My Christmas present

Here is my Christmas present this year--getting the motor rebuilt in my limo. Have to be able to make it to Daytona Beach next year! Here are a few pics of the fun so far....getting ready to take out the motor.
 

Attachments

  • MotorRebuild 004.jpg
    MotorRebuild 004.jpg
    97.3 KB · Views: 715
  • MotorRebuild 009.jpg
    MotorRebuild 009.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 720
Hope that you don't have any spare parts when you are finished with the job. Who is doing the rebuild of the engine? The place that did Robert Shepard's ambulance did a great job, and it has a lot more power than the original factory stock engine. www.500CID.com
 
You have your free time spoken for awhile now. But i have to ask why the rebuild also. I would say if its not broken dont fix it?
 
Why do you need to rebuild the engine? What happened to it?

There are many reasons, here are just a few. There is a motor noise that has just gotten louder and louder, diagnosed as a possible loose or worn wrist pin. All the gaskets leak like crazy. A rear freeze plug is leaking. A few lifters are presumedly stuck as well. Low compression on one side of the motor. Exhaust manifolds leak something awful, one may be cracked. Just a lot of little things that by themselves are not major, but added up are not good. Some of the things are just easier to fix with the motor out of the car, and since it will be out, might as well have it gone through and get it over with since it is winter. Since I have only had this car a short time, I have no idea how it was treated/maintained by it's former owners as far as oil changes, etc.

I agree that it should be fine for only having 76,000 miles on it, but time and former circumstances have taken their toll.
 
I know the work and time that you put into detailing the engine this last spring, and I am certain that you are going for perfection once again. May I help you spend a few more dollars? I will start with the hose clamps. Click here to learn more.
 
I know the work and time that you put into detailing the engine this last spring, and I am certain that you are going for perfection once again. May I help you spend a few more dollars? I will start with the hose clamps. Click here to learn more.

Thanks, I actually have the right ones, just couldn't locate them in the pile of new parts I had in the garage this spring when I was trying to get the thing back together. I found them after the fact, but was too lazy to put them on.
 
It's out!

After much fun, the engine is finally out. No real problems to speak of, just made a really big mess as it tilted forward--all the rest of the antifreeze left in the block came rushing out. I did find something out though, the flex plate has to be taken off the motor after it is about half way up, so that it can be turned to the right so that the water pump will clear the front cross member thing behind the radiator. A big thanks to Wayne Schoenecker for the use of his mammoth engine puller. Now I can get up in the morning and take it to the shop that is doing the rebuild. Here are a few pics:
 

Attachments

  • 003.jpg
    003.jpg
    97.9 KB · Views: 282
  • 004.jpg
    004.jpg
    98.8 KB · Views: 203
  • 007.jpg
    007.jpg
    97.6 KB · Views: 289
It is a lot easier to remove the water pump before taking it out, rather than dealing with the flex plate, working underneath on your back. While you have the engine out, you should remove the transmission, and clean all the blue paint off of it. I believe that it came from the factory in the raw aluminum finish. I can't say on the dip stick tube, because I have seen them both ways... painted, and raw steel. Also, while you have it out, replace the front seal, rear seal, and the dip stick seal. This also might be a good time to have the steering box resealed, since it is a bear to get out with the engine in the car. There is nothing worse than putting a freshly painted engine in, and then have another component get it greasy and grimy as a result of oil being sprayed around.
While they have the heads off, I would install stainless steel exhaust studs where ever there are studs, and use plain steel nuts or brass nuts. Never use stainless steel studs and nuts, because they will seize together when you try to remove them.
Now, would also be a good time to have the master cylinder and brake booster rebuilt and restored....
Also a good time to change the upper control arm bushings. These are the Achilles heal of the Cadillac front suspension. Make sure to save and reuse the old shock absorber upper washers. They are smaller than the ones that come with the new shocks, and the larger washers cause clicking problems. I know this from experience.
 
Thanks for the input. I am toying with the idea of replacing all the front end busings, etc. while the engine is out. As far as the transmission being painted, I believe it was done when it was rebuilt. There is a tag on the pan that says, "Custom built transmission by Countyline Transmission, Amityville, NY. Does this mean my transmission is haunted?

Oh, I wanted to ask, has anyone had their exhaust manifolds coated, i.e. ceramic or otherwise? And if so, where? I would like to have them coated so they don't rust--I hate to see a nicely painted engine and engine compartment and then see rusty manifolds. I guess I will have them shaved down like Richard is doing so they are level before they get put back on.
 
If you insist on coating them, I would suggest a high temperature paint in cast iron grey, rather than having them ceramic coated. A lot less expensive, and a lot more original looking. Besides, uncoated exhaust manifolds allow for better heat transfer to the outside air. If you wanted, you could use some "lamp black" on them, like they used to use on the old cast iron pot belly stoves...
 
Eastwood has a manifold dressing. cost about 24 bucks for a little jar. you clean the dirt and loos stuff off and rub it in. then the heat bakes it into the cast. works great, one could heat it on the wood stove to set it I have done that to. when your done it looks like a new casting. you can touch it up anytime if you need to. it is something you can do on the car also but a lot easier with them off. spend the time and money to have them planed while they are off.
I know a 100 here a 100 there pretty soon your talking real money. the tyranny shop that redid it was only wanting to be able to Id it as one of there's if it came back. a spray bomb of alumia blast will get it back to color. the places you can see from the top. kind of like you did the engine last year. with the experience there behind you, you have the know how to clean up things before you put it back in. that's were the difference in the points at a meet are. ugly don't hurt the running of it none but a little effort really helps in the pride thing.
 
Sounds like you had a few issues with that motor that would have caused me to rebuild it also. Just too many things wrong that will lead to problems in the long run. Now at least you will know what you have when you are done.
 
Back
Top