63 Pinner Hightop

[John ED Renstrom]

been running laps to Rapid this month for fallow ups on stuff already done. did the hart DR today for mu pacemaker check tomorrow it's the fallow up on my pt. this getting better is cutting into my work. but we did squeeze in a little after we got back. think a finally got that hatch door back together. I searched for 20 minuets trying to understand where the holes were for the hinges on the body finally checked the molding there riveted to the molding the molding is screwed to the floor. Jack and Tom, I hope you're rolling over laughing. but it's together at last

 

[John ED Renstrom]

I see yesterdays did make it in. just more of the same place

 

[Paul Steinberg]

Those brass pull tabs originally had brass wood screws or brass machine screws securing them, depending on where they were mounted on the car. They were sourced from the era's well-built wooden boats. I had to replace a few that were broken when I had the car. Pinner didn't use rivets on those brass pulls

 

[John ED Renstrom]

Thought is was rather odd.

 

[Paul Steinberg]

You never know what happens after it leaves the stable.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

these rivets were put in a long time ago. but got frustrated today finally understood what is going on the coper spring that keeps the magnet up into the aluminon housing is too weak to hold it up and it drops down sticking to the door. this will not let it grab the latch. so, we will fix that problem tomorrow. that or get a new one. piece work is always a challenge. find a part clean it up put it one and go to the next one. the rubber flooring has yet to arrive so all we can do is get the sides in place. we are getting there. found a new buddy in the shop today. first one I seen this year.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

new day time to correct a few mistakes from yesterday. shimmed behind the magnet to push it out and replace the worn out copper spring. this let the magnet crab the tab. then I had to readjust the bracket for the off switch for the light It braks the ground. I thought it was too high and the cause of the door not latching. the door now stays latch and the switch off. dug around and put flat screws and nuts in place rather than go to town to get shorter pop rivets. all I had here were the aluminon ones they won't hold up. I know it wasn't how Pinner did but I primed the rests for the jump seat. the body man in me just thinks I should. we get the molding for the seat buffed and one tomorrow we can move on to the rear hatch. then it's fix the wiring till the floor rubber gets in.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

had a successful visit with the chiropractor today he got the things the therapist had me doing that didn't work so will. to give her credit it was, I don't like what that's doing so stop it. got the foot well together, almost forgot the band Infront of the cabinets. but saw it in time. check out that first picture of the jump seat in place, see if you can catch what is wrong. too me a bit. but it's right now. the trim was ruff enough on the bass that I had to sand stuff out of it. just went through the grits till I got to 1500 then it polished nicely. that last picture is why I was hoping to get the flooring in before we painted. I have no Idai how or when it happened, I've been in and out of here with a dozen tools a couple hundred times. but we still got touch up. I did lose it all on the floor .

 

[John ED Renstrom]

I got the trim ring 180 out when I opened the sear it faces the left door. but when I flipped the trim around, I could close the gap. the other way it was a 14 inch away from meeting up.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

so now it's the rear hatch we work on. we had a record braking day here at my house it got up to 86 deg today broke the old record by 1 deg it was set in 1910, it's Globel warming I tell you!! but was nice to farm up for a change. cold front moving in tonight no rain the moon is holding it in. got the liner in place and stole enough red stuff to redo the wind lacing they tore off the rear door moving the gurney in and out. think I have only seen one car with a guard in that spot it was a 67 superior. we are going to need to move the light to the front because we put the tine cover over the fill tube. it is strange they didn't hinge the hatch and put on a prop rod. they used a large number of #6 screws in this car. they really snap off easily. View attachment 53554View attachment 53555View attachment 53556View attachment 53557

 

[John ED Renstrom]

here are those pictures. and a couple from the ride up in the hills. Sunday so much timber broken off in the 80+ mph shear wind we had last month kind of unbelievable. the pictures were trees over two foot in dimeter.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

so today I finished up the hatch. you can tell this car was hand built just try to flip the trim around, it just off enough not the be able to do that. went down to find the sill plate and the trim. that is one rough piece. they must have drilled a hundred holes in it trying to keep it on and still drag the gunnie over it. but a little time on the anvil and bench vice it might be usable. the one good thing is we got to shorten some of the wires Criss crossing the floor. another pt appointment in the big city, so not sure what we can do tomorrow. be glad to get this floor done. yes I did put the wood filler under the sill plate. decided that the push in plugs would be best to fill the extra holes right were the water would get sucked in. they had to be for a rubber filler between the body and the bumper.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

made it back in time to do a little bit. found some flooring the stuff I found on mist ton be there as I found the money back in my PayPal account. no note? Menards has a 3ft wide by the foot stuff. the pattern is there just not as rough. I'll check one more place tomorrow, but this might be as good as we can get. see my pounding yesterday knocked a clip out of the molding. good thing I didn't put it all together. we can see if the board hit the stud or not. started cleaning up the last of the trim to get it back in place. all that firewood I saw down yesterday just had to help some!

 

[John ED Renstrom]

spent the whole afternoon putting 3 pieces on. will 4 if you count the lower molding. but we did get the door opening back together. ended up piecing the wend lacing back to gather. but we ended up with a decent looking piece. funny what you can do with a curved needle and some dentil floss. Had to do some trimming on the wood to get it to setttle down. mainly rounding out the edges to clear the welds and bends. once we did that we could get the holes to line up.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

jot started putting stuff back together in the rear. ben looking into the voids so long it looks weird now. yes I do use a claw hammer on cars. but the best thing ever invented is these drill screws.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

So yesterday was another run to Rapid. Monday will be the last for this month. Took the opportunity to lay in supplies for next month. But did manage to get a little done. Finished the cardboard behind the bench seat and played with the wiring. Wiring is always confusing as it a mystery how they did it. I have no lights in back except the add on taillight it the left side wall. If i jump the bundle if red to it i get dome and foot well and the hatch light to come on. That good they will work. But i can't find the other end of bundle of reds under the dash. Found a blown fuse on the inerfender. It's Hooked to a big relay that has power with key on. Jumped that one and i now have cabinet lights one is dim. My jumper wire turned into a heating element fairly quickly so didn't get to figure out why, but i now know were they get power from. Thats a start. I have two wires that were spliced into others that are now dangling under the dash. One was the electric fuel pump. That other unknown but its not red. Found a inline fuse coming off the siren relay with the wire going out missing but no wire loose around there. Will play more today.

 

[John ED Renstrom]

so, we got to the splice every foot and stop, went up and bought a roll wire. each splice had the insulation melted off. I don't know how much resistance had built up over the years, but it must have been a lot. I'll run new up to the fuse block then from the source to the fuse block. I have a few pictures of an easy flying tap. just take a divot out of your main wire slid the icepick threw the strands and fallow up with your wire then solder it in place. you don't need to cut your main wire that way and only need a flag of tape to isolator the wire. we are doing this kind of backward but using the jump box to test each wire before we splice it into the main run to be Shure there is not a short some were. using #12 wire so it heavy enough also. we will address the no power to the dome lights after we get the closet lights to work. I just have to see were the brake in the power run for them is. I can jump them and get them to work. we had to fill the screw holes for the rear sell plate with some gorilla glue. it's an expander so it will force it's self into all the cracks. bottomed out the screws and spun them so we need to get something for them to grab

 

[John ED Renstrom]

the last couple. we have the battery tender on it also

 

[John ED Renstrom]

this new computer is different. did post those last pictures. but today we did get the wiring harness for the cabinet lights and I'm guessing the heater blower. haven't checked that for power but we did connect it to a white wire that went down under the floor better look at that it might be where the big draw is. tackled the rat's nest under the dash. was able to pull most of the excess wire into the engine bay. we can trim them up in there and redo the connections. have two mystery wires. one did go threw the fire wall. the other one has been broken off from were ever it was connected to. we'll do the jump battery thing and see if we can figure it out. my bet is the red one is the spotlight but no Id on the brown one. depending one when I get back from my appointments weather I can finish the wiring up tomorrow. but it Shure looks better than it did. yes, this color is blood red

 

[John ED Renstrom]

got back in time to get the under the hood done. some confusing this still but not to worry about what we lost was the horn. siren still works but not horn the red wire is going up into the add on controls, so I'll look over the horn relay see if that's where I pulled it out of. the spotlight wire is hot with the switch. the confusing part is the blowen fuse and the burnt-up jumper wire. I did not make a repair on anything attached to the new wire we ran. but when I connected it to the terminal no spark and no blowen fuse. ??? I bundled the wires going to the set of fuses together and the wires going to the motor flasher separately. cut about a foot off each wire without making anything tight. the inline fuse with the end pulled out is where I'm going to wire the electric fuel pump power to. the other big wires coming off the battery were for the radios; the fuses have been removed. so the only thing that did work but doesn't now is the car horn. so we are getting there. I can make the dome lights come on by plugging in the jumper wire that might be how it was to be. haven't tried the heater blower yet been too busy on the left side to walk around and test the right yet. all things in due time, that laying on the floor could have been where our short was.