Pontiac Water Pump

Well I was on the way home and stopped to get some info / opinions from the local engine repair shop when we noticed the water pump on the Pontiac had started spewing antifreeze. I limped it home and was able to get all of the parts (I think) locally to make the repairs, including the fan clutch, this week. (I had already replaced the radiator a few weeks back...probably should have done the pump then.)

I read the old strings. Any other advice about this task as I have not done one in years?

Also, does anyone have the heater plumbing diagram to include the rear patient compartment flow? My original heater core has been disconnected (looks really jacked up) and I bought a new one and figure while I am into the cooling / heating circuit I might as well do the job all the way through.
 
You have touched on one of my favorite subjects... Pontiac engines. If you are going to get into the engine to replace the water pump, you might as well go all the way and remove the timing case cover, and check the timing gears and chain. My experiences with Pontiac engines is extensive, and I can't tell you how many horror stories that I know of with that engine and timing chains going bad. It is one of those items that is out of mind, and out of sight, so it is usually neglected. I just had a similar discussion with another Pontiac owner this week about the same subject. If when you get the timing cover off, you find that the engine is full of sludge, let me know, and I will tell you the magic cure to remove the sludge from the oil pan area. When they sludge up, this also starts to clog the oil pump screen. Usually you have to remove the oil pan to fix this problem, but thanks to an old timer, I have learned the tricks of fixing Pontiac engines. Also, if the water pump has a baffle on the back side that needs to be transfered to the new pump. Many people that are not familiar with this will forget it, and turn it in with the old core. Personally, I like keeping the original engine parts and having them rebuilt as spares. While you have everything apart, now is also a good time to do some engine painting in that area. Lot easier to take it apart once than multiple times. Install new fan belts if you already haven't done this.
 
the rear heaters were just spliced into the standard flow lines. most of the add on cores for the rear heater had tubes the same size if not the smaller one is the pressure side the larger on the return. the return is always the one going back to the water pump. if your lucky enough to have a cable control for the water flow it will be on the pressure side. if not buy a ball valve in so you can shut the water flow off if you need to. smart man would put one in both hoses so that you can shut it off completely if you need to. be sure to follow Paul's advice and check the timing gears and chain. they have a tendency to go out with out any notice at around 75,000 if I remember right. if it's good a gadget is really cheep insurance
 
Carquest has a very good assortment of cable operated heater valves available in the catalog in the store. Find one that looks period correct and use it. My 1969 Miller Meteor has a cable operated water valve for the rear heater, and it is still working. From the looks of it, it was installed when the car was new. Just need to lube the cable to get it to work with less effort.
 
Thanks

Great advice and I sure appreciate it.

I got to thinking that since the entire circuit will be stronger I may just bypass the rear heater core until I can pull it from the patient area for inspection, since I bet it will blow next. Looks like I have a manual valve for that. I was talking to the shop team here, and they tell me are now using an electric valve for the rear patient compartment...high tech.

Thanks again...wish you guys were closer to south Louisiana! It's a beautiful day here for garage work.
 
shirt sleave up here to. nice day in the 60's had the doors open all day. they tell me tomorrow may be different but I learned to do one day at a time. it would be best to plug off the rear heater till you can test it.
 
Back
Top