Alternative Alternator????

The answer is a conditional "yes".. Any alternator can be used, if you can get it properly mounted so the belt will be in alignment with the drive pulleys to the alternator. If you can't get the alignment correct, the belts will have a very short life. I wouldn't change the alternator on your car to something that is different. If yours needs repairs, and the shop that it is at, is having difficulty finding parts, I would then look for a replacement. They were used for many years, and used alternators of the same type as you have are available with a little searching..
 
Is there a reason you dont want to stay with the altenator that your car came with?
Why don't you just send your altenator out to a rebuilder. trying to convert to a different altenator is going to be costly getting the mounts and wiring converted, not to mention that when your done, you will have hacked up you car while asking for complications for no reason.
 
Bruce Biancalana said:
Is there a reason you dont want to stay with the altenator that your car came with?
Why don't you just send your altenator out to a rebuilder. trying to convert to a different altenator is going to be costly getting the mounts and wiring converted, not to mention that when your done, you will have hacked up you car while asking for complications for no reason.
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If you look at this thread http://www.professionalcarsociety.org/forums/showthread.php?t=8072&highlight=alternator his is getting rebuilt.
 
My alternator is being rebuilt costing about $300. My thought is why deal with these old alternators when you can get a new one for under $100 providing it kicks out the same amount of amps handling my electrical load. I'm surpised I'm the only one to ever have the tension pully go bad and had to go out and find a bearing for it.

If something new is better, works the same, and is cheaper, then why not. As far as changing it from it's original form, that sounds good but that doesn't get you more value when it comes time to sell.

I was told today I could get my A/C system rebuilt back to original for about $2800 yet I can get a brand new total system for under $2500 with 134.a freon and in a system designed for it, or go with an under the dash system for less than a grand.

To me, as long as it cools it doesn't matter.
 
Richard Vyse said:
My alternator is being rebuilt costing about $300. My thought is why deal with these old alternators when you can get a new one for under $100 providing it kicks out the same amount of amps handling my electrical load. I'm surpised I'm the only one to ever have the tension pully go bad and had to go out and find a bearing for it.

If something new is better, works the same, and is cheaper, then why not. As far as changing it from it's original form, that sounds good but that doesn't get you more value when it comes time to sell.

I was told today I could get my A/C system rebuilt back to original for about $2800 yet I can get a brand new total system for under $2500 with 134.a freon and in a system designed for it, or go with an under the dash system for less than a grand.

To me, as long as it cools it doesn't matter.
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Just remember you get what you pay for and cheaper is not always better. I would go with a quality rebuild for $300 and never worry about it again, than buy a cheap $100 one and end up replacing it again in a couple years.
Just my opinion from experiance.
 
I got to side a little with Richard on this. after all this small standard size GM replacement alternator puts out more power then the boat anchor that weighs a ton one that is only a 100 amp that came with the car. you can get parts for it cheaply and it will go one with standard brackes if you can find them. every hearse has the same size aulternator on it. that beig said it ain't right. but if just like the electronis points set up if i could put this small aulteranator in the case of the big one so you could not see it I would. there are right now a lot of the small car type being put in old generator cases and installed in 20s cars in every car show to day. the look like the old and operate like new. but to do this might take more then the 300 to fix the origional one. just to change it over proberily would be a wash. here is thediferencei the 472 on the 69 ambulance and 68 combo. the combo used the standard gm aulternator. there is a lot tt have to change over just to put a cheaper aulternator on. but if you could hollow out the old one and put the new inside it then you would have something better the it was but the same. the cost would not be cheaper either way.
 

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There is nothing wrong with converting to a modern alternator Most modern ones are more efficient and steal less HP. Also they are internally regulated so no external regulator. Paul is 100% right pulley alignment is important for belt and bearing life. This can usually be done shimmng with washers and a keen eye. In todays world 100 amp is a bit wimpy I would go with at least 140 amp. Just a question what does a $3000.00 AC rebuild consist of? Seems to me to be the rip off of the month.
 
I didn't realize that correct 145 amp alternators were that difficult to come by. I have access to 4 of them that have been rebuilt at $100 each.
 
this is of course the key. buck verse bang on a car you drive occasionally. if one can't find a replacement or get the one you have repaired at a decent price then replacing it with a new one is in order. but still if you can't mount the new one with out altering everything and buying a lot of extra stuff it's not practical either. original equipment is best as it fits and some one else has done all the engineering. the last thing you need is the Red Green approach to solving a problem. before I would invest in a new one I would run out to the locale yard and get a used one to see if I could mount it on the car using the existing brackets. a few modifications may be enough. but my luck never runs that way. if I just had this one 600 piece of equipment I could do it. then a alternator with a supertine belt pulley has a different shaft then a grooved pulley. most of your hot rod stuff is based on a complete swap of everything using there mounts and pulley set up
 

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not for a poncho but I do for a oldsmobile. they basically used a 1/4 flat plate with ears to bolt to the engine and the tags up spaced for the alternator. really looked like some high school shop project. but that was the military one. it used a 100 amp motorola.

I'm guessing that the font mount on the replacement is the same as your factory one and will align with the pulley OK. the size looks to be factory or a little smaller.
that would mean you only have to deal with the rear mount eye. gm would use a long bolt and spacers if you new one comes out in between them you can do that. or is it needs to go forward to aline right . as that is only the pivot as long as the front will come up tight and the bolt fits the eye you don't need anything in the rear it it's between the factory ones.

if its behind the rear eye a spacer would be help full to keep the rear nut in place.

as I can't see what you have at all it's hard to make a recommendation. but keep in mind all you need on the bottom is a pivot the top strap is were it's locked in place. but prober spaces so that you can draw the pivot rod up tight and it dosent let the ault slide forward or back. an nibble and a hack saw will make the spaces .

but with a little though you should be able to adapt what you have to what you want.
 
will the replacement one line up? pull the old one set the mount hole were the old one was and slide the bolt back in. put the belt on and see. if the alternator lines up and the adjustment arm will go on. all you need to do is figure out your spacers. I'm guessing that the new one may be back a bit as the mounts are thinner and you may need to space it forward but that's a fit by trial kind of thing. I have seen stacks of washer used as spaces also. remember all the bottom mount is is a pivot it doesn't need to be a solid piece to pivot on the bolt. it can do so in front of or behind were the original one was on that mount. worse case scenario would be one would have to trim that lower mount so the new one will slid back. but until on get yours apart and try to place the 100 amp on no one can say what you need to do to get it to align and tighten with proper tension. looks to me to be a doable thing.
 
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here is what I'm looking at. I'm guessing again but I would think the 100 amp one may be just a little smaller is outside dimensions.
 

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Well...

John ED Renstrom said:
not for a poncho but I do for a oldsmobile. they basically used a 1/4 flat plate with ears to bolt to the engine and the tags up spaced for the alternator. really looked like some high school shop project. but that was the military one. it used a 100 amp motorola.

I'm guessing that the font mount on the replacement is the same as your factory one and will align with the pulley OK. the size looks to be factory or a little smaller.
that would mean you only have to deal with the rear mount eye. gm would use a long bolt and spacers if you new one comes out in between them you can do that. or is it needs to go forward to aline right . as that is only the pivot as long as the front will come up tight and the bolt fits the eye you don't need anything in the rear it it's between the factory ones.

if its behind the rear eye a spacer would be help full to keep the rear nut in place.

as I can't see what you have at all it's hard to make a recommendation. but keep in mind all you need on the bottom is a pivot the top strap is were it's locked in place. but prober spaces so that you can draw the pivot rod up tight and it doesn't let the ault slide forward or back. an nibble and a hack saw will make the spaces .

but with a little though you should be able to adapt what you have to what you want.
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...I had it all apart, and ended up sending the alternator back as I figured it was not correct. I later found these old pictures and still think this was someones attempt as well with the wrong brackets. I do not believe I have the old spacer bars, but could easily find something similar.

The 100 amp is back on the car, and I am going to use it as I continue to the research. I think you are correct and I may have to go back to the spacer bars.
 
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