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John ED Renstrom

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We are waiting for someone else to finish their task on my 72 ambulance. So while we wait, we'll be cleaning up on the other cars. I got the Armbruster cleaned up, the siren was working, I touched up a few spots, sealed the windshield leak( knock on wood), and aired the tires and spare. Ran the buffer over to pick up a few marks in its hide. The other 72 is next. I got the usual over-the-glass rust showing up in front, but the aftermarket top is shrinking. I have the correct moldings for it. The car started out with a crinkle top. So, thinking of going back with one. We'll see when I get it off. Then there is the damage I did moving it out that one winter. John pushed the dent out for me when he did the hail repair. We need to get it painted. So it's up next. Just keeping busy till my limousine style gets its heart transplant completed.IMG_0222.jpgIMG_0223.jpgIMG_0224.jpgIMG_0225.jpg
 
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We got the top peeled off. A few surprises as normal. There was some repair made on it before that put the top on found two large hail dents that had not been touched. Don't know if it was what prompted the repaint and the top or not. that one is a large dent. Been using a razor blade to get the glue off. Here is hoping the left side is not as rough as the right. Funny i never noticed that big dent. Don't even remembering feeling it.IMG_0231.jpgIMG_0232.jpgIMG_0233.jpgIMG_0234.jpgIMG_0235.jpgIMG_0236.jpgIMG_0238.jpg
 
We got the top peeled off. A few surprises are normal. Some repair was made to it before they put the top on, and they found two large hail dents that had not been touched. Don't know if it was what prompted the repaint and the top or not. That one is a large dent. Been using a razor blade to get the glue off. Here is hoping the left side is not as rough as the right. Funny, I never noticed that big dent.
 
Been working on things between the daily living stuff, and made a little progress. Shot some primer yesterday just because I could. Made me feel better. The key to a successful rust repair is not to rush. Heat is your best friend. But in this case, pulling the windshield was not a safe option. The headline we could do. So, I elected to do the chemical conversion. You must allow time for the converter to work. Found all the pin holes with the hook. Ice pick works will also. Used the suction sprayer to coat the inside through the zipper in the headliner. Getting chemicals on both sides is necessary. Then allow 24 hr time for it to work, wash it off, and reapply. Same wait. Before cleaning up and filling. I used the short strand fiberglass filler to cover the holes and finished up with regular filler to smooth things up. We are going to put a krinkle top on like it originally had, so sand scratches are not a worry.

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So it was one side at a time with the top. I have no idea what products were put on it. But one of them was as hard as a rock. I did want to get off the old krinkle. They had knocked it down and primed over it in places. Done some repairs, but I could not tell, and some hail had not been touched. One of the products was like a rock to sand. But right now we are in primer. That's what counts.

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Lazy day, fixed my clipped door handle, oops. The next step is to block sand primer on the top with 180 and get the door jams painted. Looking for someone to mix me some Lacquer. This car still has it, and their repaint was in lacquer. Would like to spot it if I could. On the second shot, you see some red filler that was from the last repaint on the car. To mix me some Lacquer. This car still has it, and their repaint was in lacquer.




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The problem is that lacquer isn't the same today as it was 30 or 40 years ago. I had some lacquer mixed for my car, and I saved a quart for touch-up should it ever be needed. Not many painters know how to spray lacquer, adding to the problem.
 
The 200 bucks a quart is another factor, but still cheaper than most base clear products. TCP Global says they can mix it. There is a lot of damage along the molding. Some checking on the top of one fin. They put plenty of product down in a spot that is tough to buff, then drilled a number of holes for riveting the trim on. Of course, none where they are needed for the original trim.
 
Try a quart of base clear and assorted products to complete the task. You can get off the shelf colors for 44.00 from Dupla color. But not matching colors.
 
Found a couple more things that need to be done. Got it blocked off with the long board. No real surprises on the roof. If we were painting with anything different, there would be a need for more work. But we are not. Going to have to do something with the dividing line between the top and the body. The paint is thick and brittle, chipping off, and we need to fill a dozen holes on each side. So bite the bullet and get it done. Found rust inside the upper rear door frame where it had run down and under the top and the door glass. It was wicking water at the top. So pulled the glass out to pull the frame out to clean that up. Then, I sanded down to the tape line. Hope to get everything back in primer and the jams painted black today. Visited my other 72 after Kandy no change, put more promises.



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Finally, we are back in primer, and the jams have been redone in flat black. The blue top with the black and blue jams never looked right to me. Found one more problem spot, but it is an easy repair. The pillar molding had trapped water in it. Luckily, only surface stuff treated it. You can see the buildup of paint on the rear handle and lock. This is what caused the checking on the left side. Were they got it to the lead with power and hollowed it out. Build up a primer to the level. Finally, we are back in primer, and the jams have been redone in flat black. The blue top with the black and blue jams never looked right to me. Found one more problem spot, but it is an easy repair. The pillar molding had trapped water in it. Luckily, only surface stuff treated it. You can see the buildup of paint on the rear handle and lock. This is what caused the checking on the left side. I always lead by hand. The paint paddle wrap works best.





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Had a decent day yesterday. The key moments in the repair are reattaching the glass and installing the weather stripping. Working with stiff old rubber is not much fun. The WD-40 trick is an easy and quick way to salvage those grommets that are no longer available. Spray it down before you pull the glass, which will soften it back up and allow you to remove it and replace it. Don't be afraid to use it. If it's split, the urethane will glue it back together and allow the glass to seal. You do that after it's back in place or before the WD is used. Your choice there. To clean the aluminum extrusions, use a brass brush and soap. Mix it with some elbow grease. Tim, we did use up that leftover weather strip from the 70s. Thanks for leaving it. Now, if only I could remember which way the 45 is cut, that job would go faster. I use Weldwood contact cement, applying a layer to the rubber and another to the body. Let it set up and press it into place. The guerrilla super glue to put the Corners together.


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We decided that as long as we're going to paint, we could clean up this mess in the back. There is quite a mess in the car's quarters. They have a significant buildup of primer and a little spot of putty, all of which leads to both sides checking. As long as we have the paint, let's do the whole back and be done with it. With luck, it should be here this weekend. They laid the primer on thick. We stripped the panel with 80-grit sandpaper and only cut through the original paint in one spot. The insides of the quarters are lead, so you need to be careful sanding or you will cut into the lead. Gulf green isn't the only place that devits are bad in.




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