Propello Ray Service and Repair

[Paul Steinberg]

If your Propello Ray light is not spinning, has a dead spot when turning, or has any other type of problem, then it is time to see what the problem is and correct it. They are not a complicated mechanism, and with some basic tools, they can be disassembled, cleaned, repaired, and made to work like new again. Dirt is the biggest problem with an ailing Propello Ray light. Below are the steps to disassembly the unit. Some pictures will show the unit in a disassembled state for clarity of the operation.

Start off by removing the outer housing ring by removing the 4 screws and nuts. Only one side is shown in the picture.


Then remove the outer screws that hold the bulb into the rotating frame. Only one screw is shown in picture, but I believe that there are a total of 8 screws.

Once you have the bulb retainer removed, you will need to remove the bulb to housing grounding wire screw. Reinsert the screw so you don't loose it.


The next thing to remove will be the motor power wire from the center terminal.


The next item to remove is the motor that drives the gear that spins the bulb/housing. In this picture you can see the exposed armature shaft and the fiber gear. Before you remove the motor retaining nuts, note how the armature shaft and gear are not pressing against each other. It is important to get this setting correct when you reassemble the motor to the light fixture. If it is too tight, then the gear will wear out, and the motor will be under a lot of strain, and will burn out. This picture was taken after the unit had been cleaned and reassembled. (original picture wasn't clear)

 

[Paul Steinberg]

Next will be the removal of the drive mechanism bearing. This is the part that is usually defective. You will start off by removing the snap ring. A snap ring plier is almost always necessary to get it off, and definitely required to get it back on.


Once you have the snap ring off, then remove the 4 screws that retain the bearing, and lift off the retainer, and the spacer below it. Once you have all these parts removed, you should be able to pull the yoke out of the bearing. If it doesn't come out easily, then gently tap each side of the yoke until it comes out. Once it is out, then clean the shaft with a non chlorinated brake cleaner. On the back side of the yoke is the fiber gear. It is held on by 3 flat head screws. I would remove these screws, and then clean the gear with dish washing liquid, and warm water and an old tooth brush to remove all traces of old grease and grime. It is important that the gear be clean and well lubricated for long life.


Now that you have everything disassembled, you can carefully turn over the housing and gently tap out the old bearing. If it is stuck, then use a small punch and tap around the circumference until it is dislodged. I would suggest that you replace it with a new one, since they are inexpensive, and almost always worn out internally. The bearing has a double row of ball bearings that allow the shaft to self center itself. They are available at your local bearing supply company. You will find the part number stamped on the bearing. (5200Z) Clean the bearing hole in the yoke, and then insert the new bearing. If it doesn't go in easilly, then gently tap the outer edge of the bearing with a blunt punch and hammer, until it is seated. Remember that you are working with aluminum parts, so don't force it. Once you have the new bearing in place, you are ready to start reassembling the parts in the opposite way they were removed.

Please note that the contact on one terminal of the bulb is made of spring copper. I would use some very fine sandpaper to clean this surface for a better contact.


Also, note that there is a locater tab on the bulb back side outer edge that must be aligned with the locater tab cut out on the yoke. When this is properly aligned, the ground wire, and spring copper contact tab will be properly located without shorting out.

 

[Paul Steinberg]

While the motor is out, clean all grime off of it by rubbing it with a dry rag until clean. You don't want to get any solvents into the motor, since they will damage it beyond repair, and replacement motors are not available. On the front of the motor, there is an opening with a felt wick exposed. I would put a few drops of 3 in 1 oil on the wick to lubricate the front bronze bushing of the motor.


On the rear of the motor, there is a tiny hole that also has a wick behind it. Carefully put a few drops of oil into this hole to lubricate the rear bronze bushing.

 

[Paul Steinberg]

This is a picture of a gear that has severe wear as a result of a worn, dirty bearing. You will also note the bearing in the picture how the center race allows the shaft to self-center, by allowing an elliptical rotation pattern.


This is a replacement yellow brass gear that I had manufactured a few years ago. I still have a few left. No matter which gear you use, it is important that both the gear and the armature shaft are lubricated. I use white lithium grease.

 

[Paul Steinberg]

Reassembled unit....
front view


rear view....