Got my own now.

Np Philip. Those are actually '79 hubcaps. The correct ones are on the drivers side. So I'll have to get those, and it needs 6 curtain rods.
 
now my two cents on the new radiator. if your going to get one get a aluminum one. if you get a aluminum one get on with welded tanks not the plastic crimped on ones. yest I know the auto manufactures have been using that style since the early 90s. they are all made in china. don't get a 3 row. if you can get a one row or at the most a 2 row. the one row is the best. by the time you add 3 of them the are heating each other up not cooling.

don't but the new radiator in with out flushing the block and expect the heater core to start leaking once you get everything back together. Paul has the simple vary effect formula on block cleaner.

the biggest problem with the copper core is that no one changes the anti freeze any more. this lets acid build up the acid eats away at the copper. and it's weak.

but you not leaking just having a over heating issues with means a plugged radiator. my advice is to stop down and ask the local radiator shop how much to do a clean and repair. then weigh that with the price of the aluminum one and deduct the recycle price of the old one to decide what you want to do.

me I get all my aluminum ones off e-bay. I can get want I want at a good competitive price and reasonable time. if all pep boys have is a 3 row or greater say thanks and walk out.

what you have is a 4 row copper a one row aluminum will cool about 60% greater. here is what one looks like. yes it has plastic tanks. had a all aluminum one been available I would have taken it. the two row I put in the 73 S&S was that style.
 

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not necessarily. but it's the number of passage way the water flows threw across the radiator. in the case of the one I put in the 92 limo it was almost the same thickness as the 3 row GM original I took out. the key is to have as much water to surface contact as you can. one big oval flows more water and has more surface contact then 4 small ones. and you don't have the disadvantage of heat transfer from the tubes in front of it.

but really in your case it's just plugged I would first try one of the can flushes on the market fallow directions on the can. then back flush with the water hose. fill it back up with water and add a 1/4 cup of dawn dish soap and run it a bit to get it to wash out the mud out of the block then back flush again and fill it with water and see. if it doesn't over heat running around the block a time or two with the dish soap in it your treatment should be successful. just fill it up with plain water and drive it around if the radiator doesn't leak after flushing/cleaning, put the right mix in it and go. if it does them you can go to the replacement or repair option.

this will give you time to make sure that no damage was done to the engine over heating it. unlikely but possible and that the radiator is working. the big advantage of this is you get to play with the car a lot and you can find all the good stuff and bad stuff as you do so

don't forget to check the cap for damage. lime build up round the openings doesn't automatically say plugged. a bad cap will give you the same effect and 190 deg water is hot.
 
Here is some more information on the car:

From the M-M data plate: Serial Number: 6Z90S5Q168380
Body Number: 75338 338R
P I Black Vinyl
A I
I--- Padded
N I
T I Sable Black 19

Crain Sales tag: Car Number 157.
 
Jay,
You probably have this info., but just in case:
6=Cadillac Division
Z=Series Commercial
90= Body Style Commercial
S=Engine 500 C.I. 190HP Only engine available for 1975 Cadillac
5= Model Year 1975
Q= Assembly Plant Detroit
168380= basic number in sequence.

If you have trouble finding the wheel covers you need in FL, let me know and I'll send you some leads here.

Keep us posted on the cooling cure.
 
Thanks Philip, no I didn't have the explanations for those numbers.

I'm leaning heavily toward just replacing the radiator with a new one, seems like it would be better in the long run. I had to end up using a car dolly to pull it to where it's being stored, since it sat for a week without someone transporting it like I thought they would. Since I'm no mechanic, I had no tools with me and didn't know to disconnect the drive shaft before pulling.
So 80 miles later, the good transmission might be shot. Not sure yet. I had no other option but to do what I did. I may've located a replacement one for $150 though, so if I need to get it I can. And since it was being pulled, one tire had to blow, but there was a spare behind the seat, so that worked out.
I can already see that I'm going to go through all the same stuff you guys have. At least there's a good support network here.
 
It would have been a whole lot cheaper to have just had a roll-back go get it. I think you had other options as there has to be hundreds of towing companies in Florida with roll-backs.



Jay Maynard said:
Thanks Philip, no I didn't have the explanations for those numbers.

I'm leaning heavily toward just replacing the radiator with a new one, seems like it would be better in the long run. I had to end up using a car dolly to pull it to where it's being stored, since it sat for a week without someone transporting it like I thought they would. Since I'm no mechanic, I had no tools with me and didn't know to disconnect the drive shaft before pulling.
So 80 miles later, the good transmission might be shot. Not sure yet. I had no other option but to do what I did. I may've located a replacement one for $150 though, so if I need to get it I can. And since it was being pulled, one tire had to blow, but there was a spare behind the seat, so that worked out.
I can already see that I'm going to go through all the same stuff you guys have. At least there's a good support network here.
Click to expand...
 
Someone told me they would go get it with a car hauler for $200, but after not getting it for a week, I took care of it myself. I didn't have the cash to hire a rollback to come get it, or I would've the night it overheated. As soon as I was able to get to the area again, I handled it quick as I could.
The goal was to get it to a secure location and away from sitting in an unprotected field. If in the course of that event the transmission got fried, so be it. I may've already located another, but either way, the coach is off the side of the road. At least that part was successful.
 
Just to make you feel bit better I doubt you hurt the trans so long as oil was in it you should be OK. What kills the trans in towing without pulling the drive shaft is speed it get hot and good by. I am sure you were not speeding on the tow so chances are no damage.
 
Well I was going 65 for a bit until the tire blew, after that it was 45-50 the rest of the trip. lol
Found out today that the drivers door is holding water. Drain holes must be clogged with junk.
 
So 2 questions: What is the cure for the door holding water, and what should I use on the dash to protect it and keep it from cracking?
 
Just keep the drain holes open so they can do what they were intended to do. If there is a lot of crap in the door, you may need to remove the door panel and clean it out. There have been a number of posts on this site regarding what to use and what not to use on vinyl and rubber. Just search the site for those. Do not use anything with silicone in it such as Armor All.
 
As for the dash would getting one of those card board covers to put over the windshield help from the sun frying the dash,and I echo the comment do not use armor all.just a suggestion..
 
Jay Maynard said:
So 2 questions: What is the cure for the door holding water, and what should I use on the dash to protect it and keep it from cracking?
Click to expand...

If the car has had some door repair work sometimes the body men slater it with bondo and clog the drain holes. I keep my dash wet most of the time letting the juice soak in. I like spray foam tire spray.
 
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