70 cb

John ED Renstrom

John ED Renstrom

PCS Member
Super Site Supporter
For those of you that have been wondering how we are coming on getting this 70 back together. We have just about gotten all the electrical back together. The lights are in and the siren are on. everything works now as it should. Right now the body is sealed up all the glass is in place I had to rebuild the grommet for the rear glass and found the back seals off from the steel rubber. They were a little smaller than the original but worked out ok. Heater AC is still a mystery but it is all back to stock form. We get the dash back together we can see if it will hold a charge been different working on a painted car. But we are working around that problem ok. The bumper did get back from the place in Minnesota. I need to make a trip down to Neb to pick them up. If anyone knows of windshield moldings let me know. 1965-70 commercial glass would be the same as any GM make.


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Matt Mahutga said:
How do I remove them from the car without damaging them?
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You will need a windshield removal tool that slips under the molding and when you rock it up and down, it will release the clips that hold the molding to the glass. If the glass is still good, you have to be experienced to remove the molding because you run the risk of chipping the edge of the glass which will lead to the glass cracking. You start by removing the lower windshield molding that goes across the bottom of the glass, and once that it off, you start at the bottom to release the molding from the clips.
 
Ok we'll see if any of these will come threw. First picture is a 12 buck set from Wal-Mart. I had to do the online to get them. But it has the nessary tools for junk yard shopping or shade tree work. Next is the clip in question. There are 3 a side about every 6 inches around. if the trim is tight lift the inside edge with a flat blade enough to wiggle the tool in place a alternative tool would be a cotter key puller. By rocking the tool you draw the clip in releasing the clip from the outer edge of the molding. Best to start at the bottom and work up but in reality get the easy one first. Next we see a molding off a 67 caddy upside down next to the clips then on the car. The last is how CB ground the corners to fit the olds cowl. This one has a finish piece to cover the end and the lower molding. The only car i have see with that arrangement. The pps picture is were I'm at finishing up one the other mans attempt to put in a painless wire harness.IMG_20220826_113950_burst_01.jpgIMG_20220826_114008_hdr.jpgIMG_20220826_114121_hdr.jpgIMG_20220826_114156_hdr.jpgIMG_20220826_114312_hdr.jpgIMG_20220826_114410_hdr.jpgIMG_20220826_120055_hdr.jpgIMG_20220826_120130_hdr.jpg
 
Paul Steinberg said:
You will need a windshield removal tool that slips under the molding and when you rock it up and down, it will release the clips that hold the molding to the glass. If the glass is still good, you have to be experienced to remove the molding because you run the risk of chipping the edge of the glass which will lead to the glass cracking. You start by removing the lower windshield molding that goes across the bottom of the glass, and once that it off, you start at the bottom to release the molding from the clips.
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Winshield has a crack. The car is unfortunately toast. I only care about removing them without damage to the trim. I would rather see the parts help another pro car. Thank you for the info. I will order up a set of tools and do my best to remove the trim. Again, thank you.
 
If the car is toast, then you can push a flat-bladed screwdriver between the molding and the A-pillar which will push the clips toward the center and bend them. You keep working from the bottom to the top to get the moldings off. This is what I would do when at the junkyard and didn't have the proper tool to release the clips. I was careful not to pry on the stainless moldings. No question about the tool is the best and fastest way, but when you are at the junkyard, you have to get the job done one way or the other.
 
Paul Steinberg said:
If the car is toast, then you can push a flat-bladed screwdriver between the molding and the A-pillar which will push the clips toward the center and bend them. You keep working from the bottom to the top to get the moldings off. This is what I would do when at the junkyard and didn't have the proper tool to release the clips. I was careful not to pry on the stainless moldings. No question about the tool is the best and fastest way, but when you are at the junkyard, you have to get the job done one way or the other.
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That is the reason for the 10 buck set. I got this set because I thought I had lost my others. But Matt send me your address I'll trade you the set of tools for the moldings.
 
You're a brave man Ed, great job as usual.
Abe Bush said:
This might be a dumb question, but didn't you already have yours re-done like 3 or 4 times already Richard? Or maybe it's an annual thing (or you're hiding a gem of a barn find no one knows about!)
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It need the Ed touch to make it right. Needs sanded down to the metal and painted correctly. I love MACCO but hopefully Ed can fit me in.
 
I mean just look at this wiring mess. Who in their right minds knows how to work on this stuff. Ed can! If he does my Lifeliner it might drive him to never do another pro-car again...
 

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Richard Vyse said:
You're a brave man Ed, great job as usual.

It need the Ed touch to make it right. Needs sanded down to the metal and painted correctly. I love MACCO but hopefully Ed can fit me in.
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I gotcha, I just thought maybe you were hiding a M-M Guardian that no one knows about and were keeping it top secret until Ed gets it restored back to original factory condition! :wowguy::alien:
 
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