should I use for removing the paint and surface rust around it?
and what grit paper?
and what grit paper?
What type of sander...
- Thread starter Josh Rutter
- Start date
it would all depend on your equipment and skill. I like to use the 8 in sander /polisher type with 24 or 36 grit dry. works good goes fast. the papers are about 2 bucks each now. you will need at lest one a panel. but for door jams around light opening and these places were there is a lot of pattern stamped in you can't beat one of the medium blasting methods. that saves you a ton of time striping the car cost you a ton of time cleaning the shop and car. I have discovered that the thing you will used the most is elbow grease. there is no magic way to get the old stuff off. it all is work.
Kevin Lynch
PCS Member
Electric and air sanders
With the random orbital or the air (DA) and you can't make things worse, I've used 80 grit. Getting ready for paint I've used 220 and 320. After primer I've used 600 wet. If you start with 220 or 320 you'll be on this project forever.
This is based on what I was taught and what I've done. Good luck...wear a serious mask!!!!
With the random orbital or the air (DA) and you can't make things worse, I've used 80 grit. Getting ready for paint I've used 220 and 320. After primer I've used 600 wet. If you start with 220 or 320 you'll be on this project forever.
This is based on what I was taught and what I've done. Good luck...wear a serious mask!!!!
I have never done body work before but cant afford to have a shop do anything so I would love to learn and this car needs a little attention. Want to start on it once weather warms up again, hoping the rust doesnt drastically advance during the winter. Its in a garage right now but my luck thats not enough.
Also, with the sander, what amp size should I get as far as power wise? Is 2 amps enough or is that too weak?
Kevin Lynch
PCS Member
Home Depot
I have to admit I've killed about 3 of these over the years. I get the Black and Decker sander at Home Depot or Lowes. There is another one that is shaped like a clothes iron. You'll spend more on sandpaper than the sanders.
PLEASE find out how close a Finish Master store is to you. They sell paint etc to body shops. If you walk in off the street you're going to pay retail. If you know someone who is their customer already perhaps they can order stuff wholesale. Next go on line and look for sandpaper. You really want a ROLL of the stuff- comes rolled up with little perforations between each piece; I think a hook/loop (velcro) pad is the best. Stuff that just sticks on I don't like. Once the pad gets dusty nothing sticks and the sandpaper flies off. It's very frustrating. So put on a velcro base and buy the hook and loop sandpaper.
I can't stress enough that the price on these products are horrendous. Note the cost per sheet is based on the quantity you buy. The sandpaper loses half of its effectiveness in about ten seconds. You can use the same sheet for a minute or so but the longer you go, the more time you're wasting. I'd bet a full vehicle could use 200 pieces of sanding paper.
I'm getting ready to sand my lifeliner after the body work is done. Wear a mask (when sanding). If you don't have a Finish Master store, look for another automotive paint/body shop supply place.
ALso keep in mind the sander size as there are different sizes of paper.
Keep in touch and good luck!!!!
I have to admit I've killed about 3 of these over the years. I get the Black and Decker sander at Home Depot or Lowes. There is another one that is shaped like a clothes iron. You'll spend more on sandpaper than the sanders.
PLEASE find out how close a Finish Master store is to you. They sell paint etc to body shops. If you walk in off the street you're going to pay retail. If you know someone who is their customer already perhaps they can order stuff wholesale. Next go on line and look for sandpaper. You really want a ROLL of the stuff- comes rolled up with little perforations between each piece; I think a hook/loop (velcro) pad is the best. Stuff that just sticks on I don't like. Once the pad gets dusty nothing sticks and the sandpaper flies off. It's very frustrating. So put on a velcro base and buy the hook and loop sandpaper.
I can't stress enough that the price on these products are horrendous. Note the cost per sheet is based on the quantity you buy. The sandpaper loses half of its effectiveness in about ten seconds. You can use the same sheet for a minute or so but the longer you go, the more time you're wasting. I'd bet a full vehicle could use 200 pieces of sanding paper.
I'm getting ready to sand my lifeliner after the body work is done. Wear a mask (when sanding). If you don't have a Finish Master store, look for another automotive paint/body shop supply place.
ALso keep in mind the sander size as there are different sizes of paper.
Keep in touch and good luck!!!!
Last edited:
harbor fright. your not going to be into production don't spend all the money on tools. you never done body work and all you want to do is strip the car down to bare and ??? do what? what is you plan for after you have sanded it. my advice to you if you lack the experience and don't want to mess up this car stay away from that kind of stuff. tinker around. get the bumpers off, pull the trim. even the door handles. you'll get all the body work you want doing that. then drop the car off at either a independent shop or the Maco boys. let then strip and paint then you can put it back together.
If you buy Harbor Freight, buy the tools right before you start the job. If, and when it craps out, you can return it within the short warranty period. Just treat the HF tools with care. The plastic is cheap, and usually breaks easily.
I have a number of them I use daily. the sander/ polisher I have used for about 6 pro cars now. so it's pay attention to what your getting. take care of it. don't abuse the tool and you will get good life out of it. now then if you run out right away and get the snap on stuff. tie a couple grand up in tools you will only use once that would have gone a long way to painting your car. the tools are just that tools, the man still does the work. there is not a sander out there that beats a piece of paper wrapped around a scrap of 2x4 in the hands of a man that knows what he is doing. to this day I still buy the cheap tool first. then if I find it works for what I need I may get a more expensive version later. often times after doing so I discover that the tool I prefer is the cheap one. the high dollar is just not handy. but however you ain't getting that that Hutchinson sander away from me now. man I wish I could have afforded one when I was doing production work
Josh,
I've worked for Finishmaster for 23 years and continue to work on cars occasionally. If I can be of assistance please PM me and I'll be happy to help.
Don
I've worked for Finishmaster for 23 years and continue to work on cars occasionally. If I can be of assistance please PM me and I'll be happy to help.
Don
Thanks for the plug Kevin!!!