Where's the fuse?

Richard Vyse

Richard Vyse

I got the Criterion out today and always check the lights to make sure they work and they did. Yet when I stopped to rescue a turtle, picture on it's way, my tunnel lights were not working. All other lights are working fine.
I've searched the rig over from top to bottom looking for a fuse with no luck. It can't be the switch since I have my front grill lights tied into it and they work.

Any ideas?
 
Are the grille lights steady burnng or flashing? If they are steady, check the flasher unit, if they flash the problem is somewhere else.
 
Russell Street said:
Are the grille lights steady burnng or flashing? If they are steady, check the flasher unit, if they flash the problem is somewhere else.
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They flash.... I just switched the power wire to the tunnel lights to another switch and the same thing, nothing. Has to be a fuse just cannot locate the darn thing.

How's this for a switch panel!

62Caddy003-1.jpg


62Caddy004-1.jpg
 
THIS IS WERE THAT 2 DOLLAR TESTER IS SO HANDY. what your looking at is a row of circuit breakers, the light will tell if you have power in and out of them. if you hooked up to the tunnel lights and the grill light to the same switch. check that connection. the circuit breaker is a self restoring fuse. it should be the only one in the system. if all the tunnel lights are out it means a open in the main wire feeding them. most likely your connection if it's a splice. if grill lights go to the terminal screw, check that crimp on the wire of the tunnel lights. 9 x out of 10 it a bad splice or a bad crimp at the terminal.
I guessing the crimp is bad on this one. there should be no in line fuse on the lights. nore under hood fuse on the model of MM.
 
I switched the power wire from my side markers to the flasher for the tunnel lights and they work. My grill lights are hooked to the same switch as the tunnel lights and they work fine.
I will trace the power line for the tunnel lights back to a point that I can make sense of. If I cannot locate why it is not working, then I will tap into the power wire for the side markers and run the tunnel lights from there.

Makes sense? Doesn't to me either. :gun1:
 
If you don't understand automotive electrical wiring, then leave it to someone that does. It might work today, but it also might go up in smoke tomorrow.
 
time to stop. go get the battery charger clip one end to ground the other to the wire of your Tunnel lights. do they light up? no, change the terminal on that wire. I don't care how it looks. change it the test it again. do they light now. if yes put it back on that switch. if not you will have to trace out that wire and find the open in it. hacking up one more power wire just to see if it works makes no since. they were working, now they are not. the circuit breaker is Ok. the other lights work off that switch. so either you blew out every tunnel light or the main lead has a open circuit. finding one more source of power still won't heal it. change the terminal end as they are a source of trouble and sometime you can't see why. then hook it back up to were it was. switch on, no light, check one of the lights is there power to the light? if not find the open. leave the rest of good circuits along and work on the one that is broken.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
time to stop. go get the battery charger clip one end to ground the other to the wire of your Tunnel lights. do they light up? no, change the terminal on that wire. I don't care how it looks. change it the test it again. do they light now. if yes put it back on that switch. if not you will have to trace out that wire and find the open in it. hacking up one more power wire just to see if it works makes no since. they were working, now they are not. the circuit breaker is Ok. the other lights work off that switch. so either you blew out every tunnel light or the main lead has a open circuit. finding one more source of power still won't heal it. change the terminal end as they are a source of trouble and sometime you can't see why. then hook it back up to were it was. switch on, no light, check one of the lights is there power to the light? if not find the open. leave the rest of good circuits along and work on the one that is broken.
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Ok boys. I traced the powerlead back to its source and it is tied in with several other wires one of which goes to the grill lights (they work). Another goes to the side lights (they work) but the one to the tunnel lights flasher is not working. So today after my morning funeral, I will take that bunch of wires apart to see what happened. I suspect the wire is broke and can easily run a new power lead if that is the case.
I had a friend over last evening who does mechanical work on all the city vehicles. He says more times than not if they have a power issue they just tap into another lead.
Keep in mind, the switch works fine because it runs the grill lights and they work. I'll find out what happened given enough time.
:cry:

Crap, I see this is Terri's account sinceI'm on her computer.
 
Ambulance Burns

I see the Florida Headlines now: Antique ambulance stops trafffic to save two turtles and several ducks crossing the road and for some reason car catches fire and burns killing the turtles but the driver and ducks survive. Driver arrested for killing endangered species, using lights without permit, driving defective vehicle, pissing off Wife, and several other offenses. Full details at 11.
 
Danny Ryder said:
I see the Florida Headlines now: Antique ambulance stops trafffic to save two turtles and several ducks crossing the road and for some reason car catches fire and burns killing the turtles but the driver and ducks survive. Driver arrested for killing endangered species, using lights without permit, driving defective vehicle, pissing off Wife, and several other offenses. Full details at 11.
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That very well may happen. Today I traced the wires and literally shook them and now I have tunnel lights once again. I re-taped all the wires and so far so good.

I had my wheels rotated and balanced and now have zero bounce at 75 mph. YEAAAA!!!!!!!!:applause: At the tire place they placed external weights on the rims only to find out the hubcaps would not go on because the weight was in the way. They had to clean the rim, rub it down with alcohol and install a stick on weight. Gotta do what you gotta do!

Spent the morning caulking the backboard box, polishing chrome, took the beacon off and polished the base, and just played with the Criterion until it started raining.

We're just about as ready for Albany as we can get.
 
Richard Vyse said:
That very well may happen. Today I traced the wires and literally shook them and now I have tunnel lights once again. I re-taped all the wires and so far so good.

I had my wheels rotated and balanced and now have zero bounce at 75 mph. YEAAAA!!!!!!!!:applause: At the tire place they placed external weights on the rims only to find out the hubcaps would not go on because the weight was in the way. They had to clean the rim, rub it down with alcohol and install a stick on weight. Gotta do what you gotta do!

Spent the morning caulking the backboard box, polishing chrome, took the beacon off and polished the base, and just played with the Criterion until it started raining.

We're just about as ready for Albany as we can get.
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I call them weights "Cadillac weights". Most people don't know what those are anymore. I got some stashed back for myself. I hope you kept the old ones as hard to get but sometimes see a few on ebay. GM at least used these from sixties to seventies but don't know exact years. Your fix works ok usually but hope a judge at PCS meet don't look under there and see wrong wheel weights. :4_11_9:
 
but were they official MM suction cups?? the tape weight would be OK. at least those guys were sharp enough to not just add it all on the rear of the wheel.
I told you you had a open in the circuit wigging the wires just close it not fixed it. still bet it the terminal on the end
 
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