GM door/lock guidance needed

A

Attila Bethlenfalvy

Story: *Really* stuck rear loading door (inside as well), be it rust or latch but probably a combination (pun intended) of both. Enough is shown here to figure out year/coach builder:

dsc03736b.jpg


Mission: Most efficient means of getting door to open. Door is shot anyway and can be destroyed in process. Only hand tools (including metal chisels) and a 18v Sawzall will be present. Prefer not to damage fiberglass sail panel if possible.

Rear loading door glass can't be removed without overcoming this hurdle. Corner glass can probably be removed as is with two people but opening door becomes less risky.

Now who wants to draw on this picture with incisions like a surgeon, followed by instructions? ;)
 
If ya don't want to damage the door you can go at it from the inside by removing the door panel and working on the latch that way. If not I'd just cut a big A hole under the handle from outside!
 
Eh. That thought did cross my mind as an option Jeremy. Entire blue/gray rear compartment is in pretty decent reusable shape though after a good cleaning. Rear loading door inner panel won't simply pop off a stuck door - I'd destroy it removing.

Since the complete bottom of rear loading door has already rotted out, even if it takes a little longer, going through exterior should still prove the least invasive means of entry (ie not killing other parts).

This '61 sits at least 3/4 mile from entrance; all hilly terrain, no vehicles permitted. Then another 3/4 mile to the next coach I need to pull glass out of for a PCS member. Maybe additional pieces in other parts of yard as well. Add in low temps and a 5 hour window to get everything done... :snow2_smi:
 
if the bottom of the door is all ready rotten, start there and zip your way up to the handle. if you can get the blade in lat it as flat as possible tool to the taillight blade to the center. saw up at the pinch weld. door is rotten it may go fast. a good new short metal saw blade with as fine a teeth as you can get is what you need. the out side remote is a plunger not hooked to the latch. the lock is with a rod. but first and for most slide up in side and see if you can pull the lock up. inside handle on this one is a rod to. but if the lock is stuck half way you will have to trip it to get it to unlatch. this is the drivers side but its the same
[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GjK-mNV-fhY[/ame]
 
My loading door handles, inside and out were stuck solid when I got my coach. A friend suggested I SATURATE the entire latch mechanism with some stuff I had not heard of before... PB Blaster! After soaking and setting for about 20 minutes, the inside handle started to wiggle and a short time later I was able to release the latch from either side.

$.02
 
one of the things nice about a superior is they left you enough holes to be able to get the spray were it need to go. most are just stuck with old grease and dirt not rust. in this case presented salvaging the door is not necessary. the biggest mistake most people make is not cutting a big enough hole to get in and do what you want. on this car the hardest part is the latch is hidden under the up right piece for the top. since the latch is about 6 inches lower then the handle just below the outside lock starring you cut up around the handle to get down may leave you stranded if you brake the blade on your saw. if you can start on the lower corner and the bottom is all ready rusted threw by the time you brake the blade you may have opened it up enough to pull the skin back and reach up to trip the latch. if the yard was close enough so that you could go out one day and spray the latch then back another after it has had time to work and the weather was cooperating for you I would definitely try that first. but if your half a days drive away a long hike to in crappy weather your options are limited. here is a shot to just give you an idea were the latch is located in relation to the handle and lock
 

Attachments

  • IMG_6614a looks Ok.jpg
    IMG_6614a looks Ok.jpg
    84.1 KB · Views: 311
Ran in to this problem with the new parts car. I soaked the latch down with PB--Blaster the night before last, and yesterday started working the latch from the inside, and got lucky, and it popped open. Now I just got to get the pasenger side rear door to open.

Josh
 
that is the other thing to try as a lot of the time the inside remote is on a different leaver. it will trip the latch were the out side one won't. a stiff old latch, if one guy holds the inside remote and one tugs the out side handle at the same time will open a lot of them even if locked. you can watch the lock knob inside and if it starts to come up when you work the inside handle its set that way. but even then if the lock leaver won't fall over it won't trip. working the handle and the lock knob at the same time may be enough to get it to fall in place. work for a half hr cutting into the door and reach up and try the handle and it opens. or finally get in and it take about a second to reach in and trip it. really makes you feel foolish. but hay that's the joy of old iron. the 72 Seville has no inside knob. they left the rod in place and just pushed it over then covered it with the trim pad. I finally got it off enough on the top to remove the out side handle and reach in threw that hole and trip the latch. work for two hr and then reach in and it's open. you hear that click and all you feel is relief
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top