A/C condensor replacement

I got a price for Richard of $300 for a 30 pound cylinder delivered directly to him in Florida, from a licensed R12 recycling facility.
 
you don't get in a hurry you can get them for around 20 bucks a can. it may take you awhile but there is plenty out there . i got a case last year for the cars at that figure. they sell R-12 at the parts store here for 50 buck a can.
 
The R-12 class for Albany has been cancelled... Here is an open book test and the book is online, free to download. The book is also in a popup window during the test. How to become an EPA certified A/C & Refrigeration Technician.... http://www.epatest.com/
 
climate Control

This reminds me of a customer that wanted climate control in rear compartment as in front in a 1970 Cadillac ambulance. Designed rear compartment with it's own transducer,control arm,electric programmer. The system was controlled with vacuum to move temperature door. I had to know all the voltages programmer told transducer to move door. To many years have passed to remember all details.
But I do remember that all air reheated this is where compressor operates to dehumidify heated air. This temp is determined programmer setting.
Wish I could remember more.

Tom Pinner...Pinner Coach Co. 1958 - 1971
Hi Richard! I have substantial automotive air conditioning experience and having read most of the posts here, everyone is making good points. Perhaps the three I'd like to emphasize are these:

1) Paul is correct. The physical characteristics of R-134a are that it requires a larger condenser to give equal condensing to the R-12 condenser. (The condenser takes the high-pressure, high-temperature refrigerant gas from the compressor and removes heat to change the refrigerant back to a liquid.)

Along the same lines, the molecule of R-134a is a smaller molecule than R-12. As such, special refrigerant hoses are necessary to keep the molecule from seeping out through the hose material. Typically, the hoses are made of Parflex.... more of a plastic than a rubber.

2) Our cars from that period are notorious leakers of air around doors, etc. Any leaks of incoming warm air will only work against the attempts of the a/c system to cool. Seal those leaks!

3) I have a '76 S&S hearse, and the a/c of the '75 would be the same. There are times that GM, much like Ford with their "better ideas" doesn't do the consumer any favors. To this day, even on modern cars, I deplore automatic air conditioning. Give me manual a/c of '63 and older ANY day. Most of the guts controlling the '75 system are located below the glove box and need to be set up correctly in order to give satisfactory results. Robinair even manufactured a diagnostic device to test vacuum and electronics of our cars ('74-'76). I've seen these on ebay, so keep an eye out. In short, the programmer senses interior temperature and tells a transducer to move a control arm in or out to control a damper, warmer-colder. It is possible that at max-cold setting, the arm, which is adjustable, is not fully extended (or retracted, I don't remember which) to give max-cooling. If the system is in otherwise good condition (full of refrigerant, etc) you can get on your knees on the passenger side, open the panel beneath the glove box, and see if the control arm is adjusted fully out (or in).

One last comment about the compressor. The GM A-6 compressor used on this car is a workhorse compressor used since 1962 and is a GREAT compressor, my personal favorite. They have 6 cylinders, great compression, an oil sump to keep the components lubricated, and are relatively inexpensive and still easily available. I would NEVER consider changing to an "updated" style compressor in my '76. I hope this helps. Tom

www.bippusautostorage.com/cars
 
secondary fan installation

Tell me more about the pusher fan and how that is set up.

I took the fan out of a 2008 Nissan Altima that was wrecked and I installed a relay off of the plug going to the a/c compressor clutch, and off of the fuse box under the hood, I put a 20 amp in the blank spot to pick up the relay's supply. So when I turn on the a/c, the relay kicks the fan on. The fan shroud is pretty shallow and doesn't seem to affect the cooling by the thermal clutch operated fan, pulling air through. It flatout moves the air and with the secondary fan on my temp doesn't climb above 198 F. I was able to bolt it on by drilling two holes at each end of the radiator support brackets and running a thin piece of flat stock across the front of the radiator then I lined up where I needed to drill holes for mounting the fan and installed 5/16" carriage bolts through the flat stock with the stud ends sticking out the front the bolted the studs solid the slid the fan over the bolts, with extra rubber washers and tightened them down to secure the top of the fan and on the side I had a short piece of stock I bent and put a bolt through it to hold the fan secure and a third piece of flat stock from the center support to the fourth bolt on the fan. The wires I ran through the hole in the front and up to the fuse box on the fenderwell, then ran the relay wire around the harness and up to the a/c compressor and the relay I put on the fenderwell.
 
I got a price for Richard of $300 for a 30 pound cylinder delivered directly to him in Florida, from a licensed R12 recycling facility.


FORANE REFRIGERANT PURE VIRGIN R-12 AC 30 POUNDS opening bid $450.

Price differantial is because what I found for you is recycled, not virgin. Virgin always cost more!! :badbad:
 
A friend of mine, said his dad had bought a pallet of R-12 in the 30 pound containers before the price went up. He said somebody broke in his shop and stole them and more stuff. He said they were found later in the dumpster. :gun2_smi:
 
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