Power steering gearbox...

D

Dana Bennett

PCS Life Member
Yup.... MORE questions!!! Sorry!! Can't help it, my coach needs LOTS of help!!!

THIS time I am asking about the power steering gearbox. Just to refresh, I have a 1976 Superior Cadillac (with Hydro boost brakes if that matters?).
I need to have my coach pass NY State safety inspection and I'm pretty sure it will not pass as even after using a power steering sealer it is still leaking.

I am certain (how ever will double check again!) that the leak is coming from the top of the gearbox, a square plate with 4 bolts (all are tight) and a adjuster? in the middle (I do not know if this plate has a name or what it might be). I think it leaks more when I am turning, such as when I manuver back and forth to jocky my car over as far to one side of my girlfriends garage as possible.

I am guessing that it may be wiser to just replace this gearbox than to try to replace the leaking seal, am I right or am I wrong?? To repair the seal wouldn't the gearbox need to be removed anyway??

I am getting prices for the gearbox (remanufactured) between $130 and $170 or a seal kit between $30 and $75.

How hard is it to R&R the gearbox?? I am thinking it would probably be something I will let a shop do but not sure.

I am also assuming the gearbox is the same whether or not the car has a vaccuum power brake booster or Hydro-boost like mine??

Thanks for any input!! I'm kind of in a rush to get this done and have it pass NY inspection so I can drive it to the meet!!

Dana Bennett.
 
How hard it is to replace, depends on your mechanical skills and the tools that you have. You will need to remove the pitman arm from the steering box, and that requires a pitman arm puller. You will also need to disconnect the steering column from the gear box, and that takes a little bit of experience to get it back in the correct position. Then comes the hard part.. getting the box loose from the frame. If the bolts are rusted, then it is going to be a bear of a job. It isn't one that I would want to do, unless I had all the tools handy, a lift, and lots of time to do it. I suggest that you take it to a shop for them to do the repair. In the end, it might sound expensive, but it will be less expensive than if you mess it up, and have to pay someone to fix your mistakes.
 
if it's leaking at the top plate and other then the leak it operates fine. i would first try a new gasket. there should be a gasket under the top plate and the housing. if it's leaking from the shaft that a different seal all together.
 
You do not want to replace the gear box unless you really know what you're doing. I had mine replaced on the 73 Lifeliner and I think the guy is still not talking to me.

It's a job in a very tight area. Best of luck.
 
ok, One of my brothers will be doing the job sometime next week. However he insists that he repair it rather than replace it. He told me to pick up a "Adjuster cap seal set" , does anyone know IF one is available and where to get it?? The only way I can see to get the gasket is to buy the whole complete rebuild kit.

I still think the only way to replace the gasket for the adjuster cap is to either remove the gearbox or remove the drivers side exhaust manifold for access. I don't know if the cap will just unbolt , come off and back on with the new gasket or not. I have not found an exploded view of the gearbox but would like to see one.

I do think the only problem with the box is this leaking top gasket under the adjuster cap. I also don't think that should the box need to be removed from its location that it will be very hard to unbolt from the frame as rust underneath the car is not an issue, nice and clean!!! However I would think that trying to remove the exhaust manifold would be the bigger problem!!

We shall see what happens!!
and of course I will post how it went, hopefully well!!!

Thanks,
Dana.
 
I certainly hope that he has a lot of experience rebuilding the steering gear box, because if he doesn't and he doesn't get the adjustments exactly correct, the chrome ball bearings will be destroyed, along with the rest of the parts inside. Once this happens, the box isn't rebuild-able, except with all new parts. Look up the procedures in your Cadillac Shop Manual, read them carefully, and decide for yourself. This is why most dealerships only had one person doing the steering gear box work, and if they didn't have a competent person to do them, they sent them out to a specialist. It is one of the most delicate an operations that will ever be performed on your vehicle.
 
While your at it replace the hydraulic lines and hoses as well! If one of those blows and ruptures and the power steering fluid hits a hot engine and exhaust manifold you will have a big piece of charcoal! On the removal exhaust manifold you run a chance of snapping off the bolts in the head if they have never been removed before. Trust me I know! If they snap off and leave a 1/2 to an inch of the bolt sticking out don't panic, you can remove them using a 1 inch pipe wrench turning the bolt a little bit each way as you remove it along with using some kind of creeper/penetrating oil while doing so. Be patient and take your time doing this too. But if the snap off flush with the head you have a problem and they will have to be machined out. After the bolts are removed chase the treads out with the appropriate tap and die tool as well to make reinstallation easer and use a high temp copper antiseize on the new bolts as well. This will make installation of new exhaust manifold gaskets easer next time you have to install a pair of them. Also be sure to drain the steering system and use all new correct fresh fluid as well.
 
Job completed

I do understand the concerns about working on the gearbox, but actually this turned out to not really be bad at all.

My brother Brad came out yesterday and he had it done in about 2 hours or so.

This was only removing the adjuster cap and replacing that gasket (needed to buy complete kit at $28 to get the one needed gasket).

here is what he did...

1. Jacked up the front end and placed on jack stands
2. placed jack w/wooden block under oil pan and jacked up engine slightly,
removed both drivers side motor mount bolts and then jacked engine
up more in order to access adjuster cap.
3. removed nut on adjuster (new nut came with kit)
4. unbolted adjuster cap and then had to rotate cap as the
adjuster is threaded thru the cap
5. remove gasket and replace with new one, metal around the outside
and rubber in the inside with upward lip that goes into cap and metal tabs that fold onto cap to hold gasket in place
6. reassemble in reverse order (adjuster stud was never turned)
7. also replaced the return lines as they were in pretty bad shape

Still have to road test and time test but hope this has taken care of the leaking gearbox, but now I'm thinking it may also be slightly leaking at the front of the pump, oye-vay, will it ever end???!!! hehehe!

Dana Bennett.
 
Standard steering box on '73 Cadillac?

Is the steering box on a '73 Commercial Chassis the same as a regular '73 Cadillac steering box?

The steering box on my Lifeliner is leaking and the mechanic said it needs a rebuild.

Any help appreciated. Thanks.
 
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