Door lock issue: 93 eagle cadillac

Hey guys.

As I continue to work on this car, a 93 Eagle Cadillac Ultimate, I have another little issue maybe someone can help with.

The rear driver side door won't unlock when I use the power lock button. The passenger side opens up fine. There is no key hole or lock mechanism or door knob on the inside that I can see. It really wasn't a big deal at all until i realized that my spare tire was on that side and there is no way for me to pull it out from underneath the carriage on the passanger side.

Any advice or tips?
 
Do not know if is the same but in my 96 Eagle , there is a knob but kind of hidden.
 

Attachments

  • 20200526_150620_resized.jpg
    20200526_150620_resized.jpg
    92.8 KB · Views: 191
Last edited:
Ok nevermind, i figured it out. however i can pull it in and out but i still can't open the door. i suppose the issue may be the door knob, not the lock then?
 
That button in the front of the door is typical of what is put on many Police Cars. Does the Coach have power door locks? Does the button feel like it is connected to anything? One possible solution if it has power door locks is to move the power lock button through lock and unlock very quickly sometimes this will jar a stuck lock loose also with an assistant do the quick lock button move at the same time moving door button in and out again this may shake it loose. If none of that works I have another more complicated and difficult plan.
 
I'll give it a shot. ill try some combinations of power lock, knob lock and door handle to see if i can get it loose. let ya know what happens thank
 
That button in the front of the door is typical of what is put on many Police Cars. Does the Coach have power door locks? Does the button feel like it is connected to anything? One possible solution if it has power door locks is to move the power lock button through lock and unlock very quickly sometimes this will jar a stuck lock loose also with an assistant do the quick lock button move at the same time moving door button in and out again this may shake it loose. If none of that works I have another more complicated and difficult plan.

Sad to say that didn't work. I am mentally prepared for the complicated method
 
Get a door stop and slip it between the glass and the door skin do it in the center. This will open things up enough so that you can use a light to get the nozzle of the penitent oil to spray the latch down then work the mechanical lock. What happends is it gets gumimed up from lack of use and the lock sticks halfway not letting the trip catch the latch. Let the penetrate have time to soften the old grease.
 
Good possibility that the solenoid has failed, and you need to remove the door panel to replace it. You need to have the door open to remove it, and I have no suggestion how to open it. You might need a body shop or check with the local Cadillac dealer. You can't be the only person to have had this problem.
 
If EDs wedge suggestion does not work I have a more radical method stay away from Cadillac service or other high priced guys who know no more than you. When you press the lock button do you hear the solenoid click? When you try to open the door with the handle does the handle feel like it is connected to anything (the same as the ones that work)? Again does the lock button in the front of the door feel like it connected to anything does it move too easily? None of this is radical method I am trying to establish where the failure is.
 
A lock smith would be my next step. If the simple tricks don't work. My unlock tool bag usual has one that will reach in and trip it.
 
If EDs wedge suggestion does not work I have a more radical method stay away from Cadillac service or other high priced guys who know no more than you. When you press the lock button do you hear the solenoid click? When you try to open the door with the handle does the handle feel like it is connected to anything (the same as the ones that work)? Again does the lock button in the front of the door feel like it connected to anything does it move too easily? None of this is radical method I am trying to establish where the failure is.

That is like saying "Don't go to the Emergency Room", because all those doctors there don't know what they are doing, and are just high priced quacks. There are still some honest people left in this country!
 
Paul I would like to think you are right. But I keep hearing too much against it. The latest, One of Jans senior citizen friends has a 07 Subaru Outback the bigtime Subaru dealer where she bought the car new gives their "Loyal" customers free State Inspection. They called her up "Your car will not pass inspection needs a complete exhaust system cost $3400.00, this on a 13 year old car with 140k miles on it. She called me knowing we have the yard how much for my car for junk? I said knowing the car looked good come by and I will look at it and tell you. She did and the exhaust issue was a slight putt I sent her to a shop about two miles from here the mechanic welded the crack in the head pipe ($25.00) and inspected and emissioned the car for the normal fees. She stopped by the next day with a cake she baked for me and all was well. My point is New Car Dealerships are there #1 to sell new cars everything else is a by product and the older it is (1993) the less they want to bother with it unless they are WELL PAID after all what chance is there that the 1993 vehicle owner will by a new car?
 
I have my own dealership mechanic horror stories as well. They wanted to charge me 700 just to look at the car that had an electrical issue. not actually fix anything. local independent mechanic fixed the electrical issue, and tossed a new starter in it for 500. total.


That being said, I haven't had time to trying spraying some oil down in the door. As far what i feel when I unlock it, whether it is by the power lock button or that knob on the side, it does sound like something is happening It doesn't feel totally loose as you describe. However the doorknob doesn't seem like it is catching on anything .
 
If you can hear the solenoid engaging, it might not be getting enough current due to corrosion at the connection, or the solenoid might just be worn out. One thing that I thought of, was that you could put a folded towel at the lower right hand corner of the door, where the solenoid is located, and while someone pushes the switch to the unlock position, and you give the door a good hard thump with your hand, it might just be enough to get the solenoid to move to unlock the door. The other thing that could be the problem, is if the clip that holds the rod to the lock mechanism has fallen off, and it has the lock mechanism jammed. Once you get the door open, it will probably be an easy fix, but getting the door to unlock is the problem right now.
 
One final thought, have you tried to pull the door open when the window is down. It might not be locked, it might just be stuck. You can also give it a hard shove from the inside.
 
OK I just had a horrible thought the door may NOT be locked, the outside handle may not be connected to the latch. A good test, with the drivers side front door open and the rear loading door open,push the lock button to lock the doors. Compare the pull on each of the rear doors, is the right rear easier than the left? If so the door handle has become disconnected from the latch or at least I think a good chance of it. BTW the other doors being open is a safety from possibly being locked out if there is an electrical problem.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top