and you will find there are plenty of spaces it's better spend on . :thumbsup:
 
Got the vinegar soaking the bottom of the tank, swishing around for 5 minutes each hour when I am home. Is it safe for me to put the sending unit in to seal the tank so I can flip it, or will the vinegar eat at the cork?

After typing that I was cleaning up the cap plate for the unit and ended up breaking the copper strip on the unit. (Picture 1)

As well, I have followed the fuel line as thoroughly as possible and there us no pump, although I do have this item in the glove box which I have been informed is the glass bottle carrier for the fuel filter or fuel pump. Could this mean that the fuel pump was the problem with this car that took it off the road for so long? Somebody tried to fix it, had it apart and now it is gone? (Picture 2)

My biggest question is still where could it have been placed on the car? The only break in the line is along the outside of the frame on the drivers side in front of the door under the Barnette symbol.

Is there anything else that connects to that style fuel pump, maybe from the gas pedal or something? Or does it just sit in line? The last picture is where I think it may have been, it needs to be re oriented as it uploaded upside down...
 

Attachments

  • 20150403_153329.jpg
    20150403_153329.jpg
    94.9 KB · Views: 249
  • 20150403_143651.jpg
    20150403_143651.jpg
    97 KB · Views: 232
  • 20150403_144811.jpg
    20150403_144811.jpg
    86.8 KB · Views: 232
The bail wire is for the glass bowl that is the carburetor filter, just before where the gas line enters the carburetor. Not a difficult item to find on eBay, or at a swap meet.
Breaking the copper strap off the sending unit, is going to be a problem, that I don't have an easy fix for. It could be soldered but I am not certain that it will not break loose again. A lot of gas tank sending units have been reproduced, so you might be able to find a reproduction, or you can check the Recommended Vendors forum, for a gas tank restoration company. I believe that there are 2 listed.
 
I am assuming the only thing the sending unit does it tell you how much fuel is in the tank right? If so it can wait, but if I want to actually drive it more than 20 miles someday I will need to fix it.
 
you have found were the electric fuel pump was. so it either a replacement mechanical one or put back in a 6 volt electric. me I would put back the mechanical one and put a inline filter where the splice is.

the problem with the sending unit is you have no Idea what it is out of. so you need to fix it I can tell some one has tried to re solder the pick up tube at some tig it needs redone also pretty bad job and that the suction line.

as for the tank a good brand of duct tape will cover the hole.
 
I will look into the fuel pumps, are there any concerns with putting in an electric one?

My father drove the car 2 miles, would it not have needed a fuel pump to achieve that goal?

Hmm. ......
 
Bud Weishaar said:
I will look into the fuel pumps, are there any concerns with putting in an electric one?

My father drove the car 2 miles, would it not have needed a fuel pump to achieve that goal?

Hmm. ......
Click to expand...

yes it would have, it would also have required the fuel line to go from the tank to the carburetor ! since you can't find the fuel pump and there is a brake in the line it is safe to assume that it has been removed. some time after you dad drove it last.

the easy thing to do would be to put a electric on back in. finding a 6 volt electric one may be a search of e-bay, check amazon try the pontiac people you got the overhaul gasket set from.

do me a favor will you, the next time your out taking pictures take one of the b pillar between the front an center doors at the drip rail. I would like to confirm what I remember seeing on the one of Bill's
 
On your gas tank, if you have a small chain, you can put inside of the tank with the vinegar and shake it around. When the vinegar is out you can turn the tank in all directions and shake it as hard as you can, this should help knock out any rust or any unwanted stuff. You can add a quart of Coca Cola, with the chain, you be surprise how clean Coke can remove rust etc.
On the brass strip, you might see if you can drill out the pin and drill a new hole in the strip and put a brass bolt and nut back in for the replacement. Just some free advice:D
 
Thanx Herb John, I may just try that first, but it broke quite easily so it may break again when I try.

I am ordering some parts, it had a 192 degree thermostat but Rock Auto only has 180 or 205 degree. Should I go safe and get 180? Or should I really try to find a 192 degree elsewhere?
 
now if you read that chart I posted I'm sure that original thermostat on the car was 160. it was common practice to have a winter thermostat at the higher rating then the summer one. but in 53 I don't think you could even get a 192. one 180 was about at high as you could get. they did come out with the 192 till they added the converters and the thought was run the engine hotter and you have less emissions. today they are all over 200.
 
The Pontiacs and Buicks I drove in the 50s I ALWAYS removed the thermostat in the summer usually early May and back in in September. This way they run cooler less vapor lock easier starting when hot. Todays gas running cooler would be a plus in hot weather.
 
So from what I gather if I run a 160 it will be easier on the engine? Being that they are so cheap I may just order 2 different ones and see which works better for my engine.
 
not so much easier on the engine but easier on you. they hard start when warm due to vapor lock was the reason most of this has a electric pump put on. teh standard trick was tin foil and clothes pins on the fuel line were it came out of the pump up into the carburetor.

vapor lock is when the fuel in the line gets so hot that it converts to a gas before entering the carb. that is the reason for the heat shield under the carb on this one. to keep the heat from boiling the the fuel in the carb.

now on a good running engine with a good cooling system drove easy this was never a problem. but get to flogging or lugging it on a 100f plus deg day and then shut it off some had problems. the electric pump had enough pressure to overcome the problem. but as there is no return line on these the tended to flood the carburetor giving you other problems. most were added along with the mechanical pump and has a switch to turn it on when needed

so like she left the factory is your best bet. but you have to decide if that means GM or Barnette.

don't forget my pictures of the space between the doors at the drip rail.
 
I spoke with my Dad today, he thinks he may have hooked an electric fuel pump on it to get the fuel from the jug to the carb, it was long ago and memories fade.

Here is the pic you requested Ed, between the doors at the drip rail. Hope it is what you are looking for.
 

Attachments

  • 20150405_122351.jpg
    20150405_122351.jpg
    97.1 KB · Views: 124
Here's another picture, same spot but midpoint to the door, a photo worth blowing up with a rustic wood frame and selling.
 

Attachments

  • 2015-04-05 12.41.47.jpg
    2015-04-05 12.41.47.jpg
    94.4 KB · Views: 124
yes that the same as Bill's. it was raining. imagine that rain just north of Victoria BS in mid summer. so we snapped a few and went to look at things on the Black and White.
but here is why I needed that picture. notice the difference
 

Attachments

  • IMG_7976.jpg
    IMG_7976.jpg
    88.6 KB · Views: 107
  • 1963 black.jpg
    1963 black.jpg
    95.2 KB · Views: 102
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top