Moisture question..

Kent Dorsey

PCS Member / Funeral Director
Okay got a question for someone that knows more than me about this subject, and that wouldn't take a lot of knowledge...
My six car garage under the funeral home is full... so that leaves two hearses that need storage. I have the '76 under an aluminum car shed that is open at both ends with a California Car Cover Noah cover on it...
At the house we bought last year, was a tin building with two bays... it has a concrete pad and no power. It is NOT something I want to put money into as it will be torn down in the next five years....howevah, meanwhile back at the ranch it has been a nice place to keep my '79 Sedan DeVille...
So I managed to get the '90 Chevrolet Superior in there and cover it in sheets to keep the dust off - so it stays out of sun and rain - BUT today, I went in the building and the floor was very damp - and the car had moisture all over the sides, kinda a "weeping" type moisture on it...
I opened the lone window in the garage to let a little warm air get in there, but it made me wonder if the Chevrolet (or whatever is in there) would be better off in the aluminum car cover with a Noah cover over it?
I have a dehumidifer in the six car garage, but I don't have power in this old garage...
What say ye?
 
the tin building will sweat. the tin carport will to but being open the usually don't drip.if it was me and it's inside the garage I'd leave it there. just go down and get a couple cheap vents and put one each side at the peak. a louvered one with a bug screen won't run over a few bucks at the hardware store and that will let some air flow. you don't need to cut the hole all the way out. just trace around it a drill a bazillion holes with a drill. but take the plastic off the car as that will trap moister under it and it should be all right in there. with out any ventilation you got a rain forest going on in there. it would depend on the time of the day and tem outside as to weather is was raining in there or water was evaporating up.
 
vents

You could also get an unpowered vent that installs on the peak of the roof. Or at least as high up as you can get it. They are made up of many louvers that will let the moist warm air out of the building. I have one on my small barn and it seems to do a good job. Even on days when I don't think it is too hot up in the loft I will hear this thing spinning drawing warm air out. The vent on the ends of the building are a great idea too. They come in many sizes and shapes so it should not be too hard to find something that will fit the area you want to place them in. Any time you can get an air flow, whether powered or by mother nature you are doing good.
Mike
 
Unless, of course, you have a Vega or a Volare in there, and then no amount of air would forestall the oxidation process. But at least the residue would be easy to sweep up....................
 
Thanks for all of the great suggestions and calls...
It turns out the small window (2 X 2?) open at the top and bottom (it has a small screen) has done the trick...I had sheets on the hearse to keep dust off and so far that hasn't been an issue. The small building has only this small window in it. It has a dropped ceiling made out of particle board, which shows signs of leakage, but we haven't had any leakage that I know of...
Thanks again...
 
What appears to be "leakage" is more likely condensation that has condensed on the particle board and then dropped to the floor as dropplets... If you have electric out there, put a small window fan at the floor level with a timer to have it go on a couple of times a day. The air movement will help to keep it dry.... You could also move from the muggy South to dry Arizona .................... :specool:
 
I use a Noah Cover on my coach too and leave the windows cracked about 1" year round.

In addition, to help combat any moisture issues I have found products that are very useful:

Here is one type of moisture remover:

www.damprid.com

Good Luck,
-WM
 
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