Need #'s off of 1970 130amp alternator

James Fischer

James Fischer

PCS Member
Looking for someone that has access to a 1970 130amp alternator and who the manufacturer was....

The shop( LA Area) that may have one or could do a rebuild would need to know a number or numbers to help indentify the correct unit.....he said possibly it may be a 27SI 100 by Leece-Neville......??

Any help appreciated......

Jim
 
I'd say probably the quickest way for an answer there would to be contact Dan Herrick to see of he can get you the #'s off of his 1970 Superior.
 
It is a Delco Remy 130 amp 14 volt unit. The 1976 - 1977 is a 145 amp unit and the part number is 117152. Other than the output and the part number, I believe that they are identical.
 
At this hour the only thing I can tell you is that the tag on it says, "Delco Remy" "120 amp" I will see if I can get more information for you tomorrow when I can get it into better light.
 
Dan Herrick said:
At this hour the only thing I can tell you is that the tag on it says, "Delco Remy" "120 amp" I will see if I can get more information for you tomorrow when I can get it into better light.
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Dan THANK YOU so much !!!:thankyou2:
I appreciate your help.....

According to my 70 manual

the commercial chassis would come with a 130amp......ok.....good

But you have the actual car.....so would a 120 be ok ?? does the 10amp really make a big differance ??

Thanks again,have a good night !!
JIm
 
I think your getting your self hung up on this thing. its not all that important. the military used a lot of different stuff that you don't. the gm CC used the big delco. no alternator will come with brackets. if you need them your in a bind. but if all you need is the alternator any one of the ones people have offered you will work. they are all delco's off a CC chassis car. what changes made in brackets were not changes in the alternator. just the way it is attached to the engine. they swap from one set of brackets to the other. a lower amp one would fit right in. a higher amp one may need the regulator changed. but I don't think ten amps would be enough to worry about. how the belt is tightened on different cars has nothing to do with the alternator. simply how the mount bolts to the engine. the alternator will swap into all the different brackets. pick one that has been offered bolt it on and if it works good. if not sent it in to have it rebuilt. if the rebuilt shop says it tests OK then you know you have other problems.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
I think your getting your self hung up on this thing. its not all that important. the military used a lot of different stuff that you don't. the gm CC used the big delco. no alternator will come with brackets. if you need them your in a bind. but if all you need is the alternator any one of the ones people have offered you will work. they are all delco's off a CC chassis car. what changes made in brackets were not changes in the alternator. just the way it is attached to the engine. they swap from one set of brackets to the other. a lower amp one would fit right in. a higher amp one may need the regulator changed. but I don't think ten amps would be enough to worry about. how the belt is tightened on different cars has nothing to do with the alternator. simply how the mount bolts to the engine. the alternator will swap into all the different brackets. pick one that has been offered bolt it on and if it works good. if not sent it in to have it rebuilt. if the rebuilt shop says it tests OK then you know you have other problems.
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Ok Ed......That was my question...does the 10amp really make a difference....I guess not.....I was trying to take care of this on a local level and the shop has tons of them,most are in differant states of repair,some work some dont...they rebuild ALL of the ones they sell,since they do not want to put a warranty on a used one......but they wanted to get the correct one for the car so everyone was satisfied......he said he does not have anything that would tell him what was correct for a CC Cadillac....so i was just "doing my homework"......
Thanks for your help !!
Jim
 
The only time that the 10 amps is going to make a difference is when you are doing a parade with the siren going. For this reason, I suggest the higher amperage one that you can find. They all use the same solid state regulator. I can get a picture of the one from my 1978 tomorrow, and a picture of my back up unit in the garage. Bill will take good care of you, and give you the correct parts. Just remind him that you don't want it painted, and to leave it looking like it came from the factory. They spray paint everything that they send out unless you tell them not to.
Paul
 
Doug Lemon said:
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Alternat...=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item415ffcbae7
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Won't work because the mountings are wrong. There are a lot of considerations one must make when swapping alternators, and the most important is if the drive belt is going to line up. If it doesn't, then the belts will wear. On my Chevrolet, the previous owner installed a custom made bracket and a high output alternator. Problem is that the belt didn't track correctly, and was wearing out prematurely. If James wanted just any alternator, I would have given the one that I removed to him.
 
Now for the rest of the story, looked at the tag this am and the best I can tell (it is not easily read) it says that its a series 40DM model L11Z140. Now having said that I will remind you all that you should remember also that these cars were custom ordered and it is possible that when ordered the order had specified something different than the one I have! Yes some even ordered them with a different alternator/generator.
 
Dan Herrick said:
Now for the rest of the story, looked at the tag this am and the best I can tell (it is not easily read) it says that its a series 40DM model L11Z140. Now having said that I will remind you all that you should remember also that these cars were custom ordered and it is possible that when ordered the order had specified something different than the one I have! Yes some even ordered them with a different alternator/generator.
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I just looked at mine as well the all had the same numbers as Dan's
2 1969 cars and 2 1970 cars.
 
if the car was in service swapping to a different alternator that has parts readily available and easier to come by would be what most departments would do. after all they are only interested in a working rig not a historically correct one. my 72 military C/B had a Motorola alternator and regulator on it per the DOD contract. the mount CB built for it looked like something out of a locale blacksmith shop.

but the key to getting one back to gather is to ask the question you have along with pictures of what you need or of what you have left. gatherer the information othere people have and pick the response that to you seams to fit your predicament best. if you don't know, your stuck with trusting othere people or the repair shop you have selected. people range for cobblers to perfectionists. repair shops range from anything for a buck to do it right the first time.
as a restorer you need to adjust your thinking to nothing we do we can't redo as long as we don't cut anything or throw away anything we take off the car. don't let the fear of making a mistake stop you from making a repair. each car is different but they all share some of the same components. some times you have to do the test fit to determine what your car used. especially when someone else has removed parts from it.

but with your asking question we now know that a number of years have the same information on there tag. that this style comes in from 120 to 145 amp and that the solid state regulator is the same on all of them. but the engine mounts change from year to year. that really makes finding one a lot simpler. I might add that the reason for using this style was they will do max amperage at a low RPM . so your idling ambulance would not drain the batteries with the lights on and the door open
 
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