Removing the buttons on S&S landau bars

F

Frank Redmond

I'm in need of how to remove the chrome buttons that hide the bolts holding the landau bars on S&S Victoria's. I've got an '81 that I am having a new top installed, but want to take care of the rust crunhies and few holes that have formed after 25+ years. I was told they're left hand thread and have attempted to remove them using a rather large pair of channel locks, but that doesn't want to work as well as I would like, so asking y'all if there is a better or easir way of doing this.

I want to get this work finished as car show season starts up in a couple of months here in Texas.

Thanks for the assist!

Frank Redmond
Bowie, Texas
 
right handed on my 73 S&S. the did a number on them. it's a small stud soldered on the cap. it's then threaded into the nut that holds the bar on. they seize in the cap bolt. Palm pressure should turn them off
 
Twist them to the left to get them off. I've pulled them off my 94 S&S and a parts car 78 S&S. Just a warning, you might end up snapping them taking them off because the threaded part of the button is really tiny. I've had that happen with two. You can order parts direct through S&S a.k.a. Accubilt ( www.accubuilt.com )
 
You can order parts direct through S&S a.k.a. Accubilt
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Has anyone bought parts at Accubilt? It took me over 45 days to get a piece of glass. One minute it was available the next it was not . The first quote was $175.00 with shipping. After 30 days of back and forth I called around . Found a dealer out here that had it. He only wanted $475.00 for the glass, I asked him where was getting it from you guessed it Accubilt. Called them back talked to 3 different people finally got a answer yes we do have it at the original quote of $175.00
 
Thanks for the info on this. I'm GLAD I posted on here as I had been informed the buttons were left hand threads, so would have busted them had I gone the other way.

Weather is finally going to warm back up for a week here in Texas, so hoping to have the bars off the vinyl removed and then attack the rust. My plan is to sandblast it at 40 psi as to not warp the metal (done it many time on other cars), then POR-15 followed by patch panels and fiberglass over all the repair work.

I'm really hoping that I can get this all done before April in order to attend the NSRA (National Street Rod Association) Southwest Nationals in OKC. Theyre opening up the years from pre-48 to 1980. Yes, I know I have an '81 model, but they're not going to know the difference. I also have the new 472 Cadillac back from the machine shop and ready to replace the 368 Cadillac.

Thanks again for the information!

Hearsin' in Texas,

Frank Redmond
 
Past member

Hey Frank, didn't you used to be a PCS member? As you can see, this site is very valuable to gather information and hosts a lot of experts more than willing to help.
Click on the tab on the top right and you can join on-line. So easy!
Welcome to the site.
Richard :cheers:

PS: You can post pictures of your project here once you are a PCS member a a site supporter and I know everyeon wants to see your car.:agree:
 
Hey Richard,

Yes, previous PCS member and let things lapse due to unforseen situations including open heart surgery last year and then buying a house finally for the 1st time as well during my recovery from the surgery.

I also decided I would wait and see what happened with all the shake up as well and see that things have finally gotten situated and happy to see that as well.

For those on Facebook, I do have a profile there and LOTS of pictures of all my current "fleet".

http://www.facebook.com/HotRodHearseGuy?ref=profile#/HotRodHearseGuy?ref=profile

Frank Redmond
 
The shakeup is over and the PCS is back on track. New presidential elections coming this July but we are stronger than ever before. Hope you come back, we need the members. Congrats on the house and hope your health is doing well.

Richard

PS: Tried the link but it was not there.
 
making a repair on the pins is a fairly easy task. use a couple nuts brazed together and saw off a machine bolt of the right thread. then drill a regular bolt and threaded it to the the stud. if you don't want to use it in the ends then swap it for one of the center ones. I had to do 3 of mine that way. just be sure to use some anti seize when you put them back on.
 
I figure I will just continue with this post here as it will be easier than trying to start a new one and then try and stay up with where it all began.

Miss Joy is officially TOPLESS! I'm rather please with the progress I made in just a couple of short hours. It makes me really wish I'd been mroe up to tackling this all in August thru November. It does give me something to work on now at home while I wait to get into the Wise County Antique Auto Club's shop in April to begin reconstruction of Esmeralda, the 1953 Superior Cadillac Combination.

I am however in a quandry over a couple of items. The first being the coach lights. YES, they're going to be re-installed, but I would like to change the lighting under the covers from it's current "dome light" style bulb to something more modern light similar to what they used on the production Fleetwoods in the late 80's to early 90s.

The next is although she's no longer 100% stock or will be in service again and the 2nd FH wanted her black instead of the sterling silver she originally was ordered as. Whoever did the paint and body work, did a fantastic job and did it properly and this is my quandry. I am seriously thinking as long as she's going to get a repaint anyway, do I go back with the silver once more? I do have an '89 Fleetwood Brougham that is a triple silver car and might be all kinds of cool to have "matching" vehicles to some degree.

Thoughts, opinions, gripes all welcomed.

Frank
 
Richard Vyse said:
Sorry Frank, I tried the link but it says I have to be a member in order to see. You can email me a picture to hinsb@msn.com for I would love to just see your pro-car.
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Well, hmmmph! I guess I will do it this way...http://s150.photobucket.com/albums/s89/HotRodHearseGuy/1981%20S%20and%20S%20Cadillac%20Victoria/Resurrection/ I was trying to avoid posting in two different places, but guess that isn't the case and will remember to keep both places updated.

Frank
 
Richard Vyse said:
Now this I gotta see.....:agree: I can see the pictures via the other account now. Thanks. Certainly looks like you've got your hands full.
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She's not as bad as she could have been after almost 29 years with the same top on her. I have seen a lot worse once the vinyl has been removed. The rust is mainly on the passenger side and is right at the seam where the sections were joined together.
 
Frank
As far as paint is concerned. Go with what you like since these cars were always getting painted to match existing fleets or corporate colors. If the car was properly repainted black (door jambs and all) it could save expense by repainting black again.
As far as the coach lights go. Don't do it. I have been told they can be a b*&%h to fix. Stick to classic old school bulbs or up grade to an led.
My .02 worth. Good luck and keep us posted.
 
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