firsts in life

OK, as I said before I took bookkeeping instead of typing. I took ag instead of mechanics. Is that what is meant when it is said that young people make bad decisions? I'm glad your safe ED, but this mechanical stuff is way above my pay grade.

will the say you learn as you go. mostly it's a willingness to do it and ask questions. I don't like heavy iron. you need things not in a body shop to play with it. so it's at a repair shop, this one I will pay another man to do. but if we can figure out how it slid out I will pass that on. Paul and I did hash it out last night and the rw-509 is the correct bearing for the 66-67 CC. I now understand what a green bearing is. it's one the seal is part of the bearing. the 509 comes in a number of configurations denoted by the last set of letters. the correct one is rw-509-fr. that one comes with the locking ring.

but the GM number comes up good for the 71 Buick. apparently they wanted a heavy bearing for the Buick and why engineer a new one when you have one that will work. as I said I will go up and check out the service manual today.
 
The Delco bearing that you have pictured is for a 1961 / 1962 full size Buick. As I said to you last night, I am skeptical that it is correct for your car.
 
Bearing #

Paul, if you could, I would like to know the correct bearing numbers for the 1969 axle and the noted manufacturer or if they interchange with other makes and years. Thank You, in advance.
 
See, another good reason to leave your skirts on when you drive the car. I had this happen to a mid 70s T Bird I had, I saw in my side mirror the rear wheel exit the fender and watched the axle slide out after that then it was gone. Car comes to a pretty fast stop then the car hits the ground. I was only doing about 35 at the time or could have been ugly.
 
the have the car apart. it was as I thought the retainer let go at some time and the axle decided that it no longer wanted in the bearing. we ca find do evidence that it spun on the axle so when he presses on the new one he can tell . the rw-509 is the correct bearing sort of. but as we don't have a locking ring we have the rw-509-fr coming. the other difference is the o ring seal on the out side. here is a picture of the bearings side by side. so according to my research Mike the rw-509-fr is the correct bearing from 1965 to 1969. 70 to 76 take a different one. I knew that we had a bad slave cylinder on the left so ordered a new set. this is the chinese number we got. they are the metric equivalent of 1-1/8 so it's a option. the last number is L or R 4 or 5
 

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the bearing came in from the bigger city this afternoon. as we were not sure of the condition, I got two of them. they would not escort me out with a armed guard but let me brave the parking lot by myself. I have bought diamonds that were less money. but it's what we needed I'm just thankful that I did not have to pay retail cost. we will pick up the car tomorrow and try to head out to the junction again. any one else need one of these things I do have one I can part with. that last number is off the lock ring or retaining ring what ever you want to call it .
 

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we got one out ot rock auto also for 55 bucks. it's not here yet either. with the car sitting in some one else's shop. I figured whats 30 bucks if I can get one now over night. but if I had a 65 to 69 car I would have a pair in my clove box.
now if I can find a man that needs one for his 61 62 buick have I got 20 buck deal for him
 
the bearing came in from the bigger city this afternoon. as we were not sure of the condition, I got two of them. they would not escort me out with a armed guard but let me brave the parking lot by myself. I have bought diamonds that were less money. but it's what we needed I'm just thankful that I did not have to pay retail cost. we will pick up the car tomorrow and try to head out to the junction again. any one else need one of these things I do have one I can part with. that last number is off the lock ring or retaining ring what ever you want to call it .

I would have been happy for that price when I had to replace the 49 ones. I think I paid close to that for one bearing.
 
I would have been happy for that price when I had to replace the 49 ones. I think I paid close to that for one bearing.

Do you have any pictures of the 49 caddy's rear end, and have you ever had it apart to change or update anything?
The reason I'm asking, I'm doing my 48 Chevy and I'm looking for any info and pictures that might be the same? Thanks.
 
Extra parts

I do have an entire differential from our 65 Superior to pinch parts or use, in the event a major event happened. What holds the axle in on the 1969? Why does the retainer ring allow the axle to slip out on the 1969 isn't the retainer ring to blame? Wouldn't lock-tite liquid on the bolts work? Seriously Twice now it has slipped out, and the grease shows up on the inside of the rim at first before it comes out further, so you do get some notice. The axle is now working out agian the third time soon I am guessing.
 
we went up and picked up the car today it made the five mile turn around trip twice with ease. looked over the old parts today. I can see why it came out so now we feel better. some one has set the lock ring with a big punch and distorted it. you can see were it was not touching at all no most of it. in the pictures the shinny spots were were it was touching the gray were it did not. not a lot of surface no touching at all. as luck would have it the rock auto box was sitting by the door when we got back. but the bearing is coming priory mail and it's not here. all we got was the heater core so we put it in today.

the bill was not bad but you can see why i do my own work. he only put in one slave cylinder? it did give me a chance to compare the two they are identical. the only difference is the rubber on the end. the plungers will inter change slick as can be.
 

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Thats it?

I have not seen the axle apart yet but can not believe that the only thing holding the axle in is the ring you pictured. A pressure fit ring? Or is there a retainer that bolts in. Wow, hard to believe this axle design is so poorly executed!
 
So, based on what you have found out, Ed, in order to cure my rear axle seal leaking problem, I could replace the bearings with the part number rw-509-fr? That would be the only way to stop the leaking, as it appears that no one just makes the seal for the old bearing. Would be great if I could finally get those darn things from leaking :)

I would probably get the Timken part--I make things for that company at work. I wonder if I could get a discount......haha.
 
OK let me explain to you how I go about looking up a part that is no longer listed in the parts book. first thing I do is look it up in the Hollanders exchange book. I bout a set off e-bay covering the 60 threw 70 I have been working on. I also got one with my 53 the books cover about a ten year span so if you buy them get one with your car in the middle.


in the case of the 1969 fleetwood 75 this is what I found. the book lists 69 caddy as all having the same axle with the exception of the CC. the exchange number is 910. when we look up 910 we find that 68 and 69 share the same axle. then we check housing and 68 and 69 share the same housing. so it reasonable to say they use the same bearing not 100% but close. I would have look up rear end assy but this book has the 60s eliminated in that category

then for a reference we go to Rock auto since we know that all 69 except cc share this same part we look up 69 bearing and search for rear. were there are a number of them listed with one giving us the number of aw-509-fa. had there not been any listed we would have looked up 68 as we know they are the same.

now armed with a bearing number we can drop down to the locale parts store and determinant why has the best price on it with the fastest delivery and make our choices.

I'll include a brake down out of the 67 book and you can find that 67 used a seal between the housing and the bearing on there cars. with out checking I would guess that this aw509 would be the proper bearing for it.

now a man armed with the GM part numbers would look up the year modal and part, get the number and cross it over to the aw509fa. this is what Paul and I did over the phone the other day and how he was able to determinant that the rw509 fit the 61-62 Buick. or he would could look on some thing like e-bay with the gm part number.
 

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Seal

So, based on what you have found out, Ed, in order to cure my rear axle seal leaking problem, I could replace the bearings with the part number rw-509-fr? That would be the only way to stop the leaking, as it appears that no one just makes the seal for the old bearing. Would be great if I could finally get those darn things from leaking :)

I would probably get the Timken part--I make things for that company at work. I wonder if I could get a discount......haha.

Rock Auto shows the rear seal and bearings if needed. There catalog is pretty good but not always perfect . They do give a alternate part #s for a cross reference. Some of the replacement seals do combine the seal and bearing but if you only need to replace the seals they have them. If there catalog is correct.


CADILLAC CALAIS (1968 - 1969)
CADILLAC DEVILLE (1968 - 1969)
CADILLAC FLEETWOOD (1968 - 1969)
Please refer to catalog for application details.
 

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I have found that Rock Auto is great for regular cars, but not so great for the commercial chassis parts. In some instances, I know that the same part fits both regular production and commercial chassis, but Rock Auto will have no part listed for the commercial chassis, even though it is the same part. You really have to be a parts detective, and do a lot of research, and then know where to look for the part.
I found out how elusive 1968 brake parts can be, when Shawn sent me his commercial chassis master cylinder to be sleeved and rebuilt. The sleeve was the easy part, but locating a one year only master cylinder rebuild kit proved to be a difficult task. I eventually located one, but it took a few weeks. I just checked Rock Auto, and knowing that the rebuild kit is the same as the 1968 Eldorado, I checked the listing for Eldorado first, and there was no part listed. Then I checked the 1968 Commercial Chassis master cylinder rebuild kit, and they are showing 2 brands available. What they are presently showing in the catalog fits "Cadillac Commercial Chassis 1967 - 1970", which I know is wrong from my past experience. I also know that the part number in the Cadillac parts book shows that the 1968 Commercial Chassis is a one year only part. I would be very skeptical using the Rock Auto suggested part, knowing that the parts book says that the 1968 is different from the 1969 part.
 
if you get only this seal and o ring you will need to find a locking ring as you need to remove it to replace them. the number stamped on the ring on the replacement bearing we got is a509.

rock auto site is selling over stock warehouse dumped parts. I'm guessing they only list them as they are told to buy the seller, like e-bay. that is why they aren't cross referenced.

but as I said they are a reference source just like Hollanders. armed with a part number you can usually find application. if you cross it three times and it comes up the same it's a safe bet.


in Shawn's case he needs to get the replacement bearing aw509fa as it comes with the locking ring and o ring. plus the inner seal. if your getting one get two sets so you have one when the other side goes out. then press off the old and on the new.

why GM used a double seal on everything but the CC when both use the same bearing I'll never know.but reading the service manual for the 67 it says to clean out any oil and reback the bearing when changing the seal. so I'll bet the original bearing was open on the inside..

I don't pretend to be a mechanic. only what I'm forced to do on what I have here. then it's just monkey see monkey do. but just like this one I took the man the parts. he put on everything but but one slave cylinder. only charged me for what he did. I'm sure from his perspective it was more like if it ain't broke don't fix it. for sure don't get into trouble on a rusty, dirty, beat up old mouse smelling Hearse. but had the car looked like Shawn's I would have gotten both the new parts put on.

but to be fair. the thought of removing rusty bolts and lines, risking ending up going half way up the frame before you find something you can take apart. then tying up your only host for a week. as you wait for parts to come in vers ****ing of a customer you have only seen this once? maybe I would have done the same thing. me the next time I go in I will ask him to put on all the new stuff. then we will see if we ever come back.
 
will today the bearing from Rock auto final came in. the box was labeled the correct number but the bearing inside was not. it is a aw509ar. the difference is the outer face is soft rubber were the fr is steel.
 

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