Twin 184's at last!!!

I just set the 184's up the roof after removing the middle one to see how they look. I like it!. Still need to add the siren speakers after I locate angled mounts.

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Skirts need trimming ...

The skirts need to be trimmed to level up the beacons before you bolt them down. The correct installation will have the top of the lens level to the ground.
 
The skirts need to be trimmed to level up the beacons before you bolt them down. The correct installation will have the top of the lens level to the ground.

Just sent Ed an email asking for advice on how to trim a skirt. Hope to have a check headed in your direction Brady for the pump and hope to be able to pick it up within 30 days or so.
 
I like the look of the twin 184's, we had a 74 Superior High Top at the FD (before my time) that had twin 184's. Can't wait to see them finished Richard.:boo:
 
Looks Great!

Those twin 184's look great Richard...but then I'm biased because of my Lifeliner. Did you get them off ebay? I noticed that they have the original Federal lenses as well with the stepped top.

As for trimming the skirts, I know that Cliff Bergum has done that in the past as well. I think he used a Dremel tool and went very slow. Not sure how MM did the cutting but I'm sure they used a template as a guide. Perhaps consider making a cardboard template of the base to work at getting the correct angle so that the top of the lense sits level as Brady commented. Once you get the template correct you could use this as a marking guide prior to trimming.

Let us know how you make out.
 
Richard, Jerry Jacobsen told me about a method of trimming beacon skirts last month in Flint that sounded good. He uses a compass (the kind you used to draw circles with in geometry class). You should contact him for the specifics as I'm not sure I have the method exactly right at this late hour! Basically you level the light on the roof w/ some blocks or somthing sturdy underneath the beacon, then use the compass to trace the roofline, marking the skirt at the same time. Obviously you need to mark the "uphill" side of the skirt, since that's where you'll cut an ellipse to make it level. Glad you finally found a pair!
 
Richard, Jerry Jacobsen told me about a method of trimming beacon skirts last month in Flint that sounded good. He uses a compass (the kind you used to draw circles with in geometry class). You should contact him for the specifics as I'm not sure I have the method exactly right at this late hour! Basically you level the light on the roof w/ some blocks or somthing sturdy underneath the beacon, then use the compass to trace the roofline, marking the skirt at the same time. Obviously you need to mark the "uphill" side of the skirt, since that's where you'll cut an ellipse to make it level. Glad you finally found a pair!

I couldn't have described it better.:cheers:
 
Just sent Ed an email asking for advice on how to trim a skirt. Hope to have a check headed in your direction Brady for the pump and hope to be able to pick it up within 30 days or so.

These need to be 184-H models to have a skirt long enough to trim correctly for your roof. Note that the lamp assemblies are mismatched, and the labels indicate they are 1975-or-newer models. To make your car look as good (and original) as it can, I would suggest holding out for a pair of 184-H beacons. I'll keep my eyes out, but they're not easy to find. Good luck!

One suggestion would be to find a salvage 1971-76 M-M or C/B 54" with a pair of these beacons already on it. The chances are slim, but they can be found. The last time I was in Warrenton, MO, there was a '72 Cotington 54 in a trucking company yard on the north side of I-70 with a pair of these.

Beacon skirts, by the way, were usually trimmed using tin snips (per suggestion in the Federal instructions!).
 
those have been trimmed a lot. Robert had a pattern for the holes. not a lot of guessing for them and once you get the holes were you want the light then you can put the crush nuts in the roof and run the ready rods (all thread) in. then run a set of nuts on them to level the skits with. then just move it down till it touches on the high side. I used a level to set them even to the floor and laid a marker pen flat on the roof walked it around the skirt. I did not think I could hold a compass square enough. if you had something flat to hold it on maybe. but as I had never done any before I did not mind slipping it on and trimming it 4 or 5 times to get it all around. there brass and not easy to cut so I used a disk grinder to work it off. but it would be something you had to be comfortable using. they are easy to distort. it would look to me like there is not enough room to trim these skirts and keep the motor under them. but first get you rods in place then put the motor on leave it. then the skirt goes on top if the motor. I think as low as you can go is 4 inches. the motor will go to the out side. clearance between the last nut and the light is tight so you normally will trim the rod off after you get it all together. one could maybe find a deeper seal and still use these if your short a inch or so on the long side.picture should be right if you print it full page.
 

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Thanks everyone. I'm not period correct and like hwta I like, after all thatis what matters, isn't it? I know the skirts are a bit short and will think this through before just cutting. My observation is they will work if I adjust the position of the motor to the outside position. :3some:
 
After reviewing Ed's email giving me detailed instructions on mounting these, I'm confident they will work and look great!!!! New gaskets are on order and hope to have them on by the Emergency Show in Ocala on April 17th.
 
Got them from another PCS member along with two siren speakers. Very thankful for their help and for selling them to me.
:thankyou2:

Those twin 184's look great Richard...but then I'm biased because of my Lifeliner. Did you get them off ebay? I noticed that they have the original Federal lenses as well with the stepped top.

As for trimming the skirts, I know that Cliff Bergum has done that in the past as well. I think he used a Dremel tool and went very slow. Not sure how MM did the cutting but I'm sure they used a template as a guide. Perhaps consider making a cardboard template of the base to work at getting the correct angle so that the top of the lense sits level as Brady commented. Once you get the template correct you could use this as a marking guide prior to trimming.

Let us know how you make out.
 
I wish to extend a most heartfelt "THANK YOU" to Larry Wilson for selling me the beacons and speakers. As you know I have searched quite a while for these items and appreciate him doing this for me. As I'm told, Larry does not sell his stuff so I'm honored.
Thanks Larry and glad to hear you, Nick, and the two Steve's had a good time in rainy Florida. We certainly had a great time with you especially eating B-B-q at the farm. :burp:

"What we have here is a failure to communicate!"
 
the far left one for sure and the center on maybe. the the far right is to short to trim again. you'll have to mount it center on in the back.
 
These need to be 184-H184-H beacons. I'll keep my eyes out, but they're not easy to find.

I know the 184-H's are hard to locate and love these. Spent about an hour at the house measuring and setting up one to see if I have enough skirt. Took the beacon apart, set bolts in place then set on top of the car. Got it where I think it should be and leveled. Took measurements from there and with the rubber gasket, it will work leaving a smiggen of room. It will be low with a low skirt, more like a mini-skirt (get it) but it will be level and operating. The motor will be just a hair off the roof. I will go to work on one this evening. Worse comes to worse I'll have a few holes to patch. :stars:
 
If the motor hits, you can always take a hammer to the roof and hammer in a depression for the motor... :pat:
 
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