Doing a little exploration

Jean-Marc Dugas

PCS Member
Before I place the floor extension back in place I took a few moments to see what is behind the access hole ths\at is located at the base of where the M Cylinder would be.

Interesting to note that there is no protection against the oxygen tubing rubbing against the metal. I also found some rust spots that will have to be addressed at a later time. In order to access this area properly, I will have to remove the cabinets which looks like something for this winter.

Question for those who have more experience than me, once I have the area exposed and the rust cleaned up the best I can, would you recommend applying rust proofing to the whole area i.e. Ziebart type stuff or just rust paint?

 
video no workee.
Wander thru Homer Desperate or Blows and eyeball jugs of Concrete/metal conditioner in the paint department for Phosphoric acid compounds and get a jug. (Jasco if memory serves)
Phosphoric is the working component in most rust coatings/converters and paints in the overpriced sucker market.
Phosphoric is also a major ingredient in CocaCola so don't get nervous.

At concentration around 5% depending on the steel alloy Phosphoric will CONVERT rust, providing you allow it time to do the conversion and keep it wet until the acid penetrates the rust to good steel. Concentrations above 10% will dissolve rust leaving clean steel behind.. Phosphoric will NOT damage good steel.

Phosphoric conversion leaves a coating of Iron Phosphate behind that is chemically bonded to the steel. This layer is an excellent substitute primer for enamel coatings.


WARNING- Phosphoric will dissolve aluminum fast.

Rustoleum rusty metal primer after the Phosphoric drys.
 
video no workee.
Wander thru Homer Desperate or Blows and eyeball jugs of Concrete/metal conditioner in the paint department for Phosphoric acid compounds and get a jug. (Jasco if memory serves)
Phosphoric is the working component in most rust coatings/converters and paints in the overpriced sucker market.
Phosphoric is also a major ingredient in CocaCola so don't get nervous.

At concentration around 5% depending on the steel alloy Phosphoric will CONVERT rust, providing you allow it time to do the conversion and keep it wet until the acid penetrates the rust to good steel. Concentrations above 10% will dissolve rust leaving clean steel behind.. Phosphoric will NOT damage good steel.

Phosphoric conversion leaves a coating of Iron Phosphate behind that is chemically bonded to the steel. This layer is an excellent substitute primer for enamel coatings.


WARNING- Phosphoric will dissolve aluminum fast.

Rustoleum rusty metal primer after the Phosphoric drys.
Thanks Walter. I do not understand why the videos are not working. Must be something in the settings.

However, if you right-clicking on the black video and chose the "Copy Video URL" option, you can then paste the URL into your browser to see the video.
 
I just did some troubleshooting on the forums, and I believe that I found the problem. Then I went to the Xenforo website, and found a patch to correct the problem. All should be well now. The video is playing for me at this present time. Paul
 
Yes like walt said. Thanks for the tip on were to get the converter cheaper. Paying the 25 bucks a guart is expensive. A small chipping hammer will clean out the heavy stuff before you appy the converter.
 
I can't emphasize enough the key to converting it complete wetting. Knock off the cornflakes with a chipper and then keep the patch of rust wet. It didn't rust overnight and it sure won't convert overnight.

Cover & coat products completely disregard the need for time for the acid to do its work. Most are off label uses of polymeric marine coatings designed & built for TEMPORARY repair of ocean equipment.

Phosphoric acid is cheap and readily available if you stay outside of the Lab Supply path. It gets really cheap if you get into the agricultural use market, especially if lettuce is grown in your area. You can also buy 85% concentration on ebay and dilute to use.
 
I've been privileged to have associated with a man who spent over 40 years discovering what can be done with and to rust including electroplating it on to and off objects. It all started with Phosphoric and grew from there, including a Mr Coffee machine vaporizing Phosphoritc inside a giant poly sack for 48 hours to convert a Globe car hoist that had become a machinery trailer. Throw in molasses tanks, and 8 years of quality cussin trying to find the filter media to run a plating tank without the scum on top that turned into a tank that not only has no scum it also triples efficiency by removing the iron oxide from the electrolyte. I even made beggin runs for broken truck springs cause we ran out of rusty iron to play with.

JohnEd you didn't hear it from me, but shy away from paper towels and use old undershirts, 100% cotton. Find yourself an IV bottle or even bag to fill with acid and enclose in a plastic bag if possible. Nice adjustable flow rate.

Whatever you do with Rust, stay away from Muriatic Acid and Vinegar. Both eat good steel.
For additional information https://pubs.acs.org/doi/abs/10.1021/ie50174a010

Stay away from commercial products like POR and Evaporust, they're way too expensive. Evaporust is actually an aluminum wheel cleaner created for the trucking industry. POR is essentially latex house paint with Phosphoric added.
Soda blasting is for removing soft deposits like ancient hardened grease. The rust removal world has been a series of fads over the last 15 years with a lot of people throwing money away.
 
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