Rhinecliff updates

[Paul Steinberg]

Kurt...... Don't tell Nick that I replaced the bulbs in the red light above the plaque with a higher lumen bulb. This translates into the car having been "modified".

 

[Kurt Arends]

Dam you Paul!

I see a whole new thread starting now!

You did give Nick that optional '63 Chrysler 7-button Town & Country radio that I gave you for that car, didn't you Paul??

 

[Nicholas Studer]

The plaque wasn't solid brass?? That's odd.

Indeed Kurt - it's brass-plating on steel.

Kurt...... Don't tell Nick that I replaced the bulbs in the red light above the plaque with a higher lumen bulb. This translates into the car having been "modified".

You only replaced one actually. Figured this out when I had to clean/dry some moisture out of one a year or two ago. I let the original one be, I figured I'd let the poor little bulb live out its useful life.

 

[Kurt Arends]

It looks like those roof side lights are roof marker lights as would have been used on a semi or straight truck cab back in the 1960s. Kind of an odd lamp choice, given its positioning.

 

[Paul Steinberg]

Dam you Paul!

I see a whole new thread starting now!

You did give Nick that optional '63 Chrysler 7-button Town & Country radio that I gave you for that car, didn't you Paul??

Don't remember if it was in the original pile of parts or not. Nick has gone back to the radio delete plate.

It looks like those roof side lights are roof marker lights as would have been used on a semi or straight truck cab back in the 1960s. Kind of an odd lamp choice, given its positioning.

They are. I have a few spares if anyone should need them. I would buy anything at a swap meet that I thought that I might need in the future for any car that I owned. I even have a NOS honeycomb radiator core for a
1926 Buick Master, even though the car was sold over 40 years ago.

 

[Nicholas Studer]

The standard Interstate battery eventually went bad, so it was replaced with a G27 battery from Antique Auto Battery after cleaning and painting the battery tray and hold-down assembly. http://www.antiqueautobattery.com/batteries/chrysler/G27MZ-B.html Seems like a good buy thus far - looks nice and the battery is turning the engine over far better than its predecessor ever did.

I also swapped out the damaged (and possibly home-brew with green wire...) negative cable with a OEM one. Turned out nice overall. It's the small projects that are fun.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

Get a good end on the power side and your trouble free for a time. Right you are if you take care of things when you make your changes it really bring brings the car up a notch.

 

[Joe Rackov]

I agree on that positive side cable. One solution is to remove the cables and take them to a commercial truck parts store or a shop that caters to auto electric repairs. They should be able to install a real battery terminal end on the cables.

Those clamp together ends were sold as "emergency" battery ends, in other words "installed when the car would not start, got it patched, good to go."
Well, until it corrodes again and fails to make contact or the cable clamp end loosens up.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

I have me a small vice on a piece of plywood that works slick for those. Especially the multi leads . When the battery is out you can set it there and clamp a solder end in it heat it with the micro tourch and slide the ends down in. That way you don't have to unhook a number of leads to change the terminal end but what ever you do it like this ,clean up repaint and replace when you do a corner.

 

[Daniel Scully]

Cables

You can buy these type ends and make your own. I like to use the cloth wires cover to make them like the old ones. You can get the solder tablet and ends from a lot of sources . You drop the solder tablet that has flux also in it heat it up and insert the cable and can also crimp it if you want.

 

[Kurt Arends]

Wow! Impressive work Dan!