Yuasa battery maintainers.

Michael Mykulak

Michael Mykulak

A few years back now I got fed up with losing good batterys to storage over the winters. Out of frustration I bought a Yuasa maintatainer with connectors for two applications. One connector a standard style like clamps for jumper cables and the other connects permanently to the battery posts. The batterys were our motorcycle and our 1990 Buick 9 passenger limited wagon. I ended up using those batterys 1 year longer than there warranty ratings. I had one device and two connectors that were wired with quick couplers so I would rotate, charging. My question is. Is it any trade off for what you pay in electricity worth the trade off how much it costs to replace batterys? Any body out there use a Schumacker maintainer or can anyone weight in. I may have not phrased the question crorectly but I hope you catch my ponderance.
 
I know this doesn't exactly answer your question Michael, but I do nothing but start my cars about once a month or once every six weeks and let them run until operating temperature. In fact I did just that today. The battery in the Fleetwood 75 was in the car when I bought it over 7.5 years ago. It started with no problem.
 
I used to do that as well but was told that it was harmfull to the motor because it created condensation inside the motor going hot to cold into a soup of corrosive acids and agents than would wash down into the oil pan and create a caustic soup that would circulate through the motor everytime you started up and spread the soup into a sludge that would foul the interior of the entire motor. Most often observed under the valve covers when you R&R the valve cover gaskets. But still batterys cost an average of 50-60 and the electricity costs? Bottom line an additional year???? The moving parts internally act like a cake mixer and produce the batter.
 
As a result of a recent "inappropriate subject matter post" I recently had pulled, I was informed that we have an abundance of children and familys that visit the forum. So as an attempt to steer away from topic / content in reference to "pron stars" and "thongs" in past posts that I have read along with many other such references and enuendo, I am trying to attempt a lateral move into some intelligent and pertinent issues, and it seems like there is some degree of keyboard lock up occuring in the fellowship of the forum. I am here to learn as are other newbies. Anybody ready to teach out their? Discussion is the fabric of the forum, can we discuss some stuff that I would enjoy participating in and reaping the benefits of our combined knowledge? Thank You, All! No malice intended! Dawn just gave me permission to hit the Submit Reply.
 
I'm running at least four trickle chargers/battery maintainers out in my shop right now, with the occasional overnight running of the Schumacher charger on my truck that stays outside to get it going on a cold morning day, and it hasn't added any appreciable amount to my monthly electric bill. I've been doing it since thanksgiving that way.
 
I am rotating 4 trickle chargers on six batteries and do it for less than $3.00 a month (don't ask how I can be so accurate). I'm sold on them. It has to be less than battery replacement.
:smileflagcan:
 
so my question is if it's a good battery and you have a good system why is it going down just sitting there? of course there is a little draw with the clock if it works. I have never worried about trying to keep the battery up. on occasion I will have to charge one before it using it in cold weather. but that's because the battery is 6 years old on the limo. I have found that the cheap battery disconnects work will and keep you from having troubles. as long as it's not a new car with all the security systems running all the time I have never had to use a float charger.

as for firing them up and running them some. that's the way to go. if you start a car always let it run enough to warm up before shutting it off. you'll have less trouble with it if you do that. especially one in the shop. if I fire it up to move it it will go around the block and stay running till it's warm enough to drop off fast idle by it's self. you have a lot less trouble with them if you do that. the toxic soup comes for firing it and shutting it off right away
 
From what I have read if your battery is not in a charging lifestyle then it reverts to a discharging lifestyle and then, because in part of the inactivity, it causes the calcification process that builds on itself in a manner of a mass, like cancer that is not reversible or like rust behaves. And thats what shortens the life span of the battery. Just hit on a brilliant idea, I wonder if there is a chemical similar to rust neutralizer that would work in conjuction with battwery acid/electrolyte to inhibit the process?
 
Sorry about the speling error just wanted to nip that one quickly "Battwery" Twas not my intention to twype so fast to have not twatched what I was twinking.
 
Funny you mention this since I'm currently having issues with the batteries in both ambulances this year. I use a battery tender on my Harley and it works great but I think I may have lost three batteries to the cold this year. I'm down to one battery in each ambulance using one from my kid's truck. The Criterion batteries have been in for about 7 years but the Lifeliner batteries are only three years old.
 
been a lot of products out on the market to add to your battery one called X6 I think it was you poured in each cell to stop them from building the calcium on the plates. but then I have heard that story both ways. if you keep the trickle charger on them then the activity causes the build up. it mostly all BS. the smaller the battery the more the problem as the plates are smaller. maintaining it at a set temp will keep it longer. most of these new ones are made so cheap that they will lose a connection on a cell and it's not really calcified but it got a open circuit. the good old days you would just change out a cell. now you toss the battery. the more plates in one the longer it will last and the more it will cost. but you let one lose the charge and freeze it your toast. it brakes up inside and will never take or release a charge again. so anyone want to convert there hearse to electricity? remember it's free all you got to do is plug it in. :rofl:
 
I actually thought about it in the event a basket case came along in regards to a coach with no motor or multiple mechanical issues to numerous, with a very good body. 10,000.00 currently to retrofit.
 
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