Signal and brake light issues.

Jean-Marc Dugas

Jean-Marc Dugas

PCS Member
My 54Xl has decided to have signal and brake light issues the day before the Provincial Motor Vehicle Inspection.

The issue discovered tonight on the way to the garage is as follows:

Headlights off: signal light and brake lights work

Headlights on, both high and low beam, signal lights are not working. Not sure about brake lights. The clear lights that turn on along with the signal lights come on and the signal light in the dash come on dim but do not flash.

Any suggestions on where to start when the car comes back?
 
I'm no expert but I'd start with checking for good grounds on all of the components. My '73 Lifeliner used to do strange things as well. Turned out to be a bad ground on the highbeam circuit.
 
As to your video:

No, it appears that you might have an incorrect flasher in the socket. Flashers are rated for the number of bulbs that they will flash. Pull the flasher out of the fuse panel, it is located in one of the four corners, and looks like a small metal rectangular metal box about 1" x 3/4". Once you have it out, check the number of lamps that is marked on it. You will need to count how many bulbs in the front and rear stop / directionals you have. For the directional signals, you only count the bulbs on one side.

Systematic Check for Problems:

Lets start from the beginning, by check that all bulbs are illuminated with the parking lights in the on position (first detent of the headlamp switch). They should all be illuminated, and bright. Then have someone step on the brake pedal, and the stop lights should illuminate even brighter than the parking lights. Once you have confirmed that these two circuits are working properly, start the car, and activate the 4 way flashers. All 4 corners should flash together. The 4 way flashing system uses its own flasher, and it is usually located under the dash, near the steering column, in its own special holder. Turn off the 4 way flasher, and try the directional, one side at a time, and check to make sure that both front and rear are working. If they are not, and all the previous tests were OK, then the problem lies in the directional switch. That will require professional assistance, since the steering wheel needs to be removed to service it. If the car has a tilt / telescopic column, then special tools are needed to service the switch. It is a difficult job to do the first time, but gets easier with experience and the proper tools.

Service Procedure when you don't know where to start:

Start by shutting off all power to the vehicle, or disconnect the negative battery terminal. (Ambulances usually have a master disconnect switch for the 2 batteries.) Using a plumbers 1/2" socket wire brush, that is available at most hardware or big box stores (i.e. Home Depot plumbing department), remove each bulb, and insert the wire brush, and give it a couple of revolutions, until the inside of the socket is clean and bright. Blow out all debris, and then coat the metal end of the new bulb (part #1157) with a light coating of Vaseline, and insert it into the socket. You will notice that there is one high and one low pin on the sides of the bulbs. Make sure that these pins are properly aligned, and give the bulb a slight twist till it is fully seated into the socket. If the bulb is loose in the socket, you can give it a gentle squeeze with pliers, just enough so the bulb fits securely. Do this with every bulb socket. Wipe off any excess Vaseline that is on the glass part of the bulb. The Vaseline will help keep moisture out of the bulb sockets, and maintain a good ground. Report back after you have done this project along with the rating of the flasher and the number of directional bulbs on one side of the car.

These type of electrical gremlins usually happen when a car sits in the garage for weeks or months on end, without being used. Repairing the way that I have suggested will help to eliminate storage problems for the future.
 
"These type of electrical gremlins usually happen when a car sits in the garage for weeks or months on end, without being used."

Paul, I think it is as you say here. With covid and the previous winter, the car has sat for 2 years. I did not face these issues when used prior to that.
 
The method of finding the problem is a tried and true method that I have used for years, along with the Vaseline remedy. I learned about this from the owners manual that came with my 1926 Buick Master 54C when it was new. Pontiac revived the solution when the 1966 or 1967 Pontiac GTO came out, with lights in the rear bumper. At that time, they were suggesting using chassis grease. I prefer the Vaseline, because it doesn't make a mess in the sockets. Most people never learn how to properly diagnose electrical problems, and use the "replace parts" method, until they either fix it or give up, and take it to a professional. I prefer to teach how to find and fix the problem, rather than just say it is a ground issue. I have seen where car stop and directional lights having a bad ground, will ground through the radio, with the radio coming on and off, as the bulb flashes. That can drive a novice mechanic crazy, until they learn how to properly diagnose a electrical problem. The one thing you should never do with an electrical problem, is to cut the wire, and splice it in elsewhere, because you don't understand how to repair it properly.
Sometimes even an experienced person gets stumped, and that is when you ask others for help. Had it happen to me this past weekend. Called Dan Scully, and he made a few suggestions, but none helped. Talked to another old friend, and when I told him the symptom, he knew immediately, what was wrong. I had never run into this problem with over 65 years of wrenching, but he had. Seems like there is a first time for everything for everyone.
 
Thanks Paul.

The strange thing is that everything was working A1 up to a couple of days ago, then boom.

I'll give this a try tonignt.
 
Jean-Marc Dugas said:
Thanks Paul.

The strange thing is that everything was working A1 up to a couple of days ago, then boom.

I'll give this a try tonignt.
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Same in EMS... one minute the patient was laughing and dancing, and a few seconds later, he is on the floor dead. The only difference, is in EMS, you have to know how to diagnose quickly, and take the correct action to save the patient. It can't wait till "tonight".
 
Tim Prieur said:
"These type of electrical gremlins usually happen when a car sits in the garage for weeks or months on end, without being used."

Paul, I think it is as you say here. With covid and the previous winter, the car has sat for 2 years. I did not face these issues when used prior to that.
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From my experience when I had my 67 once you start fixing things you create a chain reaction of other items that will start to act up because you disturb the equilibrium that has been in place for the last 40 years.
 
If everything worked before it sat then it it most likely a rust problem. The rear video shows to me as a weak ground. The easy place to start is the rear frame. They could have broken a wire off in shipping. Easy to do.
 
Everything was working on Tuesday. Went kaboom Wednesday.

Being new to selling an old car, I was sick with all the issues faced by Jean-Marc. I saw none of them, and had it out for a good drive before it left. Very grateful he told me this.
 
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Tim Prieur said:
Everything was working on Tuesday. Went kaboom Wednesday.

Being new to selling an old car, I was sick with all the issues faced by Jean-Marc. I saw none of them, and had it out for a good drive before it left. Very grateful he told me this.
Click to expand...
I think that it is because the car has not seen much action in the last 18 months with COVID and the Alberta winters. Then as you fix one thing something else pops up because you disturb the equilibrium that has been settling in for the last 45 years.

To me, this is expected and it is a great opportunity to learn about the car and its systems. Once we are through this rebellious stage we will be back on the road turning heads!
 
Shipping does things to. Simple way to check for bad ground it to go to the weak side. Find the black wire and using a jumper wire ground it to the gas tank. You bright on one side with weak lights on the other does the same with turn signal,brakes or 4 way flashers. That 3 separate was to power the lights. All with the same results. Remember brake and singnals us the same wire. Park the Other one if your haveing the same problem with both circuits the trouble is in the rear. As i recall everything back there is plastic so it might be a bad socket.
 
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