Rocky has a new coach?????
- Thread starter Rocky Fluegge
- Start date
Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
pulled the rear springs out, both are broken,
both rear eyelets broken off, could not see it till i took it apart, and also one lower leaf broken also.
milwaukee has a good spring shop so i will take to them to see if the want to make a whole new set or just redo the broken ones. we will see.
both rear eyelets broken off, could not see it till i took it apart, and also one lower leaf broken also.
milwaukee has a good spring shop so i will take to them to see if the want to make a whole new set or just redo the broken ones. we will see.
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Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
well now that there is nothing back there, im going to clean up the back half of the frame andprime and paint it.
there is some loose undercoat so im going to get it peel off, prime and paint and reundercoat the floor. The floor looks really good back there no rust tru from what i can see. so that is good.
there is some loose undercoat so im going to get it peel off, prime and paint and reundercoat the floor. The floor looks really good back there no rust tru from what i can see. so that is good.
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Wayne Krakowski
PCS Member
Thanks a million Rocky,you guys sure impress me with your skills,and that we can rebuild it attitude,a pleasure to read and learn 
Darren Bedford
PCS Member
OUTSTANDING !
Very cool to see and follow along during the resto.
Space, tools, time & ability !!! YOU GOT IT ALL ROCKY !!!
Keep up the great work,
Darren
Very cool to see and follow along during the resto.
Space, tools, time & ability !!! YOU GOT IT ALL ROCKY !!!
Keep up the great work,
Darren
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
try some of this stuff http://www.hirschauto.com/prodinfo.asp?number=MIRHD-QT
I have never seen anything like it saves a lot of time and products and once it's on your done. you can have that entire back finished and ready to go back to gather in a couple hours. using less them a quart. we are testing it big time on the suburban. so far as a daily driver it's held up well. but a warning it's a floater is you spray it. takes overnight to dry and if you get it on you, you wear it for a week
I have never seen anything like it saves a lot of time and products and once it's on your done. you can have that entire back finished and ready to go back to gather in a couple hours. using less them a quart. we are testing it big time on the suburban. so far as a daily driver it's held up well. but a warning it's a floater is you spray it. takes overnight to dry and if you get it on you, you wear it for a week
Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
thanks i think i will give it a try, i have used por15 and really dont like it lots have has some issues with it. Its funny but what i have tested and has held up great is old rustolem oil based rust metal primer and paint. I have had it on some stuff that has been outside for about 20 years and has held up way better then it should. thanks for the link and heads up.
Danny Ryder - Deceased - 1962 - 2021
PCS Life Member
Dang Rocky, I told you all that horse power can be a problem when drag racing and you pop the clutch too much the rear ends just fall right out!!
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
I was using nothing but Rustolem before Paul put me on to this. never tried the Por 15 as you had to buy to many products. at 100 bucks a gl I did not want to experiment with the miracle paint. but Paul sent me a gl of it and we have used it everywhere. really sets up hard and so far the half a piece I painted is not pealing on the rusty edge. it's been out side since I painted it.
strange how the top of the eye broke off on both of the springs. the rust must have seized the bushing and worked the spring there.
John Royark JR
PCS Member
Rocky, you mentioned rear disc conversion. I dont know if you know or not that commercial chassis rear ends are NOT the same as a standard Cadillac, they have a 3/4 floating axle. You may want to read this thread for more info if not familiar with them, it may save alot of trouble later. http://www.professionalcarsociety.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8031&highlight=commercial+chassis+rear
Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
Thank you for that link, i was looking at them and scratching my head. My buddie said it looked like a floater axel, and he was hoping that was the case for our custom disc conversion. Im not quite sure what he has up his sleeve. so i told him as he gets into it i want to take some pictures of the process so i will post them. But the conversion is going to be something we will make up with parts from another kit that speedway motors offers. And then make up the other stuff we need. It is in great hands. this is some of his speciality not mine.
Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
well a little progress report, i ordered the bill hirsch paint, "thanks John" and preped the frame from the front of the x-member back. when it is good and dry i will reunder coat the rear floor pan section.
It layed down nice. i had my self all wrapped up, to keep the paint from landing on me. since it will take alot to get it to come off. Had some drops on the face scrubbed them off with lacquer thinner. That feel wonderfull on the face. Had some dry on my wrist we will see if it is all gone before the micro meet.
It layed down nice. i had my self all wrapped up, to keep the paint from landing on me. since it will take alot to get it to come off. Had some drops on the face scrubbed them off with lacquer thinner. That feel wonderfull on the face. Had some dry on my wrist we will see if it is all gone before the micro meet.
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Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
The other project i got to was i removed the front inner fenderwells so i can get to the heater boxes and the master cylinder, so i can up date that stuff. The rear section of the inners are rusted through the weel well side, so im going to try to find some rust free ones to swap out. If not i will fix them. Any one have a pair they want to get rid of?
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As I told Ed about the Bill Hirsch Chassis Black paint... you have to be careful not to get it on yourself, or anywhere you don't want it, because it will be there for a very long time. Many years ago, I got some on my hands, and it took weeks before it finally was gone. I think that it might have been faster to cut off the skin and grow another layer.
Kurt Arends
PCS Elected Director 2021-2024
And a Scotch Brite pad and lacquer thinner won't do it??
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
only if your get it now. surprising how fast it sets were you don't want it to. if a man were to spray it you better be out side away for anything else and in a full suit. let me know if you don't locate any I have a pair in the yard spotted that I need to cut some stuff off from. been waiting till spring and this 69 is past.
was that one Ex military to? looks like there kind of numbers on the firewall. or is that superiors sill number?
Kurt Arends
PCS Elected Director 2021-2024
That is M-M's number.
Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
that # matches the body tag for M M. Kurt that paint when it dries on the skin will not come off with a scotch bright. I have some on my wrist and some small dots on my face and i cant scrape them off.
John ED Renstrom
PCS Member
you will find that last three sets of numbers on every thing you take apart. there way of keeping the parts with the car.
Rocky Fluegge
PCS Member
little update to what i have been doing:
I got some rust free rear inner fender wells to replace the rusty ones from my car.
Also got my trans back that i had rebuilt
And started to strip the fire wall of the heat boxes and ducts and brake master cylinder and booster, so i can up date that stuff.
I got some rust free rear inner fender wells to replace the rusty ones from my car.
Also got my trans back that i had rebuilt
And started to strip the fire wall of the heat boxes and ducts and brake master cylinder and booster, so i can up date that stuff.
