new brake drums and other stuff arrived

Looks like Christmas at your house. Nothing like a new set of wide whites, even if they are still in the wrappers. I am sure with the rims blasted and painted and those new tires on there, they will look great.
 
Do you realize that that the wheel studs have to be removed from the old hub and drum assembly with a carbide cutter, and the hub installed to the new drum with new studs, and have the whole assembly swagged together? Then the drums needs to be turned in a drum lathe to true them to the hub before being installed on the car. I mention this because some might not realize that you just can't slide the old drums off, and slide the new drums on, and have a safe braking system.
 
Question

What year, make, model car are these going on? Years ago, during the restoration of my '54 Eureka hearse, I purchased a set of 235-75-14 Coker radials with wide whites to put on this car. I was told by the salesman that they should give me no problem on the heavier car. One by one, always at inconvenient times on the highway, the belts started separating. Coker replaced the entire first set, and at this writing 3 of the 4 tires that were replaced have had belt separation also.

Of course all my cars except for my '76 were originally fitted with 890-14 bias ply tires, but I opted for radials for "safety" and "handling". My good friend Paul Cichon has a set of extra ply 890 tires on his '49 Superior hearse (as seen in Albany). They apparently have some extra plys capable of working well on a heavy car. The overall height of the tire is noticeably different too. Last summer I purchased a set of these 890's for the '54. I wish I had my camera handy when the 890 and 235 tires stood next to each other. There was a 3" height difference from the ground up, 1.5" on the radius, or raising the car-height. I do remember that one of the 890's took about 4 oz. of weights to balance it out. I meant to phone Coker to see if that was normal for that tire, but haven't done that yet.

I only took the '54 on one longer trip with these tires so far, that being to the Gilmore Museum in Hickory Corners, Michigan, when the CLC had a Meet there late last summer. The tires have so far given me no problem, but I thought I'd share this experience, in case it helps someone. One nice thing about the 890's is strictly visual, that the car sits at the correct height it originally did when new. The 235's always make the cars appear more squat. I'm happy I made this change, and may purchase another set for my '60. I'll definitely at least purchase another tire to be a spare, as my luck with tires on the highway with hearses has not been good. The photo below shows the car still fitted with the 235's. Tom
 

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the 235 are a 29 in in dimaniter the 890s are 31. there is a big diference in them. but the only way to go is to get the 700 x15 and have the white wall cut into them. that really adds to the expensic. it's nice to know they are now offer a extra load 890. now if they only had it in the the dule pin strip we would have tires for the 72. here is the 3 sets of tires mounted and at proper air side by side
 

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Do you realize that that the wheel studs have to be removed from the old hub and drum assembly with a carbide cutter, and the hub installed to the new drum with new studs, and have the whole assembly swagged together? Then the drums needs to be turned in a drum lathe to true them to the hub before being installed on the car. I mention this because some might not realize that you just can't slide the old drums off, and slide the new drums on, and have a safe braking system.

Why is this the case Paul? I mean, I'm having a hard time as it is removing the drums from my axle and now I learn about this. Man, this whole assembly is a real PITA to deal with...
 
the 235 are a 29 in in dimaniter the 890s are 31. there is a big diference in them. but the only way to go is to get the 700 x15 and have the white wall cut into them. that really adds to the expensic. it's nice to know they are now offer a extra load 890. now if they only had it in the the dule pin strip we would have tires for the 72. here is the 3 sets of tires mounted and at proper air side by side

OK....clarify please. My 64 had 890-15 bias, the new radial is 235/75R15, and you suggest 700/15 with white wall cut in. So here are questions;
#1. Can I buy an 890/15 bias with a 1.5" whitewall stock?
#2 What is difference between 700/15 and 890/15?
#3 Where would I purchase a 700/15?
#4 Why wouldn't I replace with 890/15?
#5 Is the Diamond Back Fury 235/75R15, 2183 load@41 a good/reasonable choice?

I really like the idea of a bias because of heighth/looks. I'm not going on many long cruises, so would bias be sufficient?
 
Why is this the case Paul? I mean, I'm having a hard time as it is removing the drums from my axle and now I learn about this. Man, this whole assembly is a real PITA to deal with...

The rear drums are held on by a very large nut that is at the end of the axle, and this nut needs to be backed off. Then you need a drum puller that bolts to the drum, and the center screw of the puller pushes against the axle itself. You use a very large hammer to turn the arm that is attached to the threaded screw of the puller. As the screw tightens against the axle, it pulls the drum off the tapered axle shaft. The reason for loosening the nut, but not totally removing it is that when the drum finally comes loose, it has a tendency to stay in motion, hitting anyone that is in its path. With the nut on, this can't happen. Once you have the old drum off, then the studs have to be cut off the old drum, and then driven out of the hub, and new studs installed. Also check to make sure that the brake shoes are totally retracted before trying to remove the drum. Consult your factory service manual for the the exact procedure. Just keep in mind that if you mess up the axle, you will have a difficult time finding a replacement, and it requires a lot of work to install the replacement axle. I had to replace the entire rear on my 1963 Chrysler when the axle shafts were destroyed by one of the previous owners. Even with the right tools this is a daunting task to get the drums off.
The good news is that the front drums are easier to remove, but still require a lot of work to take the old ones off the hub, and install the new ones.
 
The rear drums are held on by a very large nut that is at the end of the axle, and this nut needs to be backed off

A few pics of the drum set up and puller needed.:17875:
 

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Boy, you are not kidding about the rear drums as a PITA. Doing 2 brake jobs on 2 different 63 Cads, I ended up buying the puller.
 
Better upgrade the hammer pictured to one about 3 o 4 times its weight!!! The hammer pictured isn't big enough to do much with it, except have it bounce off the striking arm and hit you in the head... :angel:
 
Better upgrade the hammer pictured to one about 3 o 4 times its weight!!! The hammer pictured isn't big enough to do much with it, except have it bounce off the striking arm and hit you in the head...

That is the correct hammer tool # J-999997 xmass
 
Sorry to resurrect an old thread, but my brakes have just come back from overhaul but the one thing the brake shop couldn't do was replace the studs.

I managed to remove the old studs by myself as a number of them were stripped and damaged already, but the big question is where can I buy new ones?

I visited a couple of brake shops and Chevy/Cadillac parts places here in Sydney but no luck finding replacement studs. My car is a 1960 Caddy MM. Any help would be appreciated.

By the way, the brake puller is indeed essential. I bought a puller from T&E Tools and it did the job quite well.
 
one can try USA parts they have a web site and you can give them the specks. they use that long stud with the spacers so a standard caddy will not be long enough.
 
Yeah that was the first place I tried, no luck. And Caddy Daddy, and another place as well. No one has parts for Commercial Chassis brakes.

A bloke over at Phantom Coaches Forum said he was looking into getting a run made up, so he might be the best bet at the moment. I'll also try some light-truck places to see if they have something suitable.

This is what it looks like:

DSCF3938.jpg
 
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