how NOT to

A

Attila Bethlenfalvy

Donor field Superior. Trial and error.

Thick aluminum side supports bolt to inner framework of rear loading door below waistline; 3 on each side. Rusted solid, can't reach backside nuts either.

Glass held in by 3 inner aluminum moldings; one upper, and vertical side pieces that fit into larger outer. 5 accessible screws on upper came out. 6 accessible screws each vertical side running from outer into inner, all heavily rusted, only 1 of 12 came out. If only one vertical inner molding is removed, there would probably be enough room after cutting/removing glass rubber molding to finagle window out since upper aluminum is already off. Not happening. Crap.

4 rusty bolts on upper outer aluminum structure secures body panel above window. They aren't budging either. Crap.

2 small Sawzall cuts takes off tops of aluminum frames and body panel along with. Progress. Now to slowly, carefully, remove rubber molding and slide glass upward... This is how far glass made it before binding hard.

dsc05268a.jpg


Although curvature wasn't same from top to bottom, removing rubber allowed for full width of window track permitting *just* enough room that it should have sufficed.

Now who is paying attention why this didn't work??? Didn't cross my mind until this point. :pat:
 
Not the reason Kevin.

You're correct though - it was a very tight upward slide. Had the glass not been kept perfectly square, the channel's curvature would have caused it to bind.
 
I think you'll find that the glass is wider on the bottom then on the top. or the curve is different. don't remember off hand why it can't side up. the rear door on the superior is not fun. just try to get the door latch out of one. remember to tighten the bolts to brake them off. all you got to do is get two lower off one side to get enough movement you want one more difficult try putting the middle door glass back in on the 65 - 68 style. took me three tries on the first one

if you got help you can spread them from the top enough to get one side out.
you get to taking one of these apart and you understand why they all leaked. way to many places for water to get in.
 
Inch difference Ed - you nailed it.

Glass width top, 38.5".
Glass width bottom, 39.5".

I did end up making Sawzall relief cuts to driver's side outer aluminum support and fastidiously guided glass out. Was by myself...Superior glass is not fun! Am stockpiling though. ;)

Total rear loading door glass removal time in 95 degree heat with 90% humidity: 2 hours 5 minutes.

Getting faster removing corner glass. Pair off this coach took a svelte 52 minutes.
 
Attila Bethlenfalvy said:
Not the reason Kevin.

You're correct though - it was a very tight upward slide. Had the glass not been kept perfectly square, the channel's curvature would have caused it to bind.
Click to expand...

I don't know how I missed you saying this in your original post. My first guess was wider at the bottom then I changed it. Someday I'll learn not to do that..... maybe
 
The learning curve on glass removal and installation is steep, but the second time it is a walk in the park. Knowing how to take out front door glass with the vent window is difficult unless you know to remove the vent window divider first. Then it comes out quickly.
 
now me I would have tighten the bolts on one side till the snapped and lifted out that piece. old trick in the yard. if it won't come out. real easy to get the broken stud out with the part laying on the bench. if you need to. you cut it up and tomorrow you will need that vary one. you don't and you'll never have a call for one. be sure to label all that glass to year and modale with a yard marking pen.you don't and by next year you'll never remember what is what. a felt pen will wash off if it gets wet. the yellow paint markers will stay for a long time.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top