Federal 28 Siren ?'s

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Paul Yates

Hey guys!

I'd like to tap, once again into the wealth of knowledge here. I have the opportunity to purchase this Federal Model 28 siren.

I'm not hip to this part of professional cars. I know hardly anything about the lights and siren, as i mostly deal with hearses, but i am very anxious to verse myself in this aspect as well. It appears to have been crudely painted black. I assume it was probly chrome. It does work and is very LOUD.

What would one expect to pay for such a critter? Any thing i should know about this particular model? Thanks so much for any input guys

Paul

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It actually doesn't look like it was a chrome siren. Those sirens (without the "bullet" on the back) were designed for under-hood mounting. As such, they were factory painted, usually black or gray. So it's not as bad as you'd think.

As for price, check e-bay for recent sales of Federal Model 28 sirens. Without checking, my guess would be around $100-$150.
 
Here's a picture from a 1949 catalog. In later years the color was changed to hammertone gray and the mount was adapted for demountable use. The motor is the same as is used in Federal's big-boy "Q."

Steve's correct in saying that yours was not chrome-plated. While Federal's designation for yours is a Model 28, the chrome-plated version (which includes motor cover) is a Model 66.

As Steve said, they were popular for underhood applications; however, FDNY used a potful of them roof- and bumper-mounted in the '60's/'70's.

Steve is also correct in his value assessment. You might consider having a motor-repair expert assess its internals before purchase.
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Thanks guys, and to those that sent me PM's, for all the great info. I'm working out a price as we speak, might go pick it up this evening. Now, would anyone care to try and tell a complete NEW-BIE how one would wire one of these bad boys?

Thanks guys!

Paul
 
The nut/bolt protruding from the motor is the positive lead. Use 4-gauge (sometimes called "No. 4" or "battery") cable with appropriate ring connector. Unit is grounded when mounted to the vehicle, assuming it's mounted to a metal surface, which is mounted to a metal surface, etc. Fuse appropriately.

If testing with a power source other than a vehicle (battery charger or such), attach the positive lead to the aforementioned nut/bolt & secure the negative lead to the siren's base. Ensure the siren is secure before applying power, and keep fingers away from the rotor.
 
Jack Ramsey said:
The nut/bolt protruding from the motor is the positive lead. Use 4-gauge (sometimes called "No. 4" or "battery") cable with appropriate ring connector. Unit is grounded when mounted to the vehicle, assuming it's mounted to a metal surface, which is mounted to a metal surface, etc. Fuse appropriately.

If testing with a power source other than a vehicle (battery charger or such), attach the positive lead to the aforementioned nut/bolt & secure the negative lead to the siren's base. Ensure the siren is secure before applying power, and keep fingers away from the rotor.
Click to expand...

Ok. Thank you. Seems straight forward. So the siren is grounded by its houseing, and power is applied by the pole on the side. Now will i require a solenoid for this set up? If not, what would i look for as a switch? Like a push button? I assume it will need to be capable of a certain amount of amps.

Thanks so much again.
 
Sorry I forgot to mention the solenoid. The answer is "yes." Can't remember the amp-draw on the 28. Anyone? I prefer a momentary-contact foot-operated switch. www.colehersee.com can help with the solenoid & switch. Forgot about this picture provided by a kind soul on another board.
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that relay

The relay in the picture looks like the starter realy on my 65 Ford Galaxie. Around $20 at most auto parts stores. Used to be 6 bucks but times have changed. Since the motor on the siren is pretty much a starter motor a Ford realy should work.
Mike
 
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Thanks Mike! Thats good to know. I have some ford starter solenoids laying around, so i should be in business!

Thanks again so much for the info guys. Nice to have a resource like this to make an informed decision to purchase something somewhat obscure. Thanks again!

Paul
 
Yikes! I wasn't expecting it to be that much. Will i be OK with just momentary (1-3 second) bursts with my stock 69' alternator? I'm not to hip on wiring and amps and volts etc. I'm not gonna make it scream, just every once in a while for fun. Much thanks Jack, you've been overly helpful.
 
Jack Ramsey said:
The nut/bolt protruding from the motor is the positive lead. Use 4-gauge (sometimes called "No. 4" or "battery") cable with appropriate ring connector. Unit is grounded when mounted to the vehicle, assuming it's mounted to a metal surface, which is mounted to a metal surface, etc. Fuse appropriately.

If testing with a power source other than a vehicle (battery charger or such), attach the positive lead to the aforementioned nut/bolt & secure the negative lead to the siren's base. Ensure the siren is secure before applying power, and keep fingers away from the rotor.
Click to expand...

I always just put them on the garage floor, hook up a set of jumper cables, put my foot (firmly) on the motor end and torch 'er off. Just remember to keep your foot on the motor until it slows waaaayyy down, or you're gonna be chasin' it around.
 
tips from Russ

Russell,
You do know that some of these tips you should keep to yourself. And then set up a camera in the garage to get the next funniest home video.
Lights, camera, siren, I can see it now....
Mike
 
Contact Jim Vowell on here, he is good at what heavy duty silonid to get and what to get for a foot switch. I paid him and he got the correct parts and sent them to me for the Federal C-6 on my coach. Ive hit it hard many many times since the install in 2005 with no issues.
 
I happen to know a thing or two about this subject. I've seen a couple of things on this thread that I would never do.

Using jumper cables on a siren just leaves arc burns that someone else will have to clean off. Low voltage from a bad connection will leave burns on the commutator. I just finished a repair for a guy who thought he could use a battery charger to try out the siren I had just restored for him.

Automotive starter solenoids are only rated for intermittent duty. Use a serious solenoid, such as Cole Hersee 24059 or the Essex equivalent. The floor button would be a Cole Hersee 9060 (tall) or 9183 (short). Newer vehicles use a Linemaster 491S floor switch.

Federal has always made a habit of being "optimistic" about current draw. The ammeter on our test bench shows a current draw of 90-95 amps for a 28/66. This is right at the top end of 4 gauge capacity. I use 2 gauge for Federal installs.
 
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