Rear brake drum removal

J

JR Rotramel

(1962 Cadillac Superior Combination)
OK so I have used two cans of PB Blaster, pulling by hand, slide hammer, heating center with a torch, screw-type hub puller (broke it), porta-power cable puller. I even tried to rattle it with a flat air chisel while puller was on it.
The rear brake drum WILL NOT come off. :bonk:
I am afraid to put too much heat or pull from anywhere outside of the wheel studs. Anyone have suggestions?
 
Willing to bet the puller being used was not large enough.

3 years ago, had to figure a way on my '57 Superior to remove the hub after someone else had CUT stuck wheels nuts off - studs included!

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Took a big f*ck off puller and some massaging with a different liquid wrench to finagle the hub off. Said puller came from a Mexican mechanic named Adolfo, who had borrowed it from a semi repair shop.

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Success! Brake pads weren't even close to binding. It was stuck hardcore so I thought that they may have been. Off to the press...

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Little clean up, reassembly and it finally came off jack stands. (*Note: Red stands under axle in first picture were load bearing - blue stands were non-load bearing auxiliary. And no, I wasn't responsible for the creative constructor set.)

Later found out that the puller could be ordered through NAPA and was K-D Tools 2251. If it is no longer available, one of their newer ratcheting pullers should work:

http://www.kd-tools.com/products3.html
 
The drum is held on by the nut that is torqued to about 400 psi, so it isn't going to come off easily. If you broke a puller, then the puller wasn't up to the job size wise. One thing that I would do if you find the drum is being hung up by the brake shoes, is to cut off the heads of the "nails" that are located at 3 & 9 o'clock, by hitting them with a cold chisel where they come through the rear of the backing plate. This will allow the shoes to fall off if there is a ridge in the brake drum. Also, make sure that the axle nut is installed at the end of the axle threads, so if the drum comes off all at once, it doesn't hit you. You also need to be careful not to damage the axle itself. That is why the puller has a point on the threaded part. If you can't find one, I can mail you mine to use. Paul
 

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I would also like to add that not only the trmendus amount of torque, the shaft is tapered so it us under alot of force, its designed to stay on. If you use the right tools and do it correctly it comes off fairly easily. You shouldnt have to pound on the back of the drum, the puller will do all the work.
 
This is the type I am sending him. It isn't as fancy as "yours", however, it will do the job. The only difference between the one I am sending, and the picture, is that he is getting the one that has some surface rust on it. It will be going in tomorrows mail...

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it is a pressed tapered fit you do need the right tool. the risk using the spreader type puller is breaking the drum. but in Attila's case it was the only thing you could use with the studs cut off. I have taken them off with a chain and the potor power but you tear up a lot of stuff doing it.
 
Russ Austin said:
Be carefull about heating the axle plate. I ruined the axle seals doing that on my 63 M&M.
Click to expand...

Yea, gave up on that idea pretty quick. Didn't seem to be making a difference and I suspected there was a seal nearby

John ED Renstrom said:
it is a pressed tapered fit you do need the right tool. the risk using the spreader type puller is breaking the drum. but in Attila's case it was the only thing you could use with the studs cut off. I have taken them off with a chain and the potor power but you tear up a lot of stuff doing it.
Click to expand...

Broke the cable on the porta-power since my first post.
 
not the cable puller, the 10 ton body jack put the nut on the Axel looped the chain over the studs and set the jack on the Axel pushing on the chains. ruined every stud but I got it off. the nut flush keep the Axel safe and one you brake the seal the hub is loose. all you got to move it is 1/16 of a inch to take if of by hand. but man they suck down tight on that tapered shaft.
 
:soapbox: Please never compromise your safety. Cinderblocks are not safe to use even as a secondary sure way to fail. I have recovered many injured people and unfortunatly a few bodies from under vehicles up on non-wood blocks. Take the time to do it right, or you might not get the second chance to enjoy your labors. :soapbox:
 
Update:
FINALLY got the left drum off using the loaned puller. Of course, the right side came off with little effort.
I was able to find brake shoes and 1-1/8" wheel cylinder rebuild kits. After removing right cylinder, I found it to be VERY rusted inside and out. I have had it soaking for about three days. The rebuild kits were a little difficult to find, complete rear wheel cylinders are proving to be almost impossible for a Commercial Chassis.


Oddly, this whole project began because the pedal got hard at the bottom of the stroke and I thought just the vacuum booster was bad.
 
JR Rotramel said:
Update:
FINALLY got the left drum off using the loaned puller. Of course, the right side came off with little effort.
I was able to find brake shoes and 1-1/8" wheel cylinder rebuild kits. After removing right cylinder, I found it to be VERY rusted inside and out. I have had it soaking for about three days. The rebuild kits were a little difficult to find, complete rear wheel cylinders are proving to be almost impossible for a Commercial Chassis.


Oddly, this whole project began because the pedal got hard at the bottom of the stroke and I thought just the vacuum booster was bad.
Click to expand...

If you have a Arnolds motor supply try them for C.C. wheel cylinders. they found them and brake shoes for my 49 S&S with no problem. I remember them telling me they came out of California. Installed them in 2003 and never had a problem yet.
 
If you can't find the wheel cylinders, then send them to Sierra Specialty. http://www.brakecylinder.com The will re-sleeve the cylinders with a brass insert, and you will never have another problem with them. If you break off a stud, line nut, etc., leave it for them to remove. They do great work, and the turn around time is fast. I cannot recommend any brake cylinders that are coming from China, because of a bad experience when I used them in my 1963 Chrysler. They failed before the car was on the road. I did find NOS ones for my car at that time, and used them. If not, then I would have had the originals sleeved by Sierra Specialty.
 
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