Can not open passenger side door

Give it a hard tug from the outside or a strong push with your foot from the inside. When there are no rubbers on the door, they get stuck on the lock pin. Make sure that the lock button is up, and that someone has depressed the button on the outside of the door. It just needs some persuasion!
 
Paul Steinberg said:
Give it a hard tug from the outside or a strong push with your foot from the inside. When there are no rubbers on the door, they get stuck on the lock pin. Make sure that the lock button is up, and that someone has depressed the button on the outside of the door. It just needs some persuasion!
Click to expand...
No luck. Still locked.
 
As i said on Facebook. The lock cam is stuck half way. It did so because the outside lock has been removed and the dirt has built up in the latch. That cam is spring loaded and has to go full over center to lock or unlock all it does id move the plunger off the grip for the latch. Thats were it is now just missing the trip. Reach in and move the out side lever up and dow will put it back were it goes and you can trip the latch. Then remove the latch clean it up and re lube the pivot points on all the levers. Then check the latch to see if the lip is rolled over putting pressure on it. If it is you can cut the roll off with a hack saw blade. Then when you get this door done do the other 4. The reason this door did this is because the out side key way was removed. so nothing was holding up the rod. You shut the door and it fell down. the old grease and dirt trapped the lever half way. They can do it with. The lock in also if ite gimme enough. Thats why i use the slick 50 spray on the pivot rods when i lub them. The white grease will collect dirt and gum up. You can beat on it kick it sprak the hell out of it with penetrat and might jar it locked and then get it back unlock with the inside rod. But here just reach in and work the key rod will put it in position.
 
John ED Renstrom said:
As i said on Facebook. The lock cam is stuck half way. It did so because the outside lock has been removed and the dirt has built up in the latch. That cam is spring loaded and has to go full over center to lock or unlock all it does id move the plunger off the grip for the latch. Thats were it is now just missing the trip. Reach in and move the out side lever up and dow will put it back were it goes and you can trip the latch. Then remove the latch clean it up and re lube the pivot points on all the levers. Then check the latch to see if the lip is rolled over putting pressure on it. If it is you can cut the roll off with a hack saw blade. Then when you get this door done do the other 4. The reason this door did this is because the out side key way was removed. so nothing was holding up the rod. You shut the door and it fell down. the old grease and dirt trapped the lever half way. They can do it with. The lock in also if ite gimme enough. Thats why i use the slick 50 spray on the pivot rods when i lub them. The white grease will collect dirt and gum up. You can beat on it kick it sprak the hell out of it with penetrat and might jar it locked and then get it back unlock with the inside rod. But here just reach in and work the key rod will put it in position.
Click to expand...
I'll give that another try this evening. I tried looking at it yesterday with an endoscope and noticed that the entire mechanism was very gritty. that must be the sand from the sandblasting they did at the bodyshop.

I am going to have to find a video on how locks work to get a clear picture in my head of the mechanism.
 
No the tab that the out side lock goes around. the rolled piece of steel pointing out. That is the strong point of the locking mechanism. You should be able to feel it go all the way in and out. All it does is pop up the trip rod so that it will no longer punch the trip. The man that said use a can of wd-40 was not all wrong if it is full of sand. Any good penetrating oil will help flush it out. If you have a presser washer after you let that soak hit it with that to free things up. If you look at it while you work the lock rod you will see just how that should work. You can clearly see the pin i'm talking about in your video. But now remember if this one is bad you got 4 more to go. This is the first thing i remove before striping or painting a jam. I hate a latch that has been painted over. 6000 dollar paint job and you can't at least tape off the latch!! Will we all have our pet peves.
 
But then if its the trip rod that is stuck out of alinement with the trip the penetrent and working the lock will be the only way to get it to drop in place.
 
Here is a video of the locking mechanism of the passenger-side loading door.


I'll WD40 the hell out of it, let it soak for about an hour, giggle it, and again. If that does not work, I'll hit it with the air hose. and if that does not work I may take the pressure washer to it as you suggest.
 
In order to take out the mechanism to clean it properly I will have to remove the window frame out of the door because as you saw in the previous videos, the locking mechanism is sandwiched between the door and the slider channel.

I found that if I loosen up the mechanism I can lock it and unlock it without any problems, however once I tighten it up again the same thing happens again.

I noticed that there is quite a gap in the mechanism where the striker bolt connects with the Jaws of the locking mechanism. Maybe that is the problem and it just needs to be replaced altogether.

PXL_20220607_003351693.jpg
PXL_20220607_003331197.jpg

The first picture is from the passenger door, the second one from the driver's door.

One thing is for sure, I'm glad that this happens here in the driveway, not somewhere on the road away from home.
 
Take it out soak it. Get all the over spray off from it. what you need to see is between the latch and the door frame. Right were you will find the sand and paint have waded up. Now you might get by with just taking the screws out of the glass frame and pushing it one side or the other to wiggle it out and get it to drop to the bottom. But if you want to change the outer anti rattle strip it best done with the glass out and the frame pulled. After the first 100 it's not that big a chore. But i have found that the presser washer on the jam side will most of the time clean it out to work. Loosen the screws up for best effect. Get as much paint removed as you can work the rods back and forth to help sossen up the junk. Glad you found the way to trip the latch with a wire. Really makes you shake your head when you get it on the right spot and so little push gets it to clik.
 
The door mechanism was easy to take out after I figured out the clip that holds the inside door handle to the mechanism lever. I'll post a picture of it when it is all cleaned out.

All I had to do is roll the window all the way up, took out the 2 bolts holding the glass frame arm in place, and the 3 screws holding the mechanism in place. A little wiggle and the mechanism came out without any problems. Everything is working as it should when bench tested.

It will now dip in a cleaning solution overnight. I'll give it a good rinse and lubricate it tomorrow and will see if this fixes the problem.

Psg Door Mechanism 01.jpgPsg Door Mechanism 02.jpgPsg Door Mechanism 03.jpgPsg Door Mechanism 01.jpgPsg Door Mechanism 02.jpgPsg Door Mechanism 03.jpg
 
Suggest that you remove all the white paint from the lock mechanism, and only lubricate the moving parts to keep the rest of the latch from attracting grime in the future.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top