Valve cover gaskets

I am getting ready to put the valve covers back on my car and I have a question. I bought new valve cover gaskets, Fel-Pro cork ones--and I am wanting to know if I need to use something like Permatex on either side of them, or just use the gaskets themselves? Thanks.
 
I am not fond of the cork gaskets, since they always seem to leak. There are a lot better products out there that are made of synthetic rubber compounds that stand up to the heat and oil better. If you are going to use the cork ones, then consider Permatex on the valve cover side to hold them in place. Something such as Permatex High Tack will work well. Just don't put anything on the head side, since it will be a problem to remove later one, when the valve cover gaskets start to leak. The nice thing about the rubber compound ones, is they can be re-torqued if necessary, but usually when the cork ones leak, it is time to change them again.
Cadillac issued a service kit that was a heavy piece of steel that had a slight curve to it, and it was placed under the valve cover bolt, and this distributed the torque a more evenly across the entire valve cover area. One thing to keep in mind is that you don't want to over torque the valve cover bolts, and break one off.
 
An echo to Paul's recommendation... the aftermarket hold-downs are the best add-on you could want for stamped steel valve covers. They put pressure across a much wider area. I like to put RTV silocone on the valve cover, smooth it out to a thin layer, & put the gasket on it so it stays & the holes are lined up. Then smear on another thin layer so the gasket also seals to the head but doesn't make a mess.

These hold-downs are available through Summit Racing for only $5.95 per set of 4

pro-66002_w.jpg
 
Thanks guys. I guess I will get the rubber gaskets instead, and give Summit a call. I take it I need 2 sets of the hold-down things? Goal for this weekend is to get the motor painted, then I can start putting things back together! :cheers:
 
I've had good luck with Fel-Pro gasket that are a cork and rubber combination, along with the High Tack stuff by Permatex that Paul suggested. Only thing that caused any small leaks to return is me neglecting to re-tighten the valve cover bolts occasionally.
 
Just count how many bolts hold your valve covers on & jump on Summit's website to order the qty. you need.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66002/
A side note... install them like in the picture above with the edges tipped upwards. Those creases at the ends allow for a slight spring action to put pressure across a wider area. Upside down they are not effective.
You may need slightly longer bolts too :thumb:
 
I echo the comments. but I never got that fancy using the permatex I always used a little silicone on the cover side just to hold them in place when I put them back on. the synthetic ones are better. but the caddies have so many more bolts then Chevy's that the extra hold downs are most likly not necessary.
 
Valve cover leaks are a constant problem. I was underneath my Chrysler yesterday looking at another issue, when I noticed that one valve cover was leaking. It is my opinion that the heating and cooling of the engine will work the bolts loose and then the covers start leaking. I have tightened mine twice since installing them, and each time, I can get almost a full turn on the bolt. As I previously said, you have to be careful not to over tighten them and break a bolt. Just tighten them 1/2 turn before they break. Knowing where that point is, depends on your experiance... :hide:
 
Regarding the extended valve cover hold-downs, I know most people run 4 per valve cover (small block chevy), but in reality two of them aren't really doing much for you. It's pretty rare to get a valve cover leak on the side next to the intake manifold. Usually they leak on the lower side, because that's where gravity pushes all the oil. If you have a leak on the top side of the valve cover you probably have a bigger problem than your valve cover gasket, like too much crankcase pressure.
 
Looking at the location of the holes on the covers, and the way they are shaped, I wouldn't be able to get any of the hold-downs on the manifold side anyway. So, as you said, two on the bottom would most likely be enough. Thanks.
 
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