Painting my coach MONDAY! Need help...

[Larry N Reeves II]

I am in the process of getting my 1961 Cadillac Miller Meteor Hearse prepared for a complete paint job. I am removing ALL of the trim, stripping ALL of the laquer-checked surfaces to the metal, repairing ALL of the rusted sections and preparing the door jambs as well. I cannot afford to let the paint shop do these things, nor do I trust them to mask around the trim. Besides, if you just mask around the trim, where will the paint fail first?

I am trying to have it at the paint shop by 8am Monday morning.

WHO out there has done a COMPLETE paint job on one of these 61-62 Cadillacs? Commercial Chassis / Limo / Passenger?

WHO, if anyone, has used the "whitewall paint" available on Ebay or elsewhere? What was your experience with it? I WANT wide whites (3" or so) but the tires will rot out from under the car before I put 5,000 miles on them, so I am not going to invest in the "real thing".

WHERE can I find the side trim clips in the pic below? Most every parts house I have spoken to has a similar clip for Mopars, but the spring retainer exceeds the 3/8" plate width, so it won't work. Same thing with the Ebay sellers. Am I missing something? WILL it work? Is there something else I could use instead?

WHERE Can I get new gaskets and weatherstripping for this coach? Will I need to cobble together something from a fleetwood kit?

HOW do you remove the fin-mounted tail light pods? I have not been able to find access to the rear of it, so I cannot ascertain how it is connected.

HOW do you remove the outer window sill chrome? It looks like it is held with screws, but can it be removed with the glass in the door? Yes, all of my side windows roll all the way down.

WHY in the bloody blue blazes did Cadillac decide to change the fender-top spears from 61 to 62 just enough that the holes no longer line up? Nobody warned me about this The differences between 61 and 62 have added 2 days to a simple fender swap! :14_6_12:

Have I forgotten something? I am sure I have. If you have any tidbits I haven't touched on, please feel free to share. I am racing the clock on this one, but will take the time to read every bit of advice I can get...

 

[Paul Steinberg]

That is a standard molding clip that is available at NAPA. The wire is to provide tension to hold the clip into the molding.. I suggest that you put the painter on hold for a couple of weeks, since you have more work ahead of you than you can do in just a few days. Without examining the car, I can't tell you how some of the parts are held on, but most likely the rear spears are held on with bolts from underneath, which willl require some disassembly of the interior to get to.. Usually they are accessed from the trunk, but in these cars, the trunk no longer exists. I have never found a car that you can remove the window "fuzzies" without first removing the glass. Some of the early 1960's cars the fuzzies are held on with a clip that is attached to the fuzzy first and then it is pushed down in a small rectangular hole. You need a removal tool to get these out without damage, and I have no idea where to find the tool. It was part of the GM tool kit for the model year. I use a very thin screwdriver blade and gently pry it out. This has to be done from the inside of the door from below the molding. As for the fender, make a paper pattern for the hole drilling, and weld up the unneeded holes and drill new ones.. Paul

 

[John ED Renstrom]

you'll need to take the top off the fender wells in back to get to the lights.
if all you can find are clips to big then trim the ears down on the bench grinder. the wire length is unnecessary. save all the old ones you can as some of the stuff is just not around. Caddy changes things so you would buy more parts. they still do that today. be glad it's a simple fix. I have found weather striping from Restoration specialties, they have clips there to but at 2 bucks each they a little high. Aveco has them but your guessing on the size. good luck I can remember trying to do those kind of things. looke to me like the molding needs to go forward a bit. to fall in place. leaving the gap at the door

 

[Daniel Scully]

HOW do you remove the fin-mounted tail light pods? I have not been able to find access to the rear of it, so I cannot ascertain how it is connected.

There is a long stud on the inside.

 

[Larry N Reeves II]

Thank you gentlemen for the thoughts and replies! I have had the tops and sides off of the bolsters, and M+M decided to weld in solid plates without any access... I will either forego removing the pods or cut holes in the bolsters... Guess which way I am leaning...

On the clips, I will inquire at Napa, but if they only have something similar, then I will be firing up the grinder

The outer sill plates may also have to stay where they are. I'm not happy about it, but some compromise to preserve my sanity is in order.

:smileTEXAS:

 

[Rick Cox]

Larry--thanks for the photos...especially the front fender turn signal one--I was wondering how that particular item was mounted and wasnt about to tackle mine on the '64 (one side is very loose and only operates half the time when the ground is made) until someone who knew how posted a comment.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

check from underneath on the stud for the tail light. remember they had to put it on after the body was built. so your asking how MM did it not anyone else. if there are no access holes then they had to come up from the bottom to get it.

 

[Don Lagerstrom]

As a professional restorer, take your time before running off to the paint shop!
Make sure you prepare the car correctly under the paint BEFORE it's painted. Don't get sucked into the Maaco's of the world class paint job for $259. The more prep you do, the better the results. If you need help, let me know, don't RUSH IT!!

 

[Attila Bethlenfalvy]

Larry has been planning for quite awhile and would like to have a fresh coat of paint before an event going on next weekend.

Can hardly wait to see your coach buddy!