rubbed a little more on the hood and cleaned up a spot or two. it looks better as it cures
63 Pinner Hightop
- Thread starter John ED Renstrom
- Start date
so today we started picking up our mess in the back door frame. I made a mess putting the weather seal in place the attempted to clean it up with laquear thinner. we need to move the I guess it will be here two-tone line anyway. then cut some strips of the flooring to shim the tops of the doors with. they all leak a little except where I shimmed it before. bite the Bulit and get her done. I'm having a bad reaction to one of the drugs that have me on. think we narrowed to down the Jardins. not lasting to long before my legs give out. but with luck this too shall pass. yes, I'm not taking it anymore. but we did for about 4 years.
getting the rest of the doors sealed and finished up on the back door jam. found out where the driver's door was leaking just not why it broke loose. but the dirt under the weather strip doesn't lie. looks like not enough glue on it. getting close to finishing up on this one. found the holder for the curtain rod wasn't doing it job the spring must be weak. when you shut the door, it pops off. replace it with one of the leftovers.
discovered mu camera got bumped into manual focus. hop it's better now. put the rest of the back door together and made sure all the doors would close after adjusting the weather stripping. we'll water test them later. then took another stab at the hood and stop. I'm taking Paul's advice (don't tell him it was always plan B) and let's sand it down and shot it again. they told me 3000 grit was the way to go they are 10 bucks a sheet in a box of 15. crazy and didn't work. may for a small spot. they will but not the whole hood. do used the 400 grit and worked it down. do matter how carful you are you cut threw some place. se when we picked them up we got that spot that was driving me nuts on the left side of the cowl. the hood was tight and down and the normal over spray did not get it there like the right. every time you opened the hood you could see a streak of primer not sure what I was fighting but suspect it was scratches under the coat of clear we put on. but you only learn but trying. I'll know better next time. the shot of the hood with the dark places they are spots that didn't get sanded on this attempt. but cleaning it off we could find then easily
I would sand the top of the fender to the molding and shoot it both at the same time. The molding will hide any differences in paint shade. I usually will sand down to the primer and start over. You have too thick a layer of paint, and the engine heat will cause cracks in the finish that you will not be able to sand out.
one more and a shot of our overnight guest. the lip is a rough enough place we cut threw a lot so colored it in across .
you would be correct if one was shooting Lacquer, but this poly stuff is like spraying rubber. I don't know if it ever gets hard. but we did 400 it off till we could not find any shiny spots the ran over it with 1500. backed the car out today after dumping a couple Gl. of gas into it and let it run to warm up well. it hasn't done that since I moved it over here to start working on it. getting the timing set Shure helps it start. gave it a good soap and water wash while it ran and hosed out the garage. its a cool damp day today prefect. so covered up the car taped things off and decided why wait. 71 in the building,59 outside we are ready lets go. gave it two layers in a crosshatch pattern and cleaned up and walked out. we did better this time. by the way no water inside either!! 
been picking up sone of the small stuff while we are playing great uncle for the family twins graduation made it over to Douglas Wy yesterday for the party. the only damp cold day they have had this spring. but the hood came out good
more excitement then I have had in a long time, got my teeth cleaned yesterday today got to see my Parm tec. (the pill pusher) and then got my bones cracked then did labs. hope they find out what is bothering me. so this afternoon we swapped batteries in the red Pinner. had the parts house put the one in the car on their miracle charger to see if they can bring it back to life. don't know why it went dead but did it while we were painting the hood. noting I have here would put a charge in it. then we put the filler strip back into the drip rail. that went better than I thought it would. combined some I had here with some off the car that had shrunk up to fill it all in. funny how the little things you really notice. layed it out in the sun to soften up the used an orange stick to slip it in
found out why the battery was stone dead. as I thought one of the cabinet light had popped on. the lower door by the jump seat. was the one. nothing I had here would bring up the battery. this solid-state stuff has to have enough current flow to read polarity, or it will not turn on. save me from smart things. they were able to bring it up at the parts store they sell new and used batteries down there. wonder where they get there used ones? this 800 cranking amp rated battery now has 900 amps to give. so today we put the second latch back on the lower door. funny how you can spend so much time on something so simple. the striker in aluminum. it was pop riveted on and was in rough shape. it's on backwards as it need to fit flush. so when I mangled things back around and tied to pop rivet in in place I discovered that we needed steel rivets. went to three stores in town, not a box of 1/8 inch steel rivets to be found in fact no steel rivets at all. so we used machan screws and nuts. blind spot 3 mounds had to space out the striker to move it back. but fumbled our way through it. it now holds the door tight enough to trip the switch. that's all that counts. the last thing to do is get the back porch put on and this one can go home. got my home sweet home sign back together . it made for Squair nails form the house I grew up in built in the 1890s.
got a start at the back step. there is no evidence as to hot it was attached. just a set of holes in the original bumper for the support straps. just a couple old pictures showing it hanging on the rear but no detail. so we are winging it. as for size and manner of attaching it. decided to hang it off the rear body support and above the tailpipes. we can use a surround of angle to stiffen it up. the 1/4 inch aluminum panel id Faily stout and our size will not be that large only a set to help crippled people in. so it's hang a set of bolts with big washers on top to support the front we did get at least that done and test fitted this afternoon. you might notice we had to reposition the license plate as it hung down under the bumper. and trim the big washers to fit into the ledge. we'll spit that plate just so about 8 inches stick out past the bumper.
That isn't the original rear bumper, so the holes you mention must be from the Chrysler factory when the bumper was stamped. It was made of expanded steel with aluminum edging around the outer edge. It got scrapped just a couple of weeks ago. Didn't know there was any interest in it. I have a used engine radiator that is also destined for the salvage yard, along with a lot of other car parts that I no longer have the cars they go to. Can't keep everything forever, and expect someone else to clean up the mess after you are gone.
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Yes knew that I have an original bumper that Nick got from the man you got the car from. I gather he had it in his garage. it is rather rusty on the back side. haven't decided just how we are going to put the stabilizer for the bake side on yet. I'm still working on the front. we did make some headway on that today. got the plate split that took a little time. still using that old B&D jigsaw I bought in the early 70s when I got back from the service. I wonder if any of this power tools I have not will still work after over 50 years? got the holes drilled, cleaned up around them and things hung on. now to get it adjusted and the boarder in place. interesting piece to wrestle by yourself. but we are winning.
I was hoping not to half to but in order to get thing tightened up we had to pull the bumper. sure, a lot easier to R&R with the step there to rest it on. got the nuts all tight and flush on the bottom with a full nut use the lock tight on the top ones and lock washers on the bottom. I didn't see the cropped picture till later, so we have a piece of angle to tie the strap onto the back side. the original was a U shape. in the rear nothing on the sides. 
finished up the step it sits at 15 inches off the level. so short legg
ed fat people will still need a running start
ed fat people will still need a running start
If i can get this thing to find the picture this is what we were trying to copy for the step.
Kerry Lange
PCS Member
Kerry Lange
PCS Member
Any photos that I have of back when Paul owned the car do not show any rear bumper extension. I dug up a rear shot of a 64 Pinner Chrysler if that helps.
No it wasn't on the car when Paul got it. Nick has a number of pictures when it was in service That show the step on the car and he wanted it on if we could do it.
so while putting on the step I notices this high blister looking spot on the edge of the door. probed it with a pin and it was hard so most likely not rust. but since we need to re-clear the white on top we might as will ease our mind on this spot and 400 the door and re-clear the whole thing. turns out to be a over worked spot of brass. we sanded it and did not re-block it after priming so t looked like an island in the water. got it now. I was replacing the fuel sending unit on my convertible, not going to knock another man's work they might have done things for 100 bucks. if so, they were overpaid on this job. missed sanding, no primer and no paint on the bottom of the quarters. most of us will at least hit it with a hammer before sling filler. but hay I bought it and this job looks like it was done some time in the 80's you cant see the spot I was seeing in the pocture but you could laying do looking up.
