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Technical Discussion Forum For the discussion of technical questions about Professional Cars and their repair and maintenance. Posting in this forum is limited to PCS Members and / or Site Supporters. We encourage all website users to become members of the Professional Car Society and / or become Site Supporter.

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  #11  
Old 04-23-2017, 02:53 AM
Walter Suiter Walter Suiter is offline
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John, have ypu ever seena printout of what the minerals in your water are?

Rochester gets water primarily from Lake Ontario, the world's largest sewer when you consider all the cities upstream flushing toilets into it, and we don't even want to talk about the Estrogen level. My bud has a beautiful well, with just a bit of lime. Well is fine for radiators and such, but not good for batteries.

In discussions such as cooling systems I try to keep at the front of my mind the differences in tap water around the country. Therefore I generally recommend distilled or even demineralized water.
A quick and dirty way of evaluating local water is either a steam iron (I hope somebody else remembers those) or a tea kettle. Look at the bottom of either after a few months and you have an idea what is happening in your cooling system.

Ph of the water is also quite important. Our rain water here is so acidic it needs to be buffered before you can use it for much chemistry as we've learned in rust removal tanks over the years. Ground water can go either way depending on well location, which is probably a result of this area being glacial deposit primarily.

Just back flushing with the thermostat removed isn't a bad way to go if you follow the path I outlined above. Vehicle water pumps are really circulaters, so there is plenty of space to blow crud back around the impeller.

If all else fails after you flished and you see squirting from the core or block, course ground black pepper and 3 or 4 eggs whipped up will get you home.

BTW, a lot of this game changes on vehicles made in the 50s. They were built for alcohol, not glycol.
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  #12  
Old 11-08-2017, 09:56 PM
Walter Suiter Walter Suiter is offline
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Update; Cummins is selling 2 varietys of cooling system cleaner, one alkaline and the other acidic.
https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/cleaners

The link offers good information.

My only hesitancy in using the PLUS variety on an old cooling system would be with regard to its property to remove deposited silicates, which may be plugging minor leaks that could become worse. I definitely wouldn't use it on a system where a StopLeak product has been employed.
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Old 11-08-2017, 10:43 PM
Peter Grave Peter Grave is online now
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When I had my 87 Buick Grand National Turbo the other Grand National owners began to have cooling problems. Solution was use strait Anti Freeze (not coolant) and distilled water no minerals NOT tap water problem solved. Remember coolant is just anti freeze with water added its not distilled water just coolant Companies tap water.
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Old 11-08-2017, 10:55 PM
Paul Steinberg Paul Steinberg is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Grave View Post
........ Remember coolant is just anti freeze with water added its not distilled water just coolant Companies tap water.
A while ago, probably 4 or 5 years ago, I contacted a couple of companies that offered premix antifreeze, and asked the question about the type of water that they used. They all said the same thing... "the water is PH balanced at neutral, and it is mineral free".
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:31 PM
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John ED Renstrom John ED Renstrom is offline
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So if it is alkali that add acid and if it is acid they add baking soda to there tap water.
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Old 11-08-2017, 11:41 PM
Peter Grave Peter Grave is online now
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I would love to be a believer BUT!!! And remember over half the cars that go to AMCO don't need a new transmission BUT!!!! I will stick with strait anti freeze and the distilled water just don't trust em.
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