Happy for you that you got it installed without too much effort. A couple suggestions for the future. Always start with a clean engine, by spraying the engine with a degreasing agent, such as Oil Eater Cleaner and Degreaser ($9.99 at Tractor Supply or Simple Green, Gunk, etc.) and a pressure washer. A clean engine is a lot easier to work on than a greasy engine, and it will help you to determine where the oil that you have removed is coming from. Most likely, looking at your engine, your valve covers are leaking, and need to have the gaskets replaced.
The second suggestion is that if you cut the heads off of 2 spare bolts that are the same thread as the bolts, and finger tightly screw them into the block, you can then slide the fuel pump over them, and put a nut onto one of the studs to hold the pump. Then remove the other stud, and replace it with the original bolt and tighten it slightly. Then remove the remaining stud, the one with the nut on it, and replace that one with the second original bolt. Tighten both bolts evenly to the proper torque, and you have now successfully installed your new fuel pump with ease.
When installing fuel pumps, I like to start the fuel line to the carburetor in the pump prior to installing the pump, since it lessens the chances of cross threading the fitting. Once I have the pump secured loosely on the studs, I then install the other end of the steel fuel line to the carburetor, being very careful not to cross thread that fitting. The large nut that the fuel line threads into on the carburetor is threaded into the carburetor with very fine threads (40 threads per inch approximately), and you have to be very careful replacing that when you service the filter that is in the carburetor. Many times those nuts have been cross threaded, and that will ruin your day when you can't stop the leak at that fitting. I know of instances, where the entire carburetor becomes worthless as a result of that fitting being cross threaded.
