Flasher Problem on 1972 Pontiac

Still researching the electrical, but it appears my '72 Pontiac Superior has a large Dietz Flasher on the firewall. Not sure what it controls, as I have already had to replace a flasher in the overhead console that was water logged to get the red tunnel lights to flash.

I can't see any other flashing switches so I must be missing something. Perhaps someway to get the high beams to flash as well? Any ideas??
 
is it now wired into anything? if it just hanging there some one changed to a different flasher and left the old one.
 
Still researching the electrical, but it appears my '72 Pontiac Superior has a large Dietz Flasher on the firewall. Not sure what it controls, as I have already had to replace a flasher in the overhead console that was water logged to get the red tunnel lights to flash.

I can't see any other flashing switches so I must be missing something. Perhaps someway to get the high beams to flash as well? Any ideas??
Probably, the Dietz was the original flasher for the roof lights. It may have failed, and someone replaced it with one that they put in the overhead. It would be uncommon for Superior to have placed a flasher there.
 
It is wired, but I haven't checked the circuit. I did find some disconnected wires behind the front right headlight...rather odd I thought. I'll dig some more.
 
The tunnel lights flasher is located behind the overhead panel on my 1978 Superior ambulance. It has 2 flashers that control front and side lights. I did take a look at your overhead roof panel, and it has been destroyed by someone trying to shoe horn in switches that are wrong for that overhead panel. I think that the only way that you will be able to fix it is to replace the center section of the panel. I would unscrew the panel, and then put wire ties around the grouping of wires that go to each switch. Then take lots of pictures, and also make a wiring diagram for each switch. Be careful not to pull any wires off, since you will have hours of work trying to figure them out once that happens. I would also use number and letter wire identifiers. You can purchase them at the electrical supply stores. Label everything, and label your diagrams also. Once you have everything labeled and a schematic made, remove one switch at a time, and reassemble outside of the switch panel, until all switch's are loose, and the panel can be removed. If you need to get new switches, you can find them on eBay. Your original switches were white. I will try to get you a picture of mine this week. I would work on the basic wiring, and forget about the headlamps till you get everything else figured out. You already have enough work ahead of you to keep you busy into the next year. Believe me, when I say that what you think should only take a few minutes, can take a few hours. Go slowly and be very methodical. :thumbsup:
 
Still researching the electrical, but it appears my '72 Pontiac Superior has a large Dietz Flasher on the firewall. Not sure what it controls, as I have already had to replace a flasher in the overhead console that was water logged to get the red tunnel lights to flash.

I can't see any other flashing switches so I must be missing something. Perhaps someway to get the high beams to flash as well? Any ideas??

Here's the flasher I used for my side/rear tunnel lights and used one for the headlights to get them to flash. Old flasher and new flasher. "X" is power in then "L" to the hot side of the light and grounded of course.

Fkasher001.jpg

Fkasher002.jpg


[ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=70Q0clrCn50[/ame]
 
Paul's advice is excellent... even though it came from Paul! :D

Cut wires around the headlights usually mean that at some point, someone decided to add flashing headights (wig-wag) to the unit. Wig Wag headlights were not common on these ambulances, but folks have chosen to "modify" them, as they look cool.:cool:

Wiring diagrams for those cars are available... in fact I may even have something that shows how the tunnel lights were wired. I'll see what I can come up with... wish me luck!:thumbsup:
 
Wiring Diagram

Rick -

I have the diagram and I only see one flasher in the circuit. Can't imagine why one would not simply change it out if it went bad, instead of adding one in the overhead console. Must have been an add on headlight flasher (hope so) and I'll work on it...right after the water pump, engine flush, and oil sludge removal prescription from Paul!

Thanks...
 
Rick -

I have the diagram and I only see one flasher in the circuit. Can't imagine why one would not simply change it out if it went bad, instead of adding one in the overhead console. Must have been an add on headlight flasher (hope so) and I'll work on it...right after the water pump, engine flush, and oil sludge removal prescription from Paul!

Thanks...

If you think that someone added one to the overhead console compartment, then try fishing just one wire up there. It was installed there by Superior, not some previous owner. The one in the engine compartment most likely was the add on flasher. In my limited experience, I have only found two types of flashers that have been installed by the factory on a Superior ambulance. The motor driven Cole Hersee, and the Baader Brown unit that looks like a squatty soup can with a tin cover, and has a few terminals sticking out of it. I am not saying that Superior couldn't have used a Dietz, but I just haven't seen one.
If I were doing this project, I would determine which circuits are still working properly, and map them. Then take the next circuit that isn't working, and attempt to get that one working. I alway go on the assumption that it is a simple fix first, by checking for voltage at the switch, and then seeing if there is voltage at the location where the appliance is that the switch controls. Many times, you will find a bad fuse, burned out light bulb, or just a poor ground. In the case of electrical motors, many times it has just frozen from not being used, and will just take a little lubrication and coaxing to get it turning. Don't cut any wires, and don't jump any circuits. If you experience cut wires, try to determine where they go and where they are from. Then put them back together. If the factory wanted to have blind cut wires, they would have done in where you can't see. I also have proof that both Superior and Miller Meteor did have some wires that were not used and cut off at the ends. I have never found a wire that was just cut in half and left untaped. That is the work of an amateur electrician. With patience, you will get everything working, but it will take a lot of time. I spent over 20 hours trying to get the horn siren circuit working on my 1963 Pinner, because it was a compound problem of someone cutting wires, and a ground failure within the steering column. It was only after I had gotten everything back the way it originally was wired, that I found the steering column problem. The person that didn't understand the problem used the solution of cutting wires, and tapping into other wires in an attempt to resolve the problem. It didn't work, and their final resolve was to put a horn button in a hole on the dash, along with a couple of toggle switches hanging down and taped together.
 
This is what the overhead console in my 1978 Superior looks like. The switches all look the same on the front side, however, they are lots of different configurations on the back side where the wires go. In the last picture, you can see how the panel is fed power, and in the top left corner of the picture, you can barely see one of the two flashers that work the flashing roof lights or as they are more commonly known.. tunnel lights. :D
 

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