1969 right front fender-- maybe pair?

Rocky Fluegge

Rocky Fluegge

PCS Member
Due to when I had my hearse out at a Halloween thing last night it got hit. So now I'm in need of a clean right fender. But if some one has a clean left I could be game for a pair if I'm swapping. Thanks
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20141101_223702964.jpg
    IMG_20141101_223702964.jpg
    94.7 KB · Views: 170
You will need to do your looking in the desert south-west, as all you will find anywhere else in this country will have the typical lower fender rot issues. Be prepared for big $ as the '69/'70 fenders had rust issues while they were still under warranty.
 
Kurt Arends said:
You will need to do your looking in the desert south-west, as all you will find anywhere else in this country will have the typical lower fender rot issues. Be prepared for big $ as the '69/'70 fenders had rust issues while they were still under warranty.
Click to expand...

I can attest to that Kurt,

I would grab that one on E-Bay in a heartbeat !!!

69/70 fenders go for BIG bucks *if* you can locate any without the lower rot issues...

I was able to find a very clean pair for 1 of my 70's from San Jose CA (after looking for 5 months) for $1800 pair,and that was a "discount" from the $2200 the seller was asking.:rolleyes:
 
Thanks for the heads up on it. I guess the guy that hit me wants to run it through his insurance. So im going to see how this all goes
 
Regardless of who pays for it, you still need to find a fender. I would be pro-active on this as his claim adjuster sure isn't going to be able to find one!
 
Fenders

Regardless of who pays for it, you still need to find a fender. I would be pro-active on this as his claim adjuster sure isn't going to be able to find one!
Click to expand...

Local self serve yard has a 70, Lt / Rt needs typical bottom repair and Rt has a push both fixable $40.00 each +Tx and some labor money. I can pull them. This yard some of the stuff is ok on price and other things I think they make it up as you walk in.
 

Attachments

  • DSC02939.jpg
    DSC02939.jpg
    95.2 KB · Views: 154
  • DSC02940.jpg
    DSC02940.jpg
    86.7 KB · Views: 159
  • DSC02941.jpg
    DSC02941.jpg
    97.2 KB · Views: 156
  • DSC02942.jpg
    DSC02942.jpg
    93.6 KB · Views: 157
  • DSC02943.jpg
    DSC02943.jpg
    84 KB · Views: 154
  • DSC02944.jpg
    DSC02944.jpg
    89 KB · Views: 153
Last edited:
now me I would just pull that one. chain and a power pole will have it out in no time. if you got to fix on a fender you might as will fix the one you got. we can find you a complete nose but the man will want at least a grand.
 
Rocky,
I have a good front half. It has the usual lower rust. As a member you can have for free, freight only, let me know. Send a PM.
Thanks
Gus
 
I made a deal and now own the fender that was on ebay. Im having a friend of mine in Detroit go and pick it up from the guy. The guy that has the fender will not ship or even taking it to grey hound. So my buddie will pick it up and put it on the bus for me. Thanks again for the heads up on it. And thank you for the offers on the others you guys are great!!!!! that's what I love about this club ever one is so helpful.

Now it looks like the adjuster is coming over on Friday to look at the car. We will see how this all goes??? I have great insurance through grundy, so if they mess me around I will just call my own insurance but would rather not put a claim into mine if I do not need too.
 
nice to have the spare. you get settled on this when you drop the bumper and pull the trim off give it a tug first. if you don't have a dozer, a come along and a post is all you'll need to pull that fender when it's still on the car. they are surprisingly easy to put right back in shape but only if it's still bolted on the car. you need to do it whether you replace or not to keep from fighting the inner fender and the radiator support when you go back together. as they will be tweaked just a little. just toss the hook in the opening on the bottom and tug away. you work the dent with the pull still one it will come back to shape easily. you can't find a hole just weld a tap on the bottom and use a clamp. bolt a loose hank of chain or a plate with a hole on it to the bottom of the fender anything to get a firm hold of the lower side and be able to tug it out and up. if the one on the car is not rusty you might save yourself some painting and matching. let along swapping one of those ten thousand shimed SOB's back on and getting it aligned. then if you change it at least when its off you have one that can be easily repaired for a spare.
 
I should and will make another posting but, I few extra things I could use. Once I got my car in the garage to look at it closer and so the adjuster could look at it I noticed more stuff that got messed up. But im looking for a clean unbroken pot metal trim piece that runs across the front edge of the hood. and it looks like I also need the grill ectension piece that goes behind the headlight bezel and lights. I figured I would throw it out here before I start calling around the country trying to track it down.
 
better off just dropping it off to repair that hood moulding. they are hard to find in any shape most are broken. ask around, the low temp solder is the repair method I think. I know Paul had his repaired as he could not find one. you find a used one you will need to re plate it anyway. the other pieces you need I can get up in Rapid but it's one of those you never know the price till you see the mood the guy is in places.
 
Is that hood molding '69 only, or is the '70 hood molding the same? I know of some '69s and '70s laying around in yards.
 
I had mine repaired by QualKrom in Eire PA. Every car that I have seen has the front hood molding broken. I have figured out that the reason that they break, is that when you open the hood, and lift from the center, it puts a strain on the die cast molding to the point that it cracks. You will also find that they always crack in the same location. Now, I only open my hood by lifting on the outer edge of the hood.

The cost to repair and re-plate my hood molding was $350. Don't know if the price has gone up since, but chrome plating in general has gone through the roof.
 
yes 69 are all the way across the front of the hood. mine is good in the middle but it is cracked on the right side. when it cracked I lost a small hunk of it. im sure it could be fixed . but if I get a better piece I will be money ahead.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top